Water Pump
#31
Rennlist Member
well if you wanted cheap you should have stayed on the porch and bought a chebby
The water pump is way too important to this engine to mess with. Yes poor cooling can lead to engine failure FAAAAAST. I feel its a pay me now or pay me later. and the later is a lot more money.
caugh up the 250 and have piece of mind.
The water pump is way too important to this engine to mess with. Yes poor cooling can lead to engine failure FAAAAAST. I feel its a pay me now or pay me later. and the later is a lot more money.
caugh up the 250 and have piece of mind.
#33
Track Day
The problem with this forum is people get **** about stuff and frighten the hell out of others. I replaced my plastic impeller water pump with a metal one from EBay for $106 at 40,000 miles and the bearing was perfect. and we have done 10,000 miles since and the new one is still perfect. the new one was made by some company in Stuttgart Germany. Looked good to me.
#34
Former Vendor
The problem with this forum is people get **** about stuff and frighten the hell out of others. I replaced my plastic impeller water pump with a metal one from EBay for $106 at 40,000 miles and the bearing was perfect. and we have done 10,000 miles since and the new one is still perfect. the new one was made by some company in Stuttgart Germany. Looked good to me.
Lots of people think the metal impeller is the fool proof way to go- experience has taught me otherwise.
#35
Rocky Mountain High
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I had my water pump replaced at ~90,000 miles because it was starting to leak. The bearing and the impeller looked fine, but I'm glad I had it done. FWIW - I did the same thing on our Cayenne at ~80,000 miles. Water pumps wear out...
#36
When I am not sure of something - I read boards like this and I typically go to a professional. Someone who has a proven track record and more importantly one that I trust. I called the place I use. Not only are they successful on the track, I grew up with one of them. So in my case, I took their advice. I went with metal and went to 160 stat (which is another topic that has a motor oil tone to it). The article from excellence, although very informative - pretty much reads to me "you are ****** with plastic or metal". I didnt buy a cheap ebay pump - although i did consider it, I bought OEM* made in germinay which of course is the general feeling (at least what I am reading) and to shark attacks point - dont drive porka if you cant afford to forka-ova the money. When removed, My plastic was warped and the bearing was shot. I will admit, I hope that the metal holds up because I can only imagine what kind of little bits of plastic made its way in (and now that i think about it - explains the 3 flushes). Regardless, take the steps to maintain your vehicle properly/as scheduled and things will last a long time. Everyone would agree with that. I have about 3k on my metal pump with no issues.
I have been reading this board for quite some time. Only a member for a short period. That being said, the information posted on this board is priceless. Its kind of like ebay in a sense - whatever you are thinking about you can find. This and another board helped me find the car I bought, helped me identify little tricks and tips and has given me guidance to do little things that I would normally pay someone else to do. To roperin's point, many times people are **** or stubborn and you just have to weed through it. But without those people this board wouldnt been the great source it is. Reading the arguments helps you form your own opinion. But remember "opinions are like ***holes... Everybody has one" Sometimes it comes down to the guy that farts the loudest!!! LOL
*Edit to clarify
OEM meaning OEM not metal or plastic. Mine was OEM Metal, the options were OEM Metal or OEM Plastic
I have been reading this board for quite some time. Only a member for a short period. That being said, the information posted on this board is priceless. Its kind of like ebay in a sense - whatever you are thinking about you can find. This and another board helped me find the car I bought, helped me identify little tricks and tips and has given me guidance to do little things that I would normally pay someone else to do. To roperin's point, many times people are **** or stubborn and you just have to weed through it. But without those people this board wouldnt been the great source it is. Reading the arguments helps you form your own opinion. But remember "opinions are like ***holes... Everybody has one" Sometimes it comes down to the guy that farts the loudest!!! LOL
*Edit to clarify
OEM meaning OEM not metal or plastic. Mine was OEM Metal, the options were OEM Metal or OEM Plastic
Last edited by piiqmark; 06-10-2012 at 02:51 PM. Reason: Clarify
#37
Former Vendor
The key is just making sure you do something!
Metal or plastic both have their compromises, but both are better than the one thats been in your engine for a decade.
I always remind people that the metal pump is not the be all, end all.. Because they overlook the fact that it can be a negative as they are only focused on solving the impeller blade problem.
Never fear, a true solution is just over the rainbow.
Metal or plastic both have their compromises, but both are better than the one thats been in your engine for a decade.
I always remind people that the metal pump is not the be all, end all.. Because they overlook the fact that it can be a negative as they are only focused on solving the impeller blade problem.
Never fear, a true solution is just over the rainbow.
The following users liked this post:
Robocop305 (08-27-2022)
#38
The key is just making sure you do something!
Metal or plastic both have their compromises, but both are better than the one thats been in your engine for a decade.
I always remind people that the metal pump is not the be all, end all.. Because they overlook the fact that it can be a negative as they are only focused on solving the impeller blade problem.
