Engine Case Flaking - Is this a problem?
#16
lol...In my haste, I think I paraphrased it incorrectly...I asked if epoxy was necessary to smooth it out, and he said no...but if it made me feel better he could add a very thin layer of the stuff. I think he was just trying to appease me.
#17
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
If I may ask how much you paid for this and where?
I’d personally feel better about some sort of coating or otherwise repair. I’m not sure if it’s necessary though.
I’d personally feel better about some sort of coating or otherwise repair. I’m not sure if it’s necessary though.
#18
Ahmet, I really wanted to get Nickies but would have blown my budget big time. I selected sleeves from LA Sleeve instead. I will send you a pm with total cost a little later.
#19
Race Director
The pics are looking at the crank side of the block half not the head side.The space around the cylinder liner will not contain coolant but is just exposed to oil splash.
IOWs, the pic shows the bottom of the cylinders that extend into the crankcase.
At first I thought the view was looking down at the cylinder block from the head's point of view but I know now that I was wrong.
On the other side of the wall where the blemish is is just more crankcase space. There is no pressure and any oil that managed to pass through the wall would just find itself still inside the crankcase.
Now the one pic shows the blemish to be adjacent to a hole through which a case stud passes. This could be a leak onto that hole but I'm not sure of the ramifications.
Ask the shop what if any ramifications there would be with (possibly) porosity at these locations.
I apologize for raising what I think now is a false alarm.
#20
Macster, you have nothing to apologize for...I should have taken better pictures. I have been enjoying your posts for about 6 months now and I know for a fact you know this stuff inside and out. As this is my very first 996 engine rebuild, I appreciate your input. If it wouldn't be for this forum and advise from people like you, I would not have taken on this project.
#21
Burning Brakes
#22
#23
Race Director
If you're offended for being called a redneck because you use JB Weld on an engine case, you're in denial. Half of America's small-farm tractors are powered by JB Weld.
JB Steel Stik is one of the awesomest inventions known to man.
JB Steel Stik is one of the awesomest inventions known to man.
#25
It's offensive to someone if they can't take a joke, hence the disclaimer.
About the OP's case. In the pics it looks like the flaking, chipping, whatever is in several places. I can see how this would be an issue. Is this case salvageable?
#26
I didn't see the big deal and I'm about as South as you can get. Not sure the disclaimer helps. You may want to add it to you sig.
About the OP's case. In the pics it looks like the flaking, chipping, whatever is in several places. I can see how this would be an issue. Is this case salvageable?
#28
Burning Brakes
The "no offense" thing is just a bit of a pet peeve of mine. (Probably one of many if you ask my wife!)
It's all good Alpine!
#29
+996
That and if I'm doing any light work not involving cars, like around the house Sugru is awesome too, along the same lines as duct tape in terms of flexibility.
http://sugru.com/
That and if I'm doing any light work not involving cars, like around the house Sugru is awesome too, along the same lines as duct tape in terms of flexibility.
http://sugru.com/
#30
Race Director
The self-curing silicone tape is a new favorite of mine. If you need to make plastic parts for non-high-temp applications, this stuff is the bomb:
Hint: Spray the smallest amount of cooking spray into a microwave-safe bowl, and then try to wipe it all out with a paper towel. Dump however much plastic you need into the bowl, nuke for 30 seconds, and mold your part. Don't burn your fingers...**** gets hot and conducts heat like mad.
Hint: Spray the smallest amount of cooking spray into a microwave-safe bowl, and then try to wipe it all out with a paper towel. Dump however much plastic you need into the bowl, nuke for 30 seconds, and mold your part. Don't burn your fingers...**** gets hot and conducts heat like mad.