Rebuild or boost?
11-26-2011, 05:41 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Rebuild or boost?
So, I have a reasonable mileage 2001 Carrera C2 Cab with 89k on it. I just did the standard freshening of new coils, plugs, low temp t-stat, clutch, IMS retrofit, RMS seal, alternator and soon water pump. She seems to run fine.
My question is this... should I have the motor checked for compression and leak down and if passing look at doing a low boost turbo kit... or, should I think about doing a motor rebuild to a 3.6 or better (I heard EBS Racing is recommended and close to me) using some LN Engineering components?
I do plan to keep the car long term but do not have tons of money to just throw around. The turbo kit would be lower cost but just not sure on the best option for the long term. I hear of these motors going 150k+ miles with proper care. What do you guys think?
David
My question is this... should I have the motor checked for compression and leak down and if passing look at doing a low boost turbo kit... or, should I think about doing a motor rebuild to a 3.6 or better (I heard EBS Racing is recommended and close to me) using some LN Engineering components?
I do plan to keep the car long term but do not have tons of money to just throw around. The turbo kit would be lower cost but just not sure on the best option for the long term. I hear of these motors going 150k+ miles with proper care. What do you guys think?
David
11-26-2011, 06:22 PM
#2
Three Wheelin'
Any kind of forced induction has a cool factor that you won't get with larger displacement.
Yet, larger displacement has fewer parts that are usually less stressed and will typically have fewer repairs.
Traditionally, the best forced induction engines were planned to be that way from the beginning. That way they have the proper lubrication, cooling, engine management systems, etc. Expect that when you go to sell the car, forced induction will have a polarizing effect....in that, it will eliminate a lot of buyers who will assume (rightly or wrongly) that the engine's life will be reduced and that you have been thrashing it.
Without all the xtra hardware on the car, it will be better balanced, easier to service and you won't have any insurance companies making assumptions about your driving based on what's been bolted on.
But even changing displacement needs to be done well.
A week at a top driving school might be a greater kick and give you skills that will make you faster in every car you ever buy.
Yet, larger displacement has fewer parts that are usually less stressed and will typically have fewer repairs.
Traditionally, the best forced induction engines were planned to be that way from the beginning. That way they have the proper lubrication, cooling, engine management systems, etc. Expect that when you go to sell the car, forced induction will have a polarizing effect....in that, it will eliminate a lot of buyers who will assume (rightly or wrongly) that the engine's life will be reduced and that you have been thrashing it.
Without all the xtra hardware on the car, it will be better balanced, easier to service and you won't have any insurance companies making assumptions about your driving based on what's been bolted on.
But even changing displacement needs to be done well.
A week at a top driving school might be a greater kick and give you skills that will make you faster in every car you ever buy.
11-26-2011, 07:42 PM
#4
Three Wheelin'
I wouldn't think of boosting until I knew the engine was sound... starting with evaluation of compression and leak down numbers and miles/hours on the engine.
Especially would not consider FI with an engine that had 89k miles on it...
Especially would not consider FI with an engine that had 89k miles on it...
Last edited by logray; 11-26-2011 at 09:23 PM.
11-26-2011, 07:48 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Boosting not recommended for any M96 engine & especially any early 3.4 engine since they have the thinnest/weakest cylinder walls. 
There is no replacement for displacement!
There is no replacement for displacement!
11-26-2011, 11:39 PM
#7
Drifting
If you're serious about throwing money at your car, just sell it and pay the difference and get a Turbo. You will get an upgraded chassis and suspension, AWD (good and bad depending upon your perspective) bigger brakes, stronger trans, interior upgrades like full leather, nav, etc. Resale value will go up as well in proportion to what you pay.
Don't waste your money an a CR check and getting a turbo kit which with the install will cost as much as getting the real deal. A turbo on your car will most likely reduce the value to most people and could hammer your already weak motor assuming it's in already in really good condition.
Don't waste your money an a CR check and getting a turbo kit which with the install will cost as much as getting the real deal. A turbo on your car will most likely reduce the value to most people and could hammer your already weak motor assuming it's in already in really good condition.
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11-27-2011, 02:11 PM
#9
Only one of your two options is going to give power and improve reliability. A rebuild seems likes the best option if you're set on spending money.
If you want a lot more power then follow Nick's advice. Personally, I love the idea of turbocharging from an engineering standpoint, but I also want reliability. To me, that means starting with an engine designed for forced induction.
-Shawn
If you want a lot more power then follow Nick's advice. Personally, I love the idea of turbocharging from an engineering standpoint, but I also want reliability. To me, that means starting with an engine designed for forced induction.
-Shawn
11-27-2011, 08:31 PM
#11
Racer
if you want a turbo, buy a turbo. cheaper in the long run, plus you get the turbo extras for free.
why not drive your c2 cab after your refresh and think about what you want to do? $0.02
why not drive your c2 cab after your refresh and think about what you want to do? $0.02
11-30-2011, 04:27 PM
#13
Race Director
So, I have a reasonable mileage 2001 Carrera C2 Cab with 89k on it. I just did the standard freshening of new coils, plugs, low temp t-stat, clutch, IMS retrofit, RMS seal, alternator and soon water pump. She seems to run fine.
My question is this... should I have the motor checked for compression and leak down and if passing look at doing a low boost turbo kit... or, should I think about doing a motor rebuild to a 3.6 or better (I heard EBS Racing is recommended and close to me) using some LN Engineering components?
I do plan to keep the car long term but do not have tons of money to just throw around. The turbo kit would be lower cost but just not sure on the best option for the long term. I hear of these motors going 150k+ miles with proper care. What do you guys think?
David
My question is this... should I have the motor checked for compression and leak down and if passing look at doing a low boost turbo kit... or, should I think about doing a motor rebuild to a 3.6 or better (I heard EBS Racing is recommended and close to me) using some LN Engineering components?
I do plan to keep the car long term but do not have tons of money to just throw around. The turbo kit would be lower cost but just not sure on the best option for the long term. I hear of these motors going 150k+ miles with proper care. What do you guys think?
David
My advice it to leave the engine alone and enjoy what appears to be a very fine car and one with the care and preventative work you've given it will provide you with many more miles of service.
If you want more HP generally the least expensive solution is to sell your existing car and buy a higher performance car.
If you do nothing you get to keep any money you would have spent on a turbo/supercharger kit or an engine rebuild. Set aside this money to use when you decide to replace this car.
Sincerely,
Macster.
11-30-2011, 04:38 PM
#14
I have seen 2 boosted early 996's at the track with engine covers up and smoke billowing out (out of 2 seen) over the years. The owner of the last one seen showed up with a 996 Turbo the following year.