perryinva

I decided to replace the original water pump in my '02 C2 and install a low temp T-stat. I tested the T-stat on the stove with my Fluke temp monitor and a dial indicator, both which agreed. It barely starts to open at 160, and is maybe 30% open at 170, and not really full open until 190. However, I'm sure the amount of flow gained between 180 and up is minimal, but it works fine. I still have to test the old one, and see how it compares.

I carefully inspected the od water pump, and at first glance, it appeared fine. The impeller blades are fully intact, no roughness or wear, and not brittle. The old pump itself turns far easier than the new one, and there is distinct bearing noise, not heard on the new one. If I apply pressure and rock the pulley, I can feel some play in the bearing, but there is no sign of leaking. I always though there should be no play at all, so maybe it's days were indeed numbered, so worth the effort to me. (Seriously, even though I only have 48k mile son it, it's an 11 year old water pump with a known issue with plastic impellers that can waste an engine, and the current revision of the pump is like 4 after mine.) All the cavities in the T-stat part of the block and the pump part, were spotless and clean, zero signs of any corrosion or film build up, and all the hose interiors looked great, so a healthy cooling system.

Car is still apart (other issues), so I haven't yet tried my new Airlift vacuum tool to refill the cooling system.

IMHO, this is a royal PITA maintenance set, and I've been at it for 2 days (along with the AOS) and had I known I'd have as much trouble removing the pump, which other seem to have had little trouble with, I might have paid to get it done.

NAAA...what fun is that...

B r i a n

I just bought my water pump - targeting January to install.
I don't know about little trouble - no one seems to say it is easy.

Invius

Agreed it's a bit of a pain in the ***. For me, I couldn't get the hose off of the the T-Stat without cutting it off, so I ended up having to take the T-stat off to get the water pump to drop down. I think that is the easier way, and just plan on replacing the T-stat at the same time (never a bad idea while you are in there) or for an extra 6 bucks, just plan on replacing the gasket as well. All told, I was probably at it for five or six hours. If I had to do it again, I could shorten that time by a few hours because I would just take off the T-stat housing right away, instead of wrestling with the hoses only to realize Stuttgart's version of Popeye installed mine, and they will have to be cut off to get them off.

Cheers,

DS

kromdom

Just recently bought all the parts for this project and my local indy will do it all for $570 (WP, reservoir, T-stat, belt, bleed system). Read up about low vs OEM T-stat and had decided to go with the low...but indy adamantly insisted: HECK NO, OEM only (hope I do not open a can of worms with this )

P.S. Have also been reading all the DIY articles/watched the videos and INITIALLY thought I could DIY but got had a change of heart/mind after reading some threads how it can be a PITA. Best of luck to you.

perryinva

Seriously, the decision is yours, and I don't want to start another T-stat debate either, but do a search on "Hartech" and "thermostat". It's a long article, but very thorough, and based on engineering and experience with these particular engines. You can move forward towards the end of it and read the section on cooling and design. I'm a mechanical engineer, and I had majored in Thermo-fluids, and there was NO DOUBT in my mind, and after looking at the design, that the 160F T-stat is the correct way to go. It is made by the exact same manufacturer as the OEM. The same temp T-stat is used in later Porsches with similar layout.

It's do-able, but you need a good workshop and tools, IMHO, if you don't want to drive yourself insane. My biggest gripe working on this car, is that Porsche puts things in SO tight with such limited access, for no real reason, it seems. And they love to try to use as many different connectors, fasteners, bolts, etc as is possible. The K.I.S.S. principle was obviously never taught at Stuttgart.

healey1968

This is how all (95%? of) water pumps fail - leaking at the bearings. If there's any play or noise at all, the pump should be replaced - don't wait for it to actually leak. Personally, I've never seen the impellers fail (but I know it does happen).

perryinva

Most threads about it say it is time consuming and awkward, but not overly difficult. One guy said he did it in under 3 hours. Maybe the MKIIs just are more difficult.

I see you have a MKII, too. Good luck, let us know how it goes for you. Maybe I'm just a wimp.

frisbee91

Just changed mine a few weeks ago, and had more trouble with the hoses than with the pump itself. Quick question for others:
Does anyone collect the old pump cores for remanufacture? I've got the old pump in the garage, and was going to toss it, but would prefer to recycle it in some fashion.

Kazual99

My pump started leaking yesterday so I'm changing it today. Starting in about 30 minutes...

ZX9RCAM

Mine started making noise at ~90k, so I had it replaced.

philooo

This will certainly be the only maintenance I will NOT do myself because of the weird vacuum refill thingy.
I do not own a compressor and it seems quite complex.

Too bad because I also wanted to add the third radiator while I was at it, but I am really freaked with the vacuum process.

I hope someone can make a good DIY about the vacuum process. I think I have seen it somewhere where it involves that special vacuum tool and where you put your new coolant in a big bucket ready for the sucking vacuum to push it in...

I hope you guys can talk about that part, as I think I can handle the rest.

About low temp stat, I assume this would put me in trouble with my extended warranty in case something fails, right ?

Kazual99

The vacuum refill isnt too complicated and I've refilled my system twice using it...once when a hose let go and the second when I had to replace the lower hoses with the new current parts to get a proper fit. I must say, it isnt hard, but it is not easy either...

RF5BPilot

I had mine proactively replaced by an Indy. Watching the trouble he had....and he was experienced and had the car on a lift.....I was Pleased to pay him rather than try to do it myself. He also had specialized tools to get the air out of the system afterwards.

Detoxx

Actually I found it really easy with the vacuum fill system. Purchased it when I had to replace a radiator. Will do all my cars that way to ensure all air is out of the system.

kromdom

Makes me feel "better" about my decision to assume the role of plastic mechanic for this endeavor