tom__w

I got a quote of $4,900 to weld my pipes and replace all the plastic bits. Was also offered a 'winter price' of $3,900.

Thoughts on a car that I probably never track?

kamlung

save the money for something else...

s65e90

Do it. Plan to do all the rubber o-rings and seals while the engine is out along with all the other rubber bits. Coolant fittings failing has nothing to do w/ track use. Plenty have failed just sitting at stop lights. It's good peace of mind that will also be worthwhile to a prospective buyer should you ever wish to sell.

Carlo_Carrera

Personally if the car isn't tracked I would not bother welding the pipes, but the decision is really yours. $3,900 is a very good price for that work in the northern NJ area.

tom__w

I was quoted $8k-$9k by another shop. Now THAT was excessive.

This quote also includes using billet aluminum piping (i.e. not re-using the original thin wall pipe).

s65e90

Misinforming that this only affects track cars.

2fcknfst

As we have all discussed in the past, 'age' and epoxy 'degradation' is now going to become the primary factor in coolant tube failures, not track use.

This will become more and more prominent in the coming years, we are already seeing evidence of this.

So, if you have the means, get it fixed now, save yourself the headaches later.

Giovanni

New owner here... lol. It is possible, "almost" impossible or totally impossible to remove the coolant housing without dropping the engine/transmission? I am pretty handy and have been thinking of just removing the housing and take it to a nearby aluminum welding shop to get the job done.

2fcknfst

Someone has done it - I saw a thread on it awhile back - however, I (for one) would never blindly drill in a congested engine compartment, 'hoping' everything will turn out 'ok'...

Third-Reef

You can pin 6 of 8 in about 4 hours with the engine in. the last 2 under the oil cooler add another several hours. If they have not moved in the their position, IE started backing out or showing any signs of leaking, pinning is 100% OK (flame suit on). Sharkwerks recommends pinning and they are not the types to take short cuts. I bet that $3,900 could be half if they pinned the fittings instead of welding.

2fcknfst

+1 ... I always get worried about welding two different metals, one of which is cast. You have to be steady, and good so as not to melt everything.

Giovanni

I can live with pin and epoxy them in place but I would need to remove the housing. But if I remove the housing I may as well get it welded in and pressure test for leaks. Once it's out everything is easy peasy. I am not a paranoid dude but I would not drill and run the risk of pieces of aluminum flowing through the coolant circuit and increase the chance of premature damage. So can the housing be take off with the engine in place?

s65e90

Pinning won't stop leaking, only prevents a catastrophic blow out. Welding > pinning.

Third-Reef

Correct pinning will not stop leaking, but if it is not leaking it will stop it from starting to leak with about 99.9% certainty. You do not have to remove the housings to pin them.

911mhawk

Verify who's welding, and what "all" means.
Not sure about your hood, but the shops I know around here are too busy to cut deals and have overhead.

If all checks out, and they're being nice on cost, do all the "while it's out" stuff you can afford to update if you plan to keep it long term.
Or, wait till one pops/you need a clutch.