jasper

Good point and yes, I'm aware that I can't push the clutch pedal now that the slave is out.

I'm thinking more that if it's hydraulic then it's the master not the slave, but you're right, the slave is almost guaranteed to fail sometime in the next 100,000 miles and for the few bucks now it will save me pain and suffering sometime when I am in my 50's, when I will be even less excited about removing the little bugger.

Thinking now that if it was a sudden hydraulic failure that occurred last week then it's not likely that I would have been able to hold the clutch pedal down and be able to select a gear after any length of time. The pressure plate would have been pushing back on the hydraulics the whole time.

Then again I'm 20% into the job so my mind is not letting me think purely rationally.

One response on Renntech says that I should not be able to push the slave piston inwards if the hydraulics are good. I will check this now.

I don't think though that this is a way to confirm good hydraulics, only a way to confirm bad hydraulics.

jasper

Hows this for a test:

Removed the actuator rod from the slave.

Pushed the piston all the way in and inserted a 3/8" punch into the piston where the rod normally rides.

clamped the system so that the piston can't move out when the clutch pedal is depressed.

Go inside the car and tried to press down the clutch pedal and it moved about an inch and stopped. I pushed pretty hard - but not enough to blow the seals obviously.

Seems to me the hydraulics are good.

What say you?

Anyone?

Ahmet

Two things:
I would not have done that.
It's the pressure plate. Stop beating around the bush, the job isn't bad at all. :P

Barn, I was never a big poster but I've just been working way too much of late. That and I wasn't happy w/my 996. Let's just say one thing led to another and it got a lot of attention as of late...

jasper

Thanks Ahmet - I appreciate advice from the experienced. I am replacing the slave anyway so wasn't too worried about screwing it up.

I'm not worried about the job so much, I'm fully prepared. I just didn't want to bolt it all back together and then find out it still doesn't work because the problem was the hydraulics.

I plan to drop the transmission tomorrow - provided I can get my floor jack working again - had bit of a fluid leak....somewhat self induced. Long story.


edit - Speaking of long stories - what happened with your 996? Do you still have one? Did something unsavory happen? Was it fun at least?

robert r

Exactly the same symptom as mine, when the pressure plate failed.

jasper

Right - that's the transmission out. With a hoist, and an awesome selection of wobble joint extensions, I can just barely imagine getting the top nut without dropping the engine an inch. For anyone thinking about doing this on their backs on the garage dropping the engine isn't just necessary - it is easily worth the tiny bit of effort and the little bit of thinking required.


A big problem for me also was that after 120,000 km of driving rain, snow and shine the steel bolts had oxidized themselves nicely onto the aluminum trans housing. I had to lever the sh*t out of my ratchet every single time. I used both the handle from my floor jack and a box end wrench to get this done. Not all that easy or enjoyable to be honest.

Separating the transmission from the engine took a lot of jiggling and pulling so make sure your engine brace is solid. Mine went together quick ( see photo) 6x6 screwed to a 2x10 base plate sitting on top of a 2x12. I have a hockey puck between the top of the 6x6 and the engine case.

Here's the photos - I didn't take any during the hard work...kinda busy!


Oh yeah - shout out to my good buddy and workmate GNR996 who lent a hand and some thinking energy.

jasper

Here's where my pressure plate cracked...in between those two fingers there:

jasper

Here are the photos of the RMS and IMSB flange before and after I cleaned them up. There was just clutch disc dust on both of them - no oil whatsoever.

Notice anything unusual?

That's right - the big nut on the IMSB shaft means this is a M97 upgraded engine. This IMSB can not be extracted from the outside of the engine. This upgrade was Porsche's internal answer to failing intermediate shaft bearings.

For better or worse - this is the bearing that I am staying with for the long haul.

jasper

So the new plan is:

1) AASCO Light weight fly wheel. I have a refurbished and (importantly) balanced piece with new bolts lined up. My stock DMF is in good shape - I'll keep it in case I don't like the LWFW.

2) Stock clutch kit - included pressure plate, friction disc, throwout bearing. Will order a new throwout bearing collar too.

3) New slave cylinder - the old one has a ton of miles on it and I abused it a but during my troubleshooting phase.

4) Second gear detent mod/upgrade. Never liked how second gear landed. I have to figure out where to buy that.

5) New air oil separator. I shudder to think how painful that replacement is going to be.

6) An new RMS..providing I can find a good procedure and the tool necessary to do the job exactly right. My motor was clearly built during the start of the 997 series - so presumably the installed RMS is the latest and greatest.

That's it..if I have any money left over I'm getting a set of RS motor mounts.

GNR996

big nut huh...

whats the data on the big nut motor failures?

bar

I wouldn't change the RMS, it's the updated style and not leaking so why bother?

pesuazo

I remember when the same thing (symptoms) happened to me.....Ahmet said "most likely the pressure plate".....he replaced my clutch in one day......finding broken fingers on the pressure plate.....
Did I say he knows these cars well?

Byprodriver

+1 on this especially without the install tool

Also need a sprung hub clutch disc to go with the un damping flywheel.

G-Box in Colorado sells the 2nd gear detent improver

jasper

OK:

1) I'm going to build the tool...although I want to look at the factory tool to see just how trick it is. I won't be pulling the old seal out without first being 100% sure I can put the new on in without issue.

2) Spring centred disc eh? That's not something I planned on. Asking around it's recommended not required. I'm going to do some asking around on the forum here.

3) GBox - yes I figured that out too.

Parts are ordered and on the way. I just have to figure out this clutch disc thing. It's a $600 part....same as the entire OEM clutch kit.

jrgordonsenior

Sachs replacement clutch kit costs about $500. and is all you need. Anything else is a waste of your money....