i need a diy on differential seal removal and flush
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
i need a diy on differential seal removal and flush
well, while im doing my hr springs installed, i noticed a leak coming from the output differential seal, anyone can confirm me that the problem is the seal and not the differential itself? dont get any noise from differential..
my shaft is out and i will replace a leaky boot, and would like to fix also the diff leak...
anyone know how to get the seal out?
is this the good ^part number to order a new one?999-113-347-40-M204
my shaft is out and i will replace a leaky boot, and would like to fix also the diff leak...
anyone know how to get the seal out?
is this the good ^part number to order a new one?999-113-347-40-M204
#3
The front diff seals on my turbo looked the same. I was replacing the CV boots when I noticed the slow leak.
I tried for and hour to get it our with regular tools, but i just bent the crap out of it. You have to be careful not to allow the spring inside the seal to pop out and back into into the diff case. I ended up renting a ring puller from a local part store. Came out in 1 min.
Installing the new one is tricking because they are easy to damage...they have to go in exactly square due to the tolerances of the opening.
The key is to make sure the you have something that is the same diameter as the cup that you can seat the ring with. I bought a large socket that was the same OD size as the new seal (1.75"). I put some white lithium grease on the outside of the seal, lined it up and gave it 2 wraps with a rubber mallet...it went right in.
I tried for and hour to get it our with regular tools, but i just bent the crap out of it. You have to be careful not to allow the spring inside the seal to pop out and back into into the diff case. I ended up renting a ring puller from a local part store. Came out in 1 min.
Installing the new one is tricking because they are easy to damage...they have to go in exactly square due to the tolerances of the opening.
The key is to make sure the you have something that is the same diameter as the cup that you can seat the ring with. I bought a large socket that was the same OD size as the new seal (1.75"). I put some white lithium grease on the outside of the seal, lined it up and gave it 2 wraps with a rubber mallet...it went right in.
#4
I did do the flush and fill after I reinstalled the shafts last fall. I pulled the plug on the bottom of the case and drained it. It helps to have the car up in front and let gravity take out the fluid. My understanding is that the case only holds enough fluid to fill it to the bottom of the filler plug opening--it is on the side of the case. It makes it hard to overfill.
I used OEM fluid and a hand pump filler. After I let it drain completely I put the drain plug back in and pumped in about 50cc and then let it drain again...just to make that I got out any containments. My fluid was clean, no metal or dark colors... it was a bit cloudy.
To make sure I was putting back the correct amount I measured out the Spec amount into a clean container and then added an extra 25cc to account for what would be left in the pump filler.
I jacked the car up in the rear so that it was parallel front to back and checked the side filler plug with my small finger. The fluid was at the bottom of the plug opening...correct amount.
After I was done I spun the wheels with the car in neutral just to make sure that internals were coated and that any air would work itself out before I put power to the wheels. I check the level again---I am a bit **** about these things. All is well 5k later... no leaks.
I used OEM fluid and a hand pump filler. After I let it drain completely I put the drain plug back in and pumped in about 50cc and then let it drain again...just to make that I got out any containments. My fluid was clean, no metal or dark colors... it was a bit cloudy.
To make sure I was putting back the correct amount I measured out the Spec amount into a clean container and then added an extra 25cc to account for what would be left in the pump filler.
I jacked the car up in the rear so that it was parallel front to back and checked the side filler plug with my small finger. The fluid was at the bottom of the plug opening...correct amount.
After I was done I spun the wheels with the car in neutral just to make sure that internals were coated and that any air would work itself out before I put power to the wheels. I check the level again---I am a bit **** about these things. All is well 5k later... no leaks.
#5
Race Car
Thread Starter
thanks for the info jrock,
i will get myself a ring puller,
tell me, how do you remove the circle part that cover the seal?
is the c4s seal the same as a turbo?
i will get myself a ring puller,
tell me, how do you remove the circle part that cover the seal?
is the c4s seal the same as a turbo?
#6
NP--- I started out here on dial up in 2001... learning everything I could about these cars. I found nearly every answer to every question on Rennlist. This is an awesome resource. I have been mostly active on another site for a couple of years, but I aways gravitate back when I have tough technical questions.
I have wanted to own a Porsche since I was 10. One of my father's friend owned a '74 Canary Yellow 911... I was hooked. I feel blessed everyday when I open my garage door.
--
The orange ring that surrounds the shaft is a cup seal. The cup is metal with rubber coating that has a flange/seal on the inside that is held tight against the shaft w/spring. The orange part is the cover and the seal all in one.
It appears they are the same for both the 996/c4/c4s and the turbo.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...2001-05)%20%20
I have wanted to own a Porsche since I was 10. One of my father's friend owned a '74 Canary Yellow 911... I was hooked. I feel blessed everyday when I open my garage door.
--
The orange ring that surrounds the shaft is a cup seal. The cup is metal with rubber coating that has a flange/seal on the inside that is held tight against the shaft w/spring. The orange part is the cover and the seal all in one.
It appears they are the same for both the 996/c4/c4s and the turbo.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...2001-05)%20%20
Last edited by jrockwood; 02-22-2011 at 01:32 AM.
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#10
I removed the entire half shaft w/o removing the bolts. A quick tug and the whole assembly came out. There is a retaining ring on end of the splines ... I replaced this before I re-installed, but it came out without any effort. Not sure if this the correct procedure.
#12
Not sure how easily the can be pulled with out the leverage of the entire shaft. Anyone else know how to remove?
I do not want to tell Seb to jerk them out and have him damage the internals.
I do not want to tell Seb to jerk them out and have him damage the internals.
#13
Race Car
Thread Starter