Paseb

not really, car is running really good,

i just discovered the leak cause i removed the black underneath panel
i shouldnt lol

Paseb

the snap ring will pop out by itself or i need to remove that snap ring that i never seen hehe

rb101

Sorry, snap ring is not the correct term, it's circlip. It sits in a groove on the half shafts and compresses into the groove to slide out of the front diff pumpkin.

Rick
99 996C4
87 944S

Dharn55

When I took my half shafts out they slid right out without much pressure at all. This happened when I was installing my PSS10's. Never saw, or at least noticed any clips.

D_Nyholm

You were able to pull the entire driveshaft out of the front differential without removing any other parts? I wouldn't think there would be enough wiggle room? Or did you have the front suspension off of the car to give you all the room you needed?

DK570

Has anyone replaced their front seals recently? Once the weather gets a little warmer, I will be replacing the fluid, and am considering replacing the seals as well. Two years ago when I last removed the front underbody panel I found a little bit of seepage at both front seals. I had the dealer look at it, they weren't concerned, fluid level was full, (but quoted me anyways I think ~$900 to replace). Since I will be in that area anyways, I figure now might be a good time to replace, and see if the leak is any worse 2 years later.

I'm not sure what's normal for a C4, but the AWD did seem to work this winter. Starting from a dead stop it seemed most noticeable as I thought I could feel the rears spin a few rotations, then the fluid would get warm enough to send more power to the front then it would really grip.

Sometimes if I was being aggressive with the throttle I could hear a small clunking noise, and if it was very slippery (pure ice) and I was very aggressive with the throttle, it would vibrate a little, felt like driving on washboard.

I've looked at the Bentley book, they use Porsche tool 9537 to install the seals. I figure anything with that OD should work. They also use an axle press tool to remove the half shaft from the upright, is this tool really needed? Finally, they torque the axle to 340 lb-ft! I think my torque wrench only goes to 250 lb-ft, any tips to get the axle torqued? Thanks!

sandersd

Rent a gear torque multiplier from a tool rental shop. My son and I had to rent one to put the flywheel back on his RX-8.

http://www.torquetools.com/Torque-Pr...ltipliers.html

DK570

Good idea to rent, I'll have to check with my local auto parts store. The only tool I've had to rent before has been gear pullers.

Nutty Professor

See attachment. It references the rear differential for removing the halfshaft flange (2-bolt method). But the procedure is the exact same for the front differential. I did this and it worked like a charm. 30 min job seal replacement. Good luck.

Nutty Professor

Well, I'm having issues posting the attachment. Maybe this will work.

Bill99

OK. Not sure if this is helpful but I am in the processed of replacing the final drive shaft seals. As said already, I removed the drive shaft by putting in two bolts on opposite sides of the drive shaft and turning them in slowly and alternating to leverage out the shaft. I would think that if it just pulls out the seal might need to be replaced BUT I certainly am no expert. Anyway replace the circlip when reinstalling. Now as to removal of the seals, I am still trying a lot of pulling but not out yet. Any additional thought would be appreciated.