4carl

need to do a flush is this stuff any good? thanks carl

mooty

yes, it's great. i bleed after every 200 track miles with this fluid. never had soft pedals.

some use castro SRF and never bleed for the season. i never tried SRF.

Blackbird

My bet is the stock fluid works just fine unless you're racing or driving the car in a similarly demanding manner. If you're doing occaisional track days and DEs you could probably go a year between flushes though it's better to bleed some fliud after every track weekend.
The discs are so big....they dissipate a lot of heat. Then you have the brake ducting that helps as well.
Has anyone on this board ever had the brake pedal go soft in one of these cars?

brucegre

Oh yeah. the stock pads and fluid don't stand up that well under "spirited" track driving. On the street, there is no question that stock is the way to go, but on the track I've sponged the pedal almost to the floor with stock fluid, and I'm not the hardest guy around on the brakes.

I like SRF, my crew chief likes Motul, so I run Motul in the Cup car and SRF in the GT3. Pagid RS-19 or RS-29 pads front and rear, and the Brembo floating rotors in the front. For the track. Leave it stock if it spends all of its time on the street.

Bruce

AW

Yes. I lost my brakes (pedal to the floor) several times at Laguna Seca. This was with a 996 TT. Laguna is hard on brakes! Using Motul 600 and religiously replacing pads when there is 4mm left cured this problem.

In my opinion, I don't see the downside in using the top brake fluid available. It is a little more expensive but compared to the price of our cars, this is irrelevant.

AW

LanceK

I use Motul on my kart with great results. Not sure if you can compare, but the karts' brakes get way more abuse than my car...

SPR

Regarding the SRF v. Motul 600. I was in this same dilema when I put on my 14" kit. SRF what like 80 bucks v. 12 bucks??
I went with SRF since the wet boiling point is almost as high as the dry. The result is that you arguably don't have to change it out as often and/or don't have diminished performance as greatly over time from leaving it in and not bleeding it out often.
I also use the motive bleeder which works great.
Make sure to bleed the clutch if it's in the system, i.e. non turbo or c4s (I think).
There is a great write up on renntech- I believe the clutch fits in: RR, clutch, LR, RF, LF. I cannot believe that I have seen may "professionals" do it the wrong way.

Do yourself a favor and swap out the stock brake lines with DOT/TUV stainless braided lines you won't be sorry- just use the special LINE wrench and plenty of penetrating lube so you can get them off. The rears didn't want to budge probably from the heat cycling from being so close to the mufflers/engine.