First 911
06-02-2011, 02:02 AM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
First 911
Purchased my first 911 - a black/black '02 996 Targa at the end of March, after lurking about the forum for a while. Previous owner had it as a second car, 52K miles and most of the service records. First time I've done PPI on a used car - so that was one of the best pointers I got. Nothing major found
- a couple of dings & pits in the paint, but overall paint was in great condition
- needed detailing (which I spent a weekend doing myself with Meguire's kit and buffer)
- radio not operational - I could have had it fixed for $250 at a local shop here in the bay area - but decided to fir Pioneer AVH3200 with bluetooth, ipod connection, DVD etc. Simple adapter was all that was needed to work with BOSE amp (since not FIOS system luckily). I can upgrade to rear camera and navi later if I decide I need it
- Engine trunk shock needed replacing (weak)
- multifunction switch for turn signals was broken - does not stay on
- PO said oil consumption was about 1qt per 1K miles - but posts here say that is within normal range (mobile 1 0W40)
- Service records showed clutch, RMS & IMS seal done at 30K
- Front wheels needed balance (did at wheel works for $20)
-------------
So I drove for a couple of weeks and then took it to Heyer in Mountain View for oil change and brake fluid - plus he did inspection. He is the place to go for PPI in this area (I went to German auto shop close to my office but they were not as thorough). He noted window regulator starting to fail (I can live with that for now), water stain around AOS and Water pump (I have been watching coolant level - so far no change - so I will leave for now), cruise control switch not working (don;t need cruise control - maybe if I replace the combo switch that will fix the issue). I changed my own cabin filter (first DIY ! - easier than my old Prius)- and plan to do air filter (Pelican is great for parts).
---------------
Since oil change - I had problem with turn signal (turned out to be poor connection on blub holder that was easily fixed thanks to pointers on the forum) and my oil pressure sender goes crazy sometimes (PO had the dealer look at that - but it was not reproduced at the time and dealer did not replace the sender - I may try to DIY that if I can cut a wrench down to the right size). Car would not start once (turned out to be loose DME fuse - I think stereo installer had not put back correctly - again thanks to forum I was able to diagnose that myself - took a couple of hours and lots of sweating however !). Overall car drives and handles great - I'm really happy with purchase (a deal at <<$30K). When clutch needs doing again I'm thinking about IMS upgrade & change AOS .. then hopefully I'm good into the 100K's. Targa roof is great compromise between full convertible and coupe - I'm not planning to track it (unless you count interstate 280 on a Sunday morning
) and the targa hatch allows me to slide golf clubs easily in the back - not sure why standard coupe would not have that ! OK I migth give up 0.2 sec to 60 .. but if I am really worried about that I will upgrade to a chipped turbo .... for now power and torque are good for CA driving conditions (no autobahn - well unless you count 280).
---------------------------
A couple of questions for the forum
1. How worried should I be about water stain around water pump ? After 1K miles - water reservior level did not change.
2. PO had put Pirelli P Zero 265/35 summer tires on rear (I had to replace one missmatched tire with a used one I found on ebay for only $35 that worked out great) - which is the option tire size for winter tires (I have 18" turbo look wheels). I think that was also the standard size on the '99-'01 carrera ? When I use the rubber up, I was thinking to stay at that size, since a couple of other tire options are available (like Yokohama S.Drive) that seem to offer better price/treadwear tradeoff than the 285's (sumitomo, hankook, bridgestones) .. If I'm not on the track , are the 285's going to be noticeably different ? (I'd rather get slightly better wear versus at the limit handling)
3. Would my oil consumption go down (looks like 1qt per 1K miles right now on Mobile 1 0W40) - if I go to Castrol 5W40 ? Any negatives to do that ? (did anyone run oil analysis to back that up ? I tried to search why Porsche changed oil spec from 10W40 to 0W40 - was it only CAFE - or was there an engine issue ? I'm in northern California, and it never freezes here and rarely gets above the 90's ....most the time very moderate - so I can see the need for 0W40 in cold climates.
Thanks
911/996 Targa '02 Black/Black 6spd, full leather, side skits, 18" P Zero, Pioneer AVH3200BT, PSM, BOSE, Heated Seats, Xeons.
