va122

Entirely possible. I had that issue once.

MichM3

have an appointment for new geo this Friday

NJcroc

On a general note, when you corner balance a car it is never even in height or you would use a ruler instead of scales. If the alignment is indeed right then I would keep looking at the tires as the issue. Can you swap a set with a friend?

va122

are they aligning it with your weight in the drivers seat? Once a shop "forgot" and it was all wacked out

MichM3

I don't know what they have done...mis-alignment? faulty corner weighting, with or without driver weight?...don't know. That's why I'm really lookin' forward to Friday.

Anyway, later on this year I'll make an appointment at Manthey to have it done at their service plant. Probably in the week before the Manthey trackday at the Ring in June

rodneyr

Wow, I just had a similar issue. My car pulled to the right especially when I took my hands off the wheel. So, I had the car aligned and the machine was recently calibrated. Well, after the alignment still the same issue. The shop suggested putting on the stock PS2 instead of the old Cups I had on the car.

Well, I did a short road test and the pulling to the right seemed to go away. So, at least in my case the tires seemed to be the issue and not the alignment. I will have to check again when the new Cups are on to really confirm the issue was totally resolved.

MichM3

thank you very much!!! will try out the tire swap!

Bob Rouleau

If tires are worn more on one side of the car, it will cause a pull to one side. I had a similar problem with one rear tire which was worn more than the other due to our clock-wise circuit. The car would pull to one side under acceleration and then the other way when I let off the gas.

MichM3

Hi guys,

yesterday it was a stressy day for me but in the end it started to pay-off... Since the moment I purchased my 6RS, it pulls to the right quite severely. Yesterday I had an appointment with a small workshop here in Belgium where the mechanics have a good idea on these cars (they drive a 6RS and 6Cup there own)

A resumé of the day:

- they found that the bolt right rear for adjusting toe was nearly end of life and prone to change toe itself under certain stress
=> replaced bolts at each side
=> geometry check
=> problem of pulling to right not solved

- left front lower suspension arm seamed to be from a cup where the equivalent on the right side was the factory 6RS part. (Cup part disposes of 2 holes which enables you to adapt castor)
=> geometry check
=> problem still not solved

- test ride an another set of tires
=> problem still there

- checking the steering rack then. Lift the car a bit higher but keep contact with wheels on the ground. Turn steering wheel from side to side...bizar, as the wheel really tends to turn to the right itself!!! I had to put bigger force turning to left than turning right ...Was the steering rack faulty? did the car has had an accident on the left front wheel (regarding different suspension part) and had the steering rack suffered from that? On that I called the previous owner (German) and asked about accident damage but he was negative on that (and I know he doesn't lie for that)...besides, all panels on my rs are still the original let alone for front and rear bumper.

- Then one of the mechanics came up with the idea of detaching the front roll bar. When I went out for a run, the car really had changed. I didn't pull anymore.

- Afterwards I demanded they also lowered the right rear side as the coilover was 15mm higher at that wheel and the left front side was quite low as well. Testride confirmed the car drove even better!

- Then they attached the front ARB again, went out for a ride and the car indeed drove a lot better, still an intention to pull to the right but far less than before.


Conclusion: we assume the ARB is under stress when attached and is the cause of pulling the car to the right. I think the car has been corner weighted with its ARB's attached instead of detached.
So, in the next weeks the guys will corner weight my car the way it should:

- ARB's detached
- on the scales
- attach ARB's
- geometry

The only thing that concers me a bit is the moment when they will attach the ARB's after the car has been corner-wieghted...
=> what if the ARB's won't be a straight attach. What I want to say: could it be that the ARB's will stress when attaching (like it is the case now)...if so, the only solution is an ARB attach that is variable in length, only this will eliminate ARB stress.

did you guys heard such problem before? Do you know any GT3 driving an ARB attach with variable length because of this?? Honestly spoken I doubt it..I think after proper corner-weighing the attaching of ARB's shouldn't be a problem.

GT3 Chuck

all stock GT3 ARBs are pre-loaded...you can get adjustable drop links to remove the pre-load...I doubt the bar is causing your steering issue but if the corner balance was completed with the ARB attached that could be...good luck

MichM3

ok thanks!

Leigh2

I just had mine corner balanced and there was pre-load on the rear bar, none on the front. Enough to throw the cross weight off by 2% but an adjustable link took care of the problem. Glad you have your problem identified and the fix in the works.

MichM3

Leigh2 I'm very keen on solving this...will keep you guys posted on this subject!

...First ordering those adjustable drop links and hen making an appointment for corner weighing and fitting them.

enthusiast

Don't forget to have correct driver's weight in drivers seat and decide on the fuel load you want during corner balance. I use half a load of fuel for that.