Hurdigurdiman

Check this out with good photos. Says its for a 997 but has the same part number which you quoted .

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PORSCHE-997-...60742534872%26

tarzancoe

Can you use durametric to calibrate top?

frisbee91

I don't think the Durametric will do the top calibration. However, I seriously doubt that recalibration will be required after replacing/repairing the front latch mechanism.

Recalibration is only needed if you mess with the "sequence" of the top operation.

Hurdigurdiman

It does say somewhere not to manually move the top when it is stationary in the service mode. So make sure that the top remains in the same position all the time when you are removing and replacing the latch. You should be ok then I think. You will find out after you DIY to the end.

sjg1138

Thanks Hurdigurdiman. Yes, I noticed that ebay part. It is exactly what I need. Tempted to buy it but I may try JB welding the part back together first before I spend the $450. Or maybe a 3D scan and print. I've always wanted to try a 3D print just for the novelty of it.

sjg1138

Good to know frisbee91. I was nervous that taking out the latch would force another trip to the Dealer. I hate dealers and dont have a durametric.

sjg1138

This is a bit of a logistical problem. Going to have to put on the hard top so I can have a top on and the windows closed while the Latch is off. I assume that the top is put all the way down when the hard top is put on? Does the hard top somehow override the soft top switches to allow the windows to go up? The hardtop has never been on the car.

It turns out that only 3 screws were in place holding the Latch on the top (one is missing). Maybe this accounts for the broken plastic in the Latch (extra movement?). Another present left me by the previous mechanics.

Hurdigurdiman

You can bet the missing screw didn't help things. Yeh 3D sound like an amazing process.
Bringing up the top to the service position, removing the latch, then continuing on to the down position might not be the best of moves. The micro switches involved in the cab top operation (with the latch removed) may not let you bring up the cab again for the newly repaired latch. The hook part is then missing. Surely that move would **** up the whole operation. It would be wiser to use another vehicle when the latch is removed. I know for certain that IF you have to move that top manually THEN you have to have it calibrated at Porsche. It's not worth the gamble IMHO. Keep the car off the road as you are doing the job.

sjg1138

Wish me luck guys! I took off the Latch assembly and used plenty of JB weld along with some metal nails (reinforcement) to try to fix the broken plastic bit. Unfortunately to 3D print the broken bit I would have had to disassemble the entire Latch so I went the brute force way! Picture is below. JB Weld epoxy is the grey stuff. I'll let you know how it turns out in 24 hours when the epoxy is hard.

Hurdigurdiman

Good job so far. Did you get another screw ready for the missing one in the latch? if all fails then this is still up for offers on the ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/PORSCHE-997-...60742534872%26

sjg1138

Thanks. Yes I bought four new metric screws so I'm good to go. Tomorrow AM I should be able to put it back in. Keeping my fingers crossed that it works. Its been about 12 hours so far and the JB weld seems strong. Now that the plastic bit has metal supporting it along with the epoxy I wouldn't be surprised if it is stronger than it was originally.

sjg1138

Success!!!! I installed the Latch and the top opens and closes correctly! The epoxied broken bit seems super strong. Thanks for your help everyone!

Hurdigurdiman

Excellent news. Well done young man.

frisbee91

JF 7452

Super post and good pics!
Had a similar issue but was able to fix with super glue.
I also had to adjust the set screw for the micro switch that senses then the "flipper" hits the window frame.
Without it the latch ould start retracting when the top was only about half way up.

Marc