Never fear, a true solution is just over the rainbow.
Metal or plastic both have their compromises, but both are better than the one thats been in your engine for a decade.
I always remind people that the metal pump is not the be all, end all.. Because they overlook the fact that it can be a negative as they are only focused on solving the impeller blade problem.
Never fear, a true solution is just over the rainbow.
#39
Jake,
Are you familliar with the aftermarket Stewart HP water pump that is used on BMWs? Unlike the factory BMW pump (and the Porsche pump) the metal impellar is enclosed in its own metal case or cylindrical jacket. If the impellar were to wobble around (which to my knowledge, have not heard reports of that with the Stewart pump) it will only make contact with the inside of the case and not the engine itself.
It is a popular, long lived replacement (I have one) for the weak BMW design.
Are you familliar with the aftermarket Stewart HP water pump that is used on BMWs? Unlike the factory BMW pump (and the Porsche pump) the metal impellar is enclosed in its own metal case or cylindrical jacket. If the impellar were to wobble around (which to my knowledge, have not heard reports of that with the Stewart pump) it will only make contact with the inside of the case and not the engine itself.
It is a popular, long lived replacement (I have one) for the weak BMW design.
#40
Three Wheelin'
OK - I'm willing to pop a few hundred for preventative maintenance.
Installation is free and easy for those of us with a set of sockets in our toolbox, so for the price of a few tanks of gas (premium here costs $1.62/litre = $6.13/gallon) why even ask the question?
A question I will ask though is what pump should I order off of Pelican (should I choose to buy from them and not Suncoast). They offer two:
1) OEM supplier Pierburg for $275
2) OEM Porsche for $388
Both are composite impellers. That's good enough for me - I'll change it again in 7 years if I still own the car.
As an aside - it will be interesting to see if the M97 reman motor in my car has a plastic or metal impeller.
Installation is free and easy for those of us with a set of sockets in our toolbox, so for the price of a few tanks of gas (premium here costs $1.62/litre = $6.13/gallon) why even ask the question?
A question I will ask though is what pump should I order off of Pelican (should I choose to buy from them and not Suncoast). They offer two:
1) OEM supplier Pierburg for $275
2) OEM Porsche for $388
Both are composite impellers. That's good enough for me - I'll change it again in 7 years if I still own the car.
As an aside - it will be interesting to see if the M97 reman motor in my car has a plastic or metal impeller.
#41
Nordschleife Master
OK - I'm willing to pop a few hundred for preventative maintenance.
Installation is free and easy for those of us with a set of sockets in our toolbox, so for the price of a few tanks of gas (premium here costs $1.62/litre = $6.13/gallon) why even ask the question?
A question I will ask though is what pump should I order off of Pelican (should I choose to buy from them and not Suncoast). They offer two:
1) OEM supplier Pierburg for $275
2) OEM Porsche for $388
Both are composite impellers. That's good enough for me - I'll change it again in 7 years if I still own the car.
As an aside - it will be interesting to see if the M97 reman motor in my car has a plastic or metal impeller.
Installation is free and easy for those of us with a set of sockets in our toolbox, so for the price of a few tanks of gas (premium here costs $1.62/litre = $6.13/gallon) why even ask the question?
A question I will ask though is what pump should I order off of Pelican (should I choose to buy from them and not Suncoast). They offer two:
1) OEM supplier Pierburg for $275
2) OEM Porsche for $388
Both are composite impellers. That's good enough for me - I'll change it again in 7 years if I still own the car.
As an aside - it will be interesting to see if the M97 reman motor in my car has a plastic or metal impeller.
I ordered the OEM Porsche pump from Pelican last night. The pump shaft was flagged as having some play at my last service and I noticed yesterday my temperature gauge being higher than normal, so I'm taking that as a sign that it's almost time for replacement.
#43
Former Vendor
Already developed and has been used in our engines. I have not determined if we will market it otherwise due to installation difficulty.
I am also worried that someone would replace a failing pump with this unit and not remove all the prior debris from the system which could lead to failure and our product would get the finger pointing. In today's world its a difficult marketplace to say the least and everyone looks upstream when something happens that isn't positive~
I am also worried that someone would replace a failing pump with this unit and not remove all the prior debris from the system which could lead to failure and our product would get the finger pointing. In today's world its a difficult marketplace to say the least and everyone looks upstream when something happens that isn't positive~
#44
Drifting
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Ephrata, PA, USA now. Originally from the UK
Posts: 3,075
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And you better hope that you never lose a water pump drive bearing.. When you do that metal impeller will destroy the crankcase by chewing into the aluminum housing. When this happens the system will never build enough cooling system pressure to avoid overheating.
Keep the plastic impeller and change the pump every 3 years despite mileage.
The Excellence article is great this month, their contributor on this article really knows his stuff :-)
Keep the plastic impeller and change the pump every 3 years despite mileage.
The Excellence article is great this month, their contributor on this article really knows his stuff :-)