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Coilpacks & Plugs

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Old 03-20-2024, 07:29 PM
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XavierLaFlamme
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Default Coilpacks & Plugs

I am looking for some current info on doing coilpacks and plugs. I have done the job on my Cayman R and S recently. Easy.

On my 993 it was annoying. The plugs on the passenger side closest to the firewall pretty much destroyed my hands. Of course that is a distributor type system so it is a bit different.

Any helpful tips from guys/gals who have recently done it. I am just looking for cautions/gotchas etc so I don't suffer while reinventing the wheel.

Thanks for any tips.
--Michael

Last edited by XavierLaFlamme; 03-22-2024 at 08:35 AM.
Old 03-20-2024, 07:45 PM
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ScottArizona
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I recently did my coil packs too. No issues, but figured it was time given that I am at 80k miles on the original coil packs. Plus, the latest versions are updated (they required longer bolts because the coil packs themselves are thicker at the base, so make sure wherever you order they come with the longer hardware). I have no side mufflers so it literally took me 20 minutes per side. I think you can still squeeze in there to do this job without removing the side mufflers, but it will be a little tight.

Also, just as fyi, rennline sells an "upgraded" coil pack for our cars (supposedly puts out a little more juice). they were about the same price as oem so I went with them and they work great.
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Old 03-20-2024, 07:56 PM
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Thanks Scott. Good info. I appreciate it.
Old 03-20-2024, 09:51 PM
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Doing this on a 996 GT3? There are some good 'how to' videos out there and plenty more bad ones.

Most people recommend raising the rear of the car a bit and removing both rear wheels for access.

Engine at room temperature.



Proper tools are needed:

- 5/8” spark plug socket 3/8” drive with magnet or soft insert to hold the spark plug, workshop manual says S9706 tool, Husky brand Home Depot 5/8” is a good one

- 3/8” drive ratchet small (short length but not a stubby), flexible head is a good option to have

- several 3/8” drive extensions: two 1.5” long, two 3” long, one 6” long

- low torque range, small torque wrench, one with flexible head 3/8” drive works best (access limited)

- 10 mm socket 3/8” drive

- 5 mm hex bit socket 3/8” drive

-----------

heat shield bolted to camshaft housing – 10 Nm (7.5 lb-ft) ? most M6 bolts into aluminum are 10 Nm

ignition coil to camshaft housing - 10 Nm (7.5 lb-ft)

newspark plug - 30 Nm (22 lb-ft)

used spark plug - 25 Nm (19 lb-ft)

No lubricant on the spark plug threads.



-

Last edited by enthusiast; 03-24-2024 at 03:00 PM. Reason: added more information
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Old 03-21-2024, 09:49 PM
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brontosaurus
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Originally Posted by ScottArizona
I recently did my coil packs too. No issues, but figured it was time given that I am at 80k miles on the original coil packs. Plus, the latest versions are updated (they required longer bolts because the coil packs themselves are thicker at the base, so make sure wherever you order they come with the longer hardware). I have no side mufflers so it literally took me 20 minutes per side. I think you can still squeeze in there to do this job without removing the side mufflers, but it will be a little tight.

Also, just as fyi, rennline sells an "upgraded" coil pack for our cars (supposedly puts out a little more juice). they were about the same price as oem so I went with them and they work great.
You can definitely do the coil packs with the mufflers in there -- I just did mine this past winter with the updated thicker design Bosch units. I did not change the plugs as they had been done relatively recently so I can't speak to doing those with the mufflers in, but IIRC it should be doable, if a bit tight.



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