luvmy911

Please - take it easy on me!!! I may have done a not-so-smart-thing and broken THE cardinal rule....

I bought a used, 2003 C4S 996 coupe - SIGHT UN-SEEN- with no test drive! I trusted my dealer and 3rd party PPI person/company!

I have previously owned several other 996 Porsches, and I am keenly aware of the common faults seen in our 996's.

But, I think, without accusing my dealer or the PPI I had done, that I may be in a small amount of trouble that was not identified to me.....

Here's whats going on:

1) Car delivered to me and looks great! Mostly everything is what I expected visually.

2) Start up though, produces a big and quick "thunk" - and then its running.

3) A quick "goose" of the throttle (after warmed) produces a .5 to 1 second lag and then a near stall and lots of clunking - then suddenly, a recovery to idle.

4) All starts from 1st gear - Stop signs, lights, driveway, every thing - requires me to rev the car up to 2k+ and a slow release of the clutch to get the car going without a thud, clunk and so on... (This part is concerning to me because I cannot make a quick move in traffic. I thinks its dangerous!)

5) Otherwise, regular driving and conscientious shifting whilst in motion are OK.

6) Maybe not important - but oil pressure is pegged at 5 mostly always and then is very bouncy at idle (between 3.5 and 5) ???


I have read so many articles here, my gut is telling me it may only be Engine Mounts and/or Transmission mounts causing the Clunk. Calls to the various Porsche dealers where the car was from showed no service records of concern (no record of RMS replacement nor IMS issue).

Does anyone have a thought on my issue(s). I REALLY want to give my dealer and PPI person the benefit of the doubt that they are capable and are conveying the right information. I feel slightly duped at the moment. I am hoping its because I forgot how to drive my 996, but I think there is a real problem.

But - maybe I should have expected problems and was caught up by the pure beauty and emotion of the buy....

Important notes: About 50k current miles. Next, I bought this car with an after-market Super-Charger by TPC. It also has very expensive coil-over Bilsteins on it. With these aftermarket upgrades, I have assumed this car was driven hard if not even tracked. I also am NOT impressed with the install of the SC. That I will rant-on in some other post.

Thank you for any/all help!!!!

Greg

dotframe

Have you contacted them about this? What is their reaction? This sounds very shady to me. No way the symptoms you are describing could be considered normal to anyone ever.

My advise would be to stop driving the car until you get someone to look at it.

Hurdigurdiman

Appears like the engine simply needs a good tuning up from a Porsche dealer. It could be as simple as that. Your clutch aint gonna last long having to drive it as you describe.

jdjones2010

Wow, there's alot to be said here but I can't believe they would actually sell you this car knowing it had such an obvious problem, & thinking well maybe he won't notice it! jmo

KrazyK

Could you have someone else watch / listen to the engine while you start-up, rev, etc. and see if its something obvious if your really believe it is a bad mount?

I almost made the same mistake making a deal with a Porsche dealer over the phone / internet without looking at the car in person and driving it. Yes, they wil LIE, LIE, and LIE some more.

Some of the PPI's are total BS when done by the dealership mechanic but you wrote you used a 3rd party PPI. I hope you didnt use the one recommended on Ebay because that ones a joke. Why on Earth havent you called the dealer and PPI company?

Shark Attack

I dont think you are in that deep. You just got the car. Take it to a local wrech and have them take a look. I bought mine the same way. But from a private party and he lied out his *** or he was just REALLY stupid when it comes to any kind of car.

Just stick with it. Have it fixed.. I bet the repair will be under 1000.00... And if my "under 1000.00" makes you cring... get rid of the car. You have no business owning a P car. maybe a Camaro <--- joke from other thread... Relax... wasnt a red neck dig at you

I think you have a vacc leak, AOS hose leak or Im going to say it on this one... a bad MAF. Do you have any CEL codes?

Shark Attack

Dude.. you are in Pittsburgh... Bring that bad boy up here.. We can fix it. Im Erie, PA

Macster

My knowledge of consumer law is very thin.

While it is buyer beware things that a seller should know about the car's condition should be divulged. I mean to make a point the seller can't say the car is fine and then the delivery truck driver shows up and shoves a twisted hulk of a car off the bed of the truck and when you call the seller he denies all knowledge of the car's condition.

Your best bet at least initially is to see if you can get some goodwill from the seller and the PPI.

But you need leverage.

Consult with someone in the consumer fraud division of your area, the county or even at the state level, or the in area of the seller/PPI.

See what if any consumer fraud law basis you have to approach the seller/PPI with these issues that should have clearly been noted by anyone who drove the car.

The seller I'm pretty sure checked the car out before buying it, taking it as a trade in, and the PPI should have found these issues as well. So they can't claim no no knowledge of these issues.

See what you can do, how far you can get with this goodwill attempt before you take on fixing the car yourself.

Sincerely,

Macster.

jdjones2010

THIS!, What more could you ask for, a fellow Rennlister asking you to bring it over & let him take a look at it for you! jmo

luvmy911

Guys - thanks so far! My gut is telling me its the motor mounts. Further info; upon idle, I notice the sound of the engine is just not right. I’m trying to listen unbiased, with an open mind that it may NOT be the motor mounts. However, it almost sounds like metal-on-metal. Once I accelerate the sound goes away and I hear the engine as normal along with the 'sweet' whine of the Super Charger (SC).

I cant really see the motor mounts because the SC obstructs the view on both sides. With a tiny mirror and really bright light, it looks like the mounts may be deformed.

Next, the code reader shows no codes. The check engine light is not on.

Lastly, check out the attached snippet from the report the PPI gave me. They do mention they hear rattling upon start up but describe it as the exhaust hitting something. Dealer never personally or in writing mentioned this to me.

Any other thoughts are appreciated. Oh - and if I do need motor mounts, it appears that with the SC installed, there is no room for them. Are their after-market mounts that are smaller or lower in height than the regular hydraulic ones?

Shark - THANKS for your offer - I may try the mounts based on the opinions here and if that doesnt work - I may head up to see you, unless you have an early snow!!

Thanks all!

Greg

street rod

The reports saying a slight rattle on start up is common on some cars and not always a problem. Call the dealer first and tell him it came off the truck with the problem. I would not drive it until you talk to the dealer. I would think at least some respectable dealers will make good on fixing it since it obviously was like this before it arrived at your house. They may pay for a local indy to take care of it. If the dealer is a dead beat and will not do anything then call the PPI mechanic 2nd and Shark attack 3rd.

luvmy911

Appreciate the advice. They (Dealer and PPI) are in your neck of the woods (Houston Actually). I drove the car obviously until I became suspicious that there was an issue. I have not driven it since I consulted with you all.

Next steps are to email (so its in writing).

Thanks!!

luvmy911

Oh also - note the little disclaimer the PPI has in my snippet - seems to absolve them of any found issues afterwards.

dotframe

You didn't get the car from Victory Motorcars did you?

luvmy911

No. I bought this car from a dealer in Houston, TX.