pfbz

If you want to LYFAO get a quote at a local dealer for a four-corner full brake service with rotors, pads, flush, etc....

k9turbo

i hear ya. my FP failed on the fwy awhile back and even though i knew exactly what it was, had to have it towed since the local dealership was only a cpl miles away and i couldn't get to my pal's to DIY it. my pocket is still recovering but they did give me some weird dealer coupon discounts since i actually argued with the service tech about. you guessed it - "book time" vs "real time". saved a cpl bucks, but not much. iirc? a fp parts and labor. $1100+! criminal lol

pancing

Something like 5.5k at porsche south orlando.
The "premier" Central florida porsche dealership.

On a side note i have the generator replacement from po records... Something like 2k installed in 2011 i think. 997 part.

pancing

Eh its not bad, fp is 500$ venturi lines 300$ "$pecialty" tool (chizel and hammer) 100$ gasket 12$ box of rags and cleaner 20$. Diy. Thats how much it cost me minus the tool.

wkf94025

Sorry, what is FP?

EDIT: fuel pump. Duh. That question was pre-first-coffee.

Agree with all the above on DIY economics. Partly why I was searching price of brushes only -- wanting the DIY out of pocket to be an extremely small % of the bend-over-at-the-dealer cost ($4 / $3,000). That said, I am replacing the voltage regulator with new.

k9turbo

100% as to the VR ( not to be confused with the FP lol ) some here have had success with just r&r'ing it ( and yeah only 40 bucks ) but i've long been a believer that the labor to redo the alt in case it was not just the vr makes a one time r&r of the entire unit ( particularly if you buy the bosch "reman" ) more prudent.

just my take.

FRUNKenstein

Just minimal wrenching skills can save you a lot of $$ with these cars.

johnsjmc

Over the years I've come to realize routine maintenance parts like brake pads filters etc are usually available aftermarket at reasonable prices. The outrageous prices parts are the items not usually replaced.
In1987 I bought a 1986 911 with a missing cigarette lighter. The dealer wanted $1200 for a new one. I discovered the lighter from a 1975 VW beetle was identical for $15 ,same **** etc but the picture of the cigarette was slightly different.

johnsjmc

On another topic I noticed a picture you have showing a rear tire size of 315. The recommended size is a 295. If you have a different diameter front to back you will overheat the viscous clutch between and it might also have contributed to your abs ,psm fault warning lights

wkf94025

Thanks for pointing that out. Will investigate. Maybe need to go 2WD until I can DIY a temp sensor into the viscous clutch unit. ;-)

Anyone else running differential diameters front to back?

EDIT: I recall my date codes on the front are circa 2013, so perhaps something to be addressed when I re-shoe the horse next.

johnsjmc

I don't know what size you are running on the front I saw a recommendation is for less than 3% variation in revolutions per mile front to back.
No need for a temp sensor better to size your tires appropriate to the cars needs. It's pretty universal to use the same size tires on all 4 corners of a 4x4. With staggered sizes the required sizes aim for the same revolutions per.mile. Your car set a warning related to psm or abs. My point was there may be an underlying problem created by a conflict between relative speeds of the front and back wheels.

k9turbo

in case the lockdown continues well into the next month as i'm sure it will in CA. here's a lengthy debate on tire ratio aspects and the potential for harm by using unmatched tire sizes ( if still awd ) or as you say wkf simply go rwd and enjoy "mismatched" tires as i do there is no obvious consensus as such but it's is generally agreed upon ( wait, you mean it's not?! lol ) that as long as one stays with a 3% differential in rolling diameter ratio front x rear. you'd be fine.

after continual beatings however, the horse died though before anyone's viscous coupler did. i kid.\

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ire-se-up.html

pfbz

Yes, the front/rear tire diameter ratio is critical, but that doesn't mean you need to run a 295 in the rear. I'm running 245/40-18 fronts (25.6") and 315/30-18 rears (25.5").

That gives a perfect front/rear ratio, with the fronts being just a tiny bit taller to correctly bias the viscous coupler.

johnsjmc

I couldn't see the front tire size when I posted. You can select larger tires and maintain the correct split as posted above
just thought you should be aware and check it out

wkf94025

Quick and dirty string method around front and rear tires shows 1" difference over ~77" circumference, so I think I'm within the 3% ballpark pretty handily. If lockdown boredom continues, I'll drive up and down the driveway ten revolutions on each wheel with index mark, and tape the entire distance covered in 10 revs for more precision. Then repeat on passenger's side for additional data points. ;-)