- a couple of dings & pits in the paint, but overall paint was in great condition
- needed detailing (which I spent a weekend doing myself with Meguire's kit and buffer)
- radio not operational - I could have had it fixed for $250 at a local shop here in the bay area - but decided to fir Pioneer AVH3200 with bluetooth, ipod connection, DVD etc. Simple adapter was all that was needed to work with BOSE amp (since not FIOS system luckily). I can upgrade to rear camera and navi later if I decide I need it
- Engine trunk shock needed replacing (weak)
- multifunction switch for turn signals was broken - does not stay on
- PO said oil consumption was about 1qt per 1K miles - but posts here say that is within normal range (mobile 1 0W40)
- Service records showed clutch, RMS & IMS seal done at 30K
- Front wheels needed balance (did at wheel works for $20)
-------------
So I drove for a couple of weeks and then took it to Heyer in Mountain View for oil change and brake fluid - plus he did inspection. He is the place to go for PPI in this area (I went to German auto shop close to my office but they were not as thorough). He noted window regulator starting to fail (I can live with that for now), water stain around AOS and Water pump (I have been watching coolant level - so far no change - so I will leave for now), cruise control switch not working (don;t need cruise control - maybe if I replace the combo switch that will fix the issue). I changed my own cabin filter (first DIY ! - easier than my old Prius)- and plan to do air filter (Pelican is great for parts).
---------------
Since oil change - I had problem with turn signal (turned out to be poor connection on blub holder that was easily fixed thanks to pointers on the forum) and my oil pressure sender goes crazy sometimes (PO had the dealer look at that - but it was not reproduced at the time and dealer did not replace the sender - I may try to DIY that if I can cut a wrench down to the right size). Car would not start once (turned out to be loose DME fuse - I think stereo installer had not put back correctly - again thanks to forum I was able to diagnose that myself - took a couple of hours and lots of sweating however !). Overall car drives and handles great - I'm really happy with purchase (a deal at <<$30K). When clutch needs doing again I'm thinking about IMS upgrade & change AOS .. then hopefully I'm good into the 100K's. Targa roof is great compromise between full convertible and coupe - I'm not planning to track it (unless you count interstate 280 on a Sunday morning
) and the targa hatch allows me to slide golf clubs easily in the back - not sure why standard coupe would not have that ! OK I migth give up 0.2 sec to 60 .. but if I am really worried about that I will upgrade to a chipped turbo .... for now power and torque are good for CA driving conditions (no autobahn - well unless you count 280).---------------------------
A couple of questions for the forum
1. How worried should I be about water stain around water pump ? After 1K miles - water reservior level did not change.
2. PO had put Pirelli P Zero 265/35 summer tires on rear (I had to replace one missmatched tire with a used one I found on ebay for only $35 that worked out great) - which is the option tire size for winter tires (I have 18" turbo look wheels). I think that was also the standard size on the '99-'01 carrera ? When I use the rubber up, I was thinking to stay at that size, since a couple of other tire options are available (like Yokohama S.Drive) that seem to offer better price/treadwear tradeoff than the 285's (sumitomo, hankook, bridgestones) .. If I'm not on the track , are the 285's going to be noticeably different ? (I'd rather get slightly better wear versus at the limit handling)
3. Would my oil consumption go down (looks like 1qt per 1K miles right now on Mobile 1 0W40) - if I go to Castrol 5W40 ? Any negatives to do that ? (did anyone run oil analysis to back that up ? I tried to search why Porsche changed oil spec from 10W40 to 0W40 - was it only CAFE - or was there an engine issue ? I'm in northern California, and it never freezes here and rarely gets above the 90's ....most the time very moderate - so I can see the need for 0W40 in cold climates.
Thanks
911/996 Targa '02 Black/Black 6spd, full leather, side skits, 18" P Zero, Pioneer AVH3200BT, PSM, BOSE, Heated Seats, Xeons.
06-02-2011, 02:18 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
Gorgeous car - love those side skirts. I'd go with the narrower rear tires - understeer is a bitch. My car doesn't use any oil - quart for 1K miles seems excessive but not outrageous. If you're car isn't losing water why worry about a stain? You've got some normal "older car" things to attend to like most of us. Enjoy in good health.
06-02-2011, 09:35 AM
#4
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
what a great intro - welcome
OK, lets see....water pump staining, please provide a pic. I am guessing you will be fine for a while but keep in mind a water pump replacement is cheap when its at the shop and much more colstly when you are 100 miles from the shop.
oil use: drive it more and drive it right, then monitor...
drive it right: start car and begin to drive withing 10-20 seconds. Keep rmp below 4200 until motor reaches normal operating temp. drive spiritedly reaching rps's close to redline, run it thru its range. (never drive in low rpm range < 2300) allow car to "cool down by driving at lower rpms for a few miles <4k - this "process" should be repeated every drive at a very minimum daily (if driven daily)
regarding tires... its a sports car, if you get 10k out of the rears, change driving style to try and get less...front can last about double. Your tires will wear out rather you drive it like it was meant to be driven or you putt around like an old lady. What did you buy it for, its looks? puch the gas and smile...dont be afraid to replace the tires. This same mentality goes for brakes... USE EM...replace them. You should be threashold braking or even in the ABS at least a few times a day...keeps things working and keeps you sharp.
