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Engine Case Flaking - Is this a problem?

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Old 12-16-2014, 12:26 AM
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jshalomo
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Originally Posted by alpine003
Lol. That doesn't sound professional at all. I take that back. It is professional if you're a redneck from the south. No offense to anyone.
lol...In my haste, I think I paraphrased it incorrectly...I asked if epoxy was necessary to smooth it out, and he said no...but if it made me feel better he could add a very thin layer of the stuff. I think he was just trying to appease me.
Old 12-16-2014, 12:54 AM
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Ahmet
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If I may ask how much you paid for this and where?

I’d personally feel better about some sort of coating or otherwise repair. I’m not sure if it’s necessary though.
Old 12-16-2014, 01:24 AM
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jshalomo
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Originally Posted by Ahmet
If I may ask how much you paid for this and where?

I’d personally feel better about some sort of coating or otherwise repair. I’m not sure if it’s necessary though.
Ahmet, I really wanted to get Nickies but would have blown my budget big time. I selected sleeves from LA Sleeve instead. I will send you a pm with total cost a little later.
Old 12-16-2014, 02:40 AM
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Macster
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Originally Posted by jshalomo
Oh that sucks. I think it's on the oil side of the water jacket wall, no?
Wait. My bad.

The pics are looking at the crank side of the block half not the head side.The space around the cylinder liner will not contain coolant but is just exposed to oil splash.

IOWs, the pic shows the bottom of the cylinders that extend into the crankcase.

At first I thought the view was looking down at the cylinder block from the head's point of view but I know now that I was wrong.

On the other side of the wall where the blemish is is just more crankcase space. There is no pressure and any oil that managed to pass through the wall would just find itself still inside the crankcase.

Now the one pic shows the blemish to be adjacent to a hole through which a case stud passes. This could be a leak onto that hole but I'm not sure of the ramifications.

Ask the shop what if any ramifications there would be with (possibly) porosity at these locations.

I apologize for raising what I think now is a false alarm.
Old 12-16-2014, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Macster

Wait. My bad...

I apologize for raising what I think now is a false alarm.
Macster, you have nothing to apologize for...I should have taken better pictures. I have been enjoying your posts for about 6 months now and I know for a fact you know this stuff inside and out. As this is my very first 996 engine rebuild, I appreciate your input. If it wouldn't be for this forum and advise from people like you, I would not have taken on this project.
Old 12-16-2014, 10:29 AM
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mharrison
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Originally Posted by alpine003
Lol. That doesn't sound professional at all. I take that back. It is professional if you're a redneck from the south. No offense to anyone.
You know, adding "No offense to anyone" just illustrates that you know it is offensive and don't care...
Old 12-16-2014, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by mharrison
You know, adding "No offense to anyone" just illustrates that you know it is offensive and don't care...
It's offensive to someone if they can't take a joke, hence the disclaimer.
Old 12-16-2014, 11:13 AM
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5CHN3LL
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If you're offended for being called a redneck because you use JB Weld on an engine case, you're in denial. Half of America's small-farm tractors are powered by JB Weld.

JB Steel Stik is one of the awesomest inventions known to man.
Old 12-16-2014, 12:28 PM
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LordVicious
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Originally Posted by 5CHN3LL
JB Steel Stik is one of the awesomest inventions known to man.
I can't speak for the rest of the south, but, DAMMIT 5CHN3LL stop giving our secrets away!
Old 12-16-2014, 12:51 PM
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It's offensive to someone if they can't take a joke, hence the disclaimer.
I didn't see the big deal and I'm about as South as you can get. Not sure the disclaimer helps. You may want to add it to you sig.

About the OP's case. In the pics it looks like the flaking, chipping, whatever is in several places. I can see how this would be an issue. Is this case salvageable?
Old 12-16-2014, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by KrazyK

I didn't see the big deal and I'm about as South as you can get. Not sure the disclaimer helps. You may want to add it to you sig.

About the OP's case. In the pics it looks like the flaking, chipping, whatever is in several places. I can see how this would be an issue. Is this case salvageable?
Yea, as it is on the inside of the case with no possibility of coolant/oil 'cross contamination' ... it should be fine.
Old 12-16-2014, 01:47 PM
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Well that's good news. Strictly a cosmetic issue that you can take care of.
Old 12-16-2014, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by alpine003
It's offensive to someone if they can't take a joke, hence the disclaimer.
Oh, don't get me wrong. I wasn't offended by the comment about the south. Mississippi would be a HARD place to live with skin that thin!

The "no offense" thing is just a bit of a pet peeve of mine. (Probably one of many if you ask my wife!)

It's all good Alpine!
Old 12-16-2014, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 5CHN3LL
JB Steel Stik is one of the awesomest inventions known to man.
+996

That and if I'm doing any light work not involving cars, like around the house Sugru is awesome too, along the same lines as duct tape in terms of flexibility.

http://sugru.com/

Old 12-16-2014, 03:56 PM
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5CHN3LL
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The self-curing silicone tape is a new favorite of mine. If you need to make plastic parts for non-high-temp applications, this stuff is the bomb:

Amazon.com: InstaMorph - Moldable Plastic - 12 oz Amazon.com: InstaMorph - Moldable Plastic - 12 oz

Hint: Spray the smallest amount of cooking spray into a microwave-safe bowl, and then try to wipe it all out with a paper towel. Dump however much plastic you need into the bowl, nuke for 30 seconds, and mold your part. Don't burn your fingers...**** gets hot and conducts heat like mad.


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