When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I discovered a tiny leak (fluid) on the passenger side hydraulic of the rear spoiler. I wonder if it means just to replace the hydraulic/hinge or I have to replace the entire system?
Everyone will have their opinion, but I prefer to keep the stock system so I would replace individual parts as needed. Failure of one does not mean the rest will soon follow. Mine was inop a few years ago and all it needed was new washers, cleaning and re-fill. 16 YO system still working fine with what I believe are all original parts.
I discovered a tiny leak (fluid) on the passenger side hydraulic of the rear spoiler. I wonder if it means just to replace the hydraulic/hinge or I have to replace the entire system?
Thanks!
i posted the DIY step by step how to on 6spd for you. cheers.
if you do try the re-bleed? make sure the banjo bolts are snug when you button it up - frequent source of weepage if seals and all still have intergrity.
Mine is leaking and kicking the error code. One side comes to full extension while the other is 1/8th inch lower. The Rennkit is on my short list when I pull the trigger.
1. Open rear deck-lid with spoiler in down position
2. Put towels/plastic over the engine to keep fluids from dripping onto engine or body parts.
3. Remove approx. one dozen bolts that retain shroud/fan to deck-lid
4. Loosen and remove 4 retaining acorn style nuts that hold pump onto shroud
5. Cut tie wraps that retain electrical wires and hydralic lines so pump can be removed
6. Lift pump off shroud, loosen and remove banjo fittings on driver's side of pump watch for fluid to leak out and catch in a paper towel or rag. I held pump with channel locks for a good hold while loosening
7. Remove the positiive and negative wires on the opposite end of the pump.
8. Unplug sensors on passenger side ram carefully as they are sensitive. They are under a plastic cover that pulls off
9. Turn pump upside down in proper waste recepticle to empty the fluid remaining
10. With 12 volt power source, connect positive and negative to pump connectors. You will feel the torque and hear the pump motor turning, have a towel ready to catch any remaining fluids
11. With pump in hand, slowly add fluid. The Lucas product has a snout that you can cut and place into recpticle. This took approx. 20 minutes of adding, waiting for it to seep into pump, add more, wait, add more, etc...until bubbles stop coming up. Pump should then be full
12. Carefully attach banjo fittings with pump held upright. A small amount of fluid will seep when attaching banjo bolts
13. Torque the banjo bolts snug
14. Place pump onto shroud, tighten acorn nuts and connect wires
15. Connect sensors to ram (I used a tie wrap to hold sensors in place)
16. Place shroud in position on deck lid and snug up the dozen bolts
17. Tie wrap the electrical wires to the shroud
18. Actuate spoiler from dash with key on to see if you get the warning light
I went a little overboard and removed the system from the car for cleaning, copper washer replacement and gravity-assisted refill. If you mark everything so all parts point in the right direction when re-assembled, it works out just fine.
New system back from rebuilder. Install of system Torx screw location where I took out micro switches without removing holder. Got lucky no damage
Nice write up. I think most of the problems occur in the actual rams. Pump break down seems less so. In any case it is important to change the fluid in the system periodically.
I agree with you about staying original, it truly is about personal choice. I really liked the e-rams and seriously considered them. Very tempting.
I think the only thing I would change is in step 8. Remove the whole micro switch holder leaving switches mounted in the holder. They are so sensitive and can be damaged very easily. Then you would need new ones, requiring cutting and splicing. It is hard to see the black torx screws in the black holder. Take a picture with your phone to see the screws location within the holder. The process looks daunting but is very easy to do. My rams were leaking on both sides and I knew the pump does not hold a lot of fluid. Error warning would happen soon.
I sent my entire system out for a complete rebuild of cylinders and pump. It was cheaper than a new OEM system. I did need to buy a pin tool to remove the spoiler. Rebuilder says better than new. We will see. Car is totally drivable without the wing.
Thanks everyone for the tip. I have now debating whether to try to rebuild it myself or go with Rennkit since time is little difficult for me SIP with kids at home.
07-18-2020, 12:23 PM
996 Rear Spoiler Hydraulic
