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I've started this repair and have hit a roadblock. I figured I would replace the water pump and thermostat while I was already flushing the coolant. I got the WP and stat out but it wasn't easy - some of those bolts are a bear, also extremely tight space and was using ramps so not the best scenario. I'm waiting on some WP bolts to arrive as well as engine mounts, mine started leaking when I jacked the car up. What's the best way to clean the mating surface, can I use wire brush to remove old gasket?
I figured I would start on the radiators and see what I could get done. Here are my issues:
1. Driver side (left) wheel well liner - there is some fitting that i absolutely cannot remove, it is in a recessed hole and it is keeping the entire liner in place, does anyone know how to remove this damn thing?
2. Front wheel lugs are overtightened and I cannot get them free, since I don't have any coolant or a belt I can't start the car to turn the wheels - this repair cannot be done without removing the wheels
3. I have not found any DIY guide on this repair other than the Pelican article which is only like 6 pictures and not helpful at all, it seems the C4S may have a different replacement procedure. I got as far as removing the condensers but after that I'm stuck.
4. Please send help, I think I'm in over my head and too far into this to turn back
I think it may be a bit safer to just deal with the water pump and thermostat first then at least you can drive the car afterwards (to a shop in the worst case).
You can use a copper wire brush to remove the old gasket and clean up the mating surfaces but don't be surprised if you cannot clean them out 100%. Usually you can't. You can follow up with a 1000 grit sand paper. As long as it's smooth and flat it will seal well. The permatex gasket remover will also help.
I think it may be a bit safer to just deal with the water pump and thermostat first then at least you can drive the car afterwards (to a shop in the worst case).
You can use a copper wire brush to remove the old gasket and clean up the mating surfaces but don't be surprised if you cannot clean them out 100%. Usually you can't. You can follow up with a 1000 grit sand paper. As long as it's smooth and flat it will seal well. The permatex gasket remover will also help.
I was hoping you'd reply Ahsai, thanks!
To be honest, if I could get the front wheels off it wouldn't be so bad but I have limited access to the radiator hoses with the wheels there. I guess the fronts would be easier to remove if the rear wheels weren't on ramps, maybe I'll put the WP and Stat on then drop the car and try again.
I don't plan on using gasket sealant for the WP and star but what about the bolts - should any of them be coated in sealant of loctite?
In the event that I decide to let someone else tackle the rads, once I replace the WP and Stat, do I just refiil with a weak coolant solution like 1:5 or do I add the normal concentration, considering coolant will have to be flushed again.
You can filter the coolant and reuse it so it's ok to refill it to full strength.
Are both front tires on the ground? If so, you may need to use a breaker bar and possible a handle extension to carefully get them to break loose. Also, try some kroil or PB Blaster and let it sit on the lugs for awhile.
You can filter the coolant and reuse it so it's ok to refill it to full strength.
Are both front tires on the ground? If so, you may need to use a breaker bar and possible a handle extension to carefully get them to break loose. Also, try some kroil or PB Blaster and let it sit on the lugs for awhile.
Yes both fronts are on the ground and chocked. I tried with a 1/2 24" breaker bar and drowned the lugs in PB. I used some 1/2" PVC pipe as an extension but the pipe pent, was planning on getting some steel pipe tomorrow.
Cool. It's annoying as heck when some shop or even the dealership over tightens the lugs. I've got a piece of metal conduit I keep to use as a cheater bar that's about 4' long and works pretty well.
Cool. It's annoying as heck when some shop or even the dealership over tightens the lugs. I've got a piece of metal conduit I keep to use as a cheater bar that's about 4' long and works pretty well.
just went to home depot and picked up 1" 4' piece of steel pipe and then used as a cheater bar extension on my breaker bar...it worked, with a significant amount of force! These lugs were on so tight that there were loud metallic cracks when they broke free, they must've been tightened to 250+ ft/lb...idiots.
That really sucks. I highly recommend replacing the lock lugs once you get them off. They are nothing but trouble.
For the water pump, you will probably need to use a 1/4 driver and U-joint swivel if I remember correctly.
On the front fastener you are having issues with, post a picture and we'll see if we can help.
These cars take a lot of patience to work on. I've had 2 hour jobs take me a week. Between learning curve, prior owner mistakes, and being 12+ yo German sports cars, there are just a lot of challenges that arise along the way.
