First track outing
#46
Maybe it's a different in shock design, but Pwdr, your drop link mounts appear to be between the threaded collars, but the pictures directly above (Ohlins setup) appear to show the collar sitting on the wheel carrier...?
Surely this increases the height that the shock mounts into the carrier?
Last edited by philrob1; 01-17-2024 at 07:55 PM.
#47
Nordschleife Master
Should not matter where the mount is. U can make up the length in the adjustable sway links. Honestly mine should be like his as my links r pretty much at the minimum length. The tarett brackets r threaded so im using them as the stop along with the collar above. It does not effect height of car if there are in either position. U would just set your height using either as the stop.
I think that answers your question?
I think that answers your question?
#48
Maybe it's a different in shock design, but Pwdr, your drop link mounts appear to be between the threaded collars, but the pictures directly above (Ohlins setup) appear to show the collar sitting on the wheel carrier...?
Surely this increases the height that the shock mounts into the carrier?
Surely this increases the height that the shock mounts into the carrier?
Last edited by powdrhound; 01-18-2024 at 04:33 AM.
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changster123 (01-18-2024)
#49
Rennlist Member
Many good advice here 👍🏻❤️. Anyway imo rather then start adding mods I would keep it stock and if any stock items are possible to rebuild back to stock specs I go that route. Since this is your first outing I get it to stock spec suspension and all and do baseline track times and record track times THEN start adding if you think you almost maximized what stock can do. But I agree suspension add insult are key to a beautiful track car that makes you learn. Best learning experience ever 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻. Enjoy!!!
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changster123 (01-21-2024)
#50
Racer
Thread Starter
Many good advice here 👍🏻❤️. Anyway imo rather then start adding mods I would keep it stock and if any stock items are possible to rebuild back to stock specs I go that route. Since this is your first outing I get it to stock spec suspension and all and do baseline track times and record track times THEN start adding if you think you almost maximized what stock can do. But I agree suspension add insult are key to a beautiful track car that makes you learn. Best learning experience ever 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻. Enjoy!!!
#52
Racer
Thread Starter
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changster123 (01-23-2024)
#54
Racer
Thread Starter
#55
There were two front subframes for the street 996 cars, one for cars through 2001 and one for 2002 and later. They are NOT interchangeable. In other words, all front subframes on the 2002 and later 996GT2/3/TT/Cup are the same. The 996RSR used the same subframe casting but the LCA attachment point was milled and drilled 7mm higher resulting in higher roll centers to account for the lower ride height of the RSR. I had a few of these but sold them a couple of years ago. They are now NLA.
With that said, the standard 996 front subframe is perfectly fine. That is what I actually switched to from the RSR front subframe. We went even further on my car and lowered the roll center even more by using the short outer trunnion pin on the RSR LCAs. This helped with improving turning and mid corner understeer.
The rear standard subframes are shared between the 996GT2/3/Cup. The RSR again had a subframe milled with higher pick up points to account for the huge 710 rear tires. I am running the rear RS subframe which for all intents and purposes is the same as the standard subframe. The pick up points appear to be identical or nearly identical but the subframe is milled in areas for more clearance. I do not think there is much if anything to be gained by changing out the rear subframes from the standard to RS unless you want to do I for "completeness" of the conversion. With that said, the rear RS subframe's were actually very cheap years ago if I recall, around $1K for the pair.
The front 997 subframe does NOT fit a 996 tub.
Hope that helps.
With that said, the standard 996 front subframe is perfectly fine. That is what I actually switched to from the RSR front subframe. We went even further on my car and lowered the roll center even more by using the short outer trunnion pin on the RSR LCAs. This helped with improving turning and mid corner understeer.
The rear standard subframes are shared between the 996GT2/3/Cup. The RSR again had a subframe milled with higher pick up points to account for the huge 710 rear tires. I am running the rear RS subframe which for all intents and purposes is the same as the standard subframe. The pick up points appear to be identical or nearly identical but the subframe is milled in areas for more clearance. I do not think there is much if anything to be gained by changing out the rear subframes from the standard to RS unless you want to do I for "completeness" of the conversion. With that said, the rear RS subframe's were actually very cheap years ago if I recall, around $1K for the pair.
The front 997 subframe does NOT fit a 996 tub.
Hope that helps.