I dont see where you are from - please provide info
as for the side skirts without a front spoiler or rear, it looks a little out of balance, but that is just my opinion. I sure love the black and with some work it will come alive. Not sure what the Meguires kit is but its easy to swirl black and get spider webs...take your time and use a random orbital, clay bar, polish and good wax. I found Zaino was amazing on the black...didnt seem like anything was happening, a little like...what am I doing, this stuff isnt working and then WHAM - OMG...about eh 4th or 5th coat of the final step it leitteraly popped out of my driveway and into the stratosphere!! well almost
last word of advise, the IMS fix stated is highly likely to me a seal, not a bearing. You can read ALL ABOUT THAT here. be educated, not surprised
welcome...
OK, lets see....water pump staining, please provide a pic. I am guessing you will be fine for a while but keep in mind a water pump replacement is cheap when its at the shop and much more colstly when you are 100 miles from the shop.
oil use: drive it more and drive it right, then monitor...
drive it right: start car and begin to drive withing 10-20 seconds. Keep rmp below 4200 until motor reaches normal operating temp. drive spiritedly reaching rps's close to redline, run it thru its range. (never drive in low rpm range < 2300) allow car to "cool down by driving at lower rpms for a few miles <4k - this "process" should be repeated every drive at a very minimum daily (if driven daily)
regarding tires... its a sports car, if you get 10k out of the rears, change driving style to try and get less...front can last about double. Your tires will wear out rather you drive it like it was meant to be driven or you putt around like an old lady. What did you buy it for, its looks? puch the gas and smile...dont be afraid to replace the tires. This same mentality goes for brakes... USE EM...replace them. You should be threashold braking or even in the ABS at least a few times a day...keeps things working and keeps you sharp.
I dont see where you are from - please provide info
as for the side skirts without a front spoiler or rear, it looks a little out of balance, but that is just my opinion. I sure love the black and with some work it will come alive. Not sure what the Meguires kit is but its easy to swirl black and get spider webs...take your time and use a random orbital, clay bar, polish and good wax. I found Zaino was amazing on the black...didnt seem like anything was happening, a little like...what am I doing, this stuff isnt working and then WHAM - OMG...about eh 4th or 5th coat of the final step it leitteraly popped out of my driveway and into the stratosphere!! well almost
last word of advise, the IMS fix stated is highly likely to me a seal, not a bearing. You can read ALL ABOUT THAT here. be educated, not surprised
welcome...
06-02-2011, 12:45 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Very nice!
On changing the oil pressure sender. One of the easier ways is to come from the bottom. Use an extension (10-12") with a universal and crows foot to loosen and then reach in from the top and unscrew the unit by hand.
It wouldn't hurt to check the Air Oil Separator. When they start to fail oil consumption goes up. Try to take the oil cap off while the engine is running. Often a failing AOS will create vacuum in the crankcase.
Another sign is oil in the intake plenum.
You can often see this as a buildup on the walls behind the throttle body plate.
On changing the oil pressure sender. One of the easier ways is to come from the bottom. Use an extension (10-12") with a universal and crows foot to loosen and then reach in from the top and unscrew the unit by hand.
It wouldn't hurt to check the Air Oil Separator. When they start to fail oil consumption goes up. Try to take the oil cap off while the engine is running. Often a failing AOS will create vacuum in the crankcase.
Another sign is oil in the intake plenum.
You can often see this as a buildup on the walls behind the throttle body plate.
06-02-2011, 01:56 PM
#6
Advanced
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just did my oil pressure sensor. Did it from the top, used a 19mm crows foot with a 4" extension. Whole thing took about 5 minutes and I was only bleeding from one hand afterwards. I wasn't able to get my torque wrench in there so I just did it medium tight.
Trending Topics
06-03-2011, 12:39 AM
#11
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
and FWIW the more time you physicaly touch the paint the worse it gets...try NOT to touch...
06-03-2011, 12:06 PM
#15
Racer
Seriously though, pro detailer I know always says pre-rinse with ome wash to get the majority of the dirt off the bodywork, grab a good mitt and don't overlap the strokes. Overlapping means over washing, you don’t have to wipe the same area of the surface more than once.
Robert