I actually view it more like a video game though, each project is a level and there will be so many unknown obstacles I need to over come to finish it. It's only when I get in a hurry, or think it should only take "so long" that it loses its fun and I make even dummer mistakes than usual.
Just thinking on the broken lug key, I wonder if a machine shop would be able to sleeve and weld it for reinforcement. Might be quicker and stronger than ordering a new one.
You need a good impact gun for the lug bolts and that's why I suggested fixing the WP first to make your car drivable. You can just drive it to a tire shop amd ask them to remove and hand retighten with a torque wrench for you. Then get some new lug bolts like Slakker said since the old ones may have over stretched.
You can use a plastic filter to filter the old coolant and reuse before you can replace it with new coolant.
The WP bolts should all be replaced with new (two are longer than the others). You also want to apply blue loctite on the bolts and use an inlb torque wrench (7.5ftlb or 90 inlb). Just be careful not to overtighten and break the bolts.
Originally Posted by Slakker
Just thinking on the broken lug key, I wonder if a machine shop would be able to sleeve and weld it for reinforcement. Might be quicker and stronger than ordering a new one.
That really sucks. I highly recommend replacing the lock lugs once you get them off. They are nothing but trouble.
For the water pump, you will probably need to use a 1/4 driver and U-joint swivel if I remember correctly.
On the front fastener you are having issues with, post a picture and we'll see if we can help.
These cars take a lot of patience to work on. I've had 2 hour jobs take me a week. Between learning curve, prior owner mistakes, and being 12+ yo German sports cars, there are just a lot of challenges that arise along the way.
I actually view it more like a video game though, each project is a level and there will be so many unknown obstacles I need to over come to finish it. It's only when I get in a hurry, or think it should only take "so long" that it loses its fun and I make even dummer mistakes than usual.
Yeah I don't think the WP will be much of an issue, just need to take my time. I will definitely be replacing the wheel locks, guess I'll get some lugs off eBay to replace.
Exactly, this shouldn't be THAT hard. I've done similar jobs on my other vehicles without some of the annoying obstacles that im running into now. I was hoping that I'd finish this job in a weekend now I've been tinkering with it for a week...
Originally Posted by Slakker
Just thinking on the broken lug key, I wonder if a machine shop would be able to sleeve and weld it for reinforcement. Might be quicker and stronger than ordering a new one.
I was going to use JB weld and a vice to see if that would work. It's cast iron so may be a more involved welding job?
Originally Posted by Ahsai
You need a good impact gun for the lug bolts and that's why I suggested fixing the WP first to make your car drivable. You can just drive it to a tire shop amd ask them to remove and hand retighten with a torque wrench for you. Then get some new lug bolts like Slakker said since the old ones may have over stretched.
You can use a plastic filter to filter the old coolant and reuse before you can replace it with new coolant.
The WP bolts should all be replaced with new (two are longer than the others). You also want to apply blue loctite on the bolts and use an inlb torque wrench (7.5ftlb or 90 inlb). Just be careful not to overtighten and break the bolts.
I should've listened, you were right
Thanks for the link, just ordered. I have ordered new WP bolts they will be in next week. I've read mixed opinions regarding gasket sealant, I have both permatex WP and thermostat sealant as well as permatex # 2, or should I just install gasket dry to WP and thermostat? If there's a clean smooth mating surface I dont see the problem, thoughts?
You're right. No sealant should be used. As long as you prep the mating surface like I said, the stock gasket is more than enough. Note the stock gasket is not flat. It will compress to provide a good seal.
Originally Posted by GTsilber
Yeah I don't think the WP will be much of an issue, just need to take my time. I will definitely be replacing the wheel locks, guess I'll get some lugs off eBay to replace.
Exactly, this shouldn't be THAT hard. I've done similar jobs on my other vehicles without some of the annoying obstacles that im running into now. I was hoping that I'd finish this job in a weekend now I've been tinkering with it for a week...
I was going to use JB weld and a vice to see if that would work. It's cast iron so may be a more involved welding job?
I should've listened, you were right
Thanks for the link, just ordered. I have ordered new WP bolts they will be in next week. I've read mixed opinions regarding gasket sealant, I have both permatex WP and thermostat sealant as well as permatex # 2, or should I just install gasket dry to WP and thermostat? If there's a clean smooth mating surface I dont see the problem, thoughts?
12-01-2016, 10:11 AM