996 RS Suspension Parts? - Page 2 - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums - Post 21 and quoted:
"Correct, but the longer stroke goes on a 30 degrees angle. So, the less negative camber obtained by moving the control arm in, the better reduction in bump steer. After that re-adjust for more negative camber with shims on the two pieces RS control arm (and this increases track), then re-adjust toe, because adding rear camber shims increases toe out (opposite to the front that increases toe-in)"
Last edited by philrob1; 01-30-2024 at 01:47 PM.
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changster123 (01-31-2024)
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changster123 (01-31-2024)
#57
Racer
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by rodneyr;[url=tel:19211681
19211681[/url]]Yes, the shocks can handle the stiffer springs. I have been tracking my car since 2006 and have over 150+ track days on the OEM shocks. I did upgrade to stiffer springs and will have to look up the rating. Another key is the alignment. The car is very sensitive to having the correct alignment which seems like you got that covered
#58
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
@changster123 with my car I went from stock 996 GT3 rates to Ohlins rates which are ~400 front, 800 rear. I then went up to 600 front and left the rears as they are. To get around that I would run rear sway bar on the stiffest setting versus one off full stiff on the front. The car is great on track like this. I like a responsive front end and there was too much delay in body control in fast corners with the stock and 400 front springs. The 600 definitely make for a lively front end and it’s not as good on choppy back roads, however it is more than comfortable enough to use on the street IME.
For ultimate handling performance on a track these cars are best with a closer match in front to rear spring rates IMO.
For ultimate handling performance on a track these cars are best with a closer match in front to rear spring rates IMO.
Last edited by spiller; 02-02-2024 at 06:27 PM.
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changster123 (02-02-2024)
#59
Racer
Thread Starter
@changster123 with my car I went from stock 996 GT3 rates to Ohlins rates which are ~400 front, 800 rear. I then went up to 600 front and left the rears as they are. To get around that I would run rear sway bar on the stiffest setting versus one off full stiff on the front. The car is great on track like this. I like a responsive front end and there was too much delay in body control in fast corners with the stock and 400 front springs. The 600 definitely make for a lively front end and it’s not as good on choppy back roads, however it is more than comfortable enough to use on the street IME.
For ultimate handling performance on a track these cars are best with a closer match in front to rear spring rates IMO.
For ultimate handling performance on a track these cars are best with a closer match in front to rear spring rates IMO.
#60
There were two front subframes for the street 996 cars, one for cars through 2001 and one for 2002 and later. They are NOT interchangeable. In other words, all front subframes on the 2002 and later 996GT2/3/TT/Cup are the same. The 996RSR used the same subframe casting but the LCA attachment point was milled and drilled 7mm higher resulting in higher roll centers to account for the lower ride height of the RSR. I had a few of these but sold them a couple of years ago. They are now NLA.
With that said, the standard 996 front subframe is perfectly fine. That is what I actually switched to from the RSR front subframe. We went even further on my car and lowered the roll center even more by using the short outer trunnion pin on the RSR LCAs. This helped with improving turning and mid corner understeer.
The rear standard subframes are shared between the 996GT2/3/Cup. The RSR again had a subframe milled with higher pick up points to account for the huge 710 rear tires. I am running the rear RS subframe which for all intents and purposes is the same as the standard subframe. The pick up points appear to be identical or nearly identical but the subframe is milled in areas for more clearance. I do not think there is much if anything to be gained by changing out the rear subframes from the standard to RS unless you want to do I for "completeness" of the conversion. With that said, the rear RS subframe's were actually very cheap years ago if I recall, around $1K for the pair.
The front 997 subframe does NOT fit a 996 tub.
Hope that helps.
With that said, the standard 996 front subframe is perfectly fine. That is what I actually switched to from the RSR front subframe. We went even further on my car and lowered the roll center even more by using the short outer trunnion pin on the RSR LCAs. This helped with improving turning and mid corner understeer.
The rear standard subframes are shared between the 996GT2/3/Cup. The RSR again had a subframe milled with higher pick up points to account for the huge 710 rear tires. I am running the rear RS subframe which for all intents and purposes is the same as the standard subframe. The pick up points appear to be identical or nearly identical but the subframe is milled in areas for more clearance. I do not think there is much if anything to be gained by changing out the rear subframes from the standard to RS unless you want to do I for "completeness" of the conversion. With that said, the rear RS subframe's were actually very cheap years ago if I recall, around $1K for the pair.
The front 997 subframe does NOT fit a 996 tub.
Hope that helps.
Thanks is for sharing your vast knowledge as always 👍