Dropped off 996
#16
Three Wheelin'
Unfortunately, you'll get about as many opinions as there are people here.
Were this engine mine, if he doesn't have clear evidence of significant metal being pumped throughout the engine....
I think I'd go with just the bearing & frequent oil changes for a while....unless you were going to rebuild as a 3.8 and make it a performance rebuild.
Were this engine mine, if he doesn't have clear evidence of significant metal being pumped throughout the engine....
I think I'd go with just the bearing & frequent oil changes for a while....unless you were going to rebuild as a 3.8 and make it a performance rebuild.
#17
Rocky Mountain High
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The issue with the ceramic IMS bearing is that it doesn't address the original design issues that lead to failure. It improves the bearing with better, harder materials that are less prone to wear and failure. The IMS Solution addresses the design issues.
FWIW - I'm having a new LN Engineering ceramic bearing installed this week.
FWIW - I'm having a new LN Engineering ceramic bearing installed this week.
#18
Race Director
It would be easy to misread Zanzibar's post as an indictment by Flat Six of the LN bearing...but it is my suspicion that this isn't the case. As Jake has documented, there is no shortage of ways for the M96 to die; addressing one potential mode of failure just takes (hopefully) one of those cards out of the deck.
The spectrum of IMSB positions is fascinating - at one end, we have conspiracy buffs who are in complete denial, convinced that the issue is just a ploy to sell bearing upgrades; at the other end are the uber-paranoids who will probably wind up swapping the bearing out more often than some folks replace their battery.
The spectrum of IMSB positions is fascinating - at one end, we have conspiracy buffs who are in complete denial, convinced that the issue is just a ploy to sell bearing upgrades; at the other end are the uber-paranoids who will probably wind up swapping the bearing out more often than some folks replace their battery.
#20
Bad news - IMS was about to go. He said there was metal everywhere. Gave me 2 choices
1- do a 3 month rebuild for 12-15K
1- do a 3 month rebuild for 12-15K
#21
Race Director
If you are in love with the car and want to keep it forever, #1 is the way to go.
If the car isn't going to be a family member, #2 is the ticket. It's hard to rationalize plowing $15K into a car that's worth $20-30K unless you plan onto it for a long time...
If the car isn't going to be a family member, #2 is the ticket. It's hard to rationalize plowing $15K into a car that's worth $20-30K unless you plan onto it for a long time...
Got the update today
Good news - clutch is good
Bad news - IMS was about to go. He said there was metal everywhere. Gave me 2 choices
1- do a 3 month rebuild for 12-15K
2- replace IMS, remove oil pan, flush motor, change oil every 1k for while
advantage of #1
He's from the flat 6 innovation school - it will repair all of the weaknesses of the motor and last forever, and I have a good core
advantage of #2
Cheaper
Disadvantage of #1
Expensive
Disadvantage of #2
no risk of engine blowing up and screwing up the timing, etc since I have the new bearing, but...
all the pieces of metal will never get out and lead to premature engine wear
Thoughts from the public?
Good news - clutch is good
Bad news - IMS was about to go. He said there was metal everywhere. Gave me 2 choices
1- do a 3 month rebuild for 12-15K
2- replace IMS, remove oil pan, flush motor, change oil every 1k for while
advantage of #1
He's from the flat 6 innovation school - it will repair all of the weaknesses of the motor and last forever, and I have a good core
advantage of #2
Cheaper
Disadvantage of #1
Expensive
Disadvantage of #2
no risk of engine blowing up and screwing up the timing, etc since I have the new bearing, but...
all the pieces of metal will never get out and lead to premature engine wear
Thoughts from the public?
#23
Also, luckily I knew the risks of a Porsche. If I wanted reliable transportation I would have bought a Japanese car (No offense to German car lovers - I have a BMW, Audi, and a Porsche, but you know what I mean). Just by my calculations if I drive 25K miles per year I would need 2 seats of rear tires and one set of fronts per year at $1200/year, new IMS/clutch every 50K or every 2 years for $2400 or about $1200/year, 5 oil changes per year, plugs every 2 years, brakes every 2 years, new top every 4 years, etc.
I am in $400/month after the car is paid off and before I put gas in or pay insurance.
My biggest complaint is that since finding out this news I am not as excited about the car as I was.
#24
Race Director
If you actually wind up burning through two sets of rear tires every year but only need brakes every other year, I will start an Internet campaign to legally change your name to Drift King.
#25
My biggest complaint is that since finding out this news I am not as excited about the car as I was.
#26
Race Director
I wonder how many forum members suddenly develop a keen interest in car maintenance because some guys on the forum recommend it. Seriously?
Do you guys hang out on cancer forums recommending that members become oncologists?
Do you guys hang out on cancer forums recommending that members become oncologists?
#27
Anyway. More lots of thought last night and time spent on the phone this AM. Bearing was intact but going. No engine damage, just debris that may or may not cause damage in the future.
He is replacing the IMS bearing, RMS, and I am having him do the AOS since everything I read about on this forum happens to my car. Drains? clogged, seat heater? bad part, seat power switch? check and replaced.
He can do the AOS easily since the trans is out.
He will rebuild it for me like flat 6 does - and I guess the expensive part is new sleeves in the motor and he would not give me a firm estimate on time til completion.
Looked at motormeiser in CA but did not read good reviews so passed on them.
Spoke with UFOmotorsport in CA. Read nothing but good things about them. He said he can save me a few hundred on the rebuild because of things like the new AOS. Cost at most is $7500 (and he was willing to put in writing) plus shipping - figure another $1200, so for $8700 he can do it in two weeks.
I am considering that at this point
#29
FIRE YOUR MECHANIC! You started with a working car. He clipped you for 5 grand for a clutch and a bearing. Now he wants more to "rebuild" your engine. Am I seriously the only guy on here thats going to call BULL****?!?!?
#30
Burning Brakes
Re-read the post. $5000 was the dealer quote, IMSB & clutch. His mechanic was a reasonable $1900 forthe IMSB parts & labor, and just th eprice of parts if a clutch was needed. Mechanic said clutch was fine (should be with low miles like that). mechanic is giving choices, and good ones at that.