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Old 07-21-2023, 08:02 AM
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2fcknfst
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Default Going RWD...

Last night I was considering the dynamic changes that will occur when I remove the AWD system. Benefits are fairly obvious; reduced driveline loss, lower weight, crisper handling. Disadvantages will likely be reduced traction, acceleration stability, perhaps more inclination to oversteer.

The car has been setup for GT2 alignment specs since I got it, along with GT2 sized wheels/tyres. The PSS9s are set within a 1/10th inch of ride height, cannot recall off the top of my head where the valving is set - no fancy GT2 suspension parts, however, Eibach's with poly bushings and Tarrett end links are both front and rear.

By removing some 80ish pounds from the chassis, not entirely sure exactly how much over the front axle, my thinking is it will likely benefit from one click softer on the front shocks. I am also likely going to be ordering a set of Tarrett camber plates:

Front Monoball Camber Plate (pr), 996/997 C4 or TT (tarett.com)

The reason for this is that it would appear you can offset the camber by an additional .6 of a degree, so my thinking is that I would add .5d to the GT2 alignment spec in an effort to give the front end a more planted feeling to offset the reduction of sprung weight.

Is this sound logic?

Cheers,
Old 07-21-2023, 09:32 AM
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kflee
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Originally Posted by 2fcknfst
Last night I was considering the dynamic changes that will occur when I remove the AWD system. Benefits are fairly obvious; reduced driveline loss, lower weight, crisper handling. Disadvantages will likely be reduced traction, acceleration stability, perhaps more inclination to oversteer.

The car has been setup for GT2 alignment specs since I got it, along with GT2 sized wheels/tyres. The PSS9s are set within a 1/10th inch of ride height, cannot recall off the top of my head where the valving is set - no fancy GT2 suspension parts, however, Eibach's with poly bushings and Tarrett end links are both front and rear.

By removing some 80ish pounds from the chassis, not entirely sure exactly how much over the front axle, my thinking is it will likely benefit from one click softer on the front shocks. I am also likely going to be ordering a set of Tarrett camber plates:

Front Monoball Camber Plate (pr), 996/997 C4 or TT (tarett.com)

The reason for this is that it would appear you can offset the camber by an additional .6 of a degree, so my thinking is that I would add .5d to the GT2 alignment spec in an effort to give the front end a more planted feeling to offset the reduction of sprung weight.

Is this sound logic?

Cheers,
I am in the process of going RWD as well and have made similar decisions as you... I am no expert, but went down the path of modifying a C5 Z06 learning a lot along the way. Recently moved to the 996 Turbo (long time dream car). I am doing Wavetrac rear diff, Tarret top mounts front and rear (0.6 degrees extra camber up front), Tarret drop links front and rear, Tarret rear toe arms, and Ohlins Road & Track coilovers. I did go with a slightly lighter spring up front. They normally come with 70N/mm front and 120N/mm rear. I dropped the front to 60N/mm. I did this for two reasons... A little lighter front end and it should give me a little better front grip. I will start with stock sway bars front and rear. Will add the H&R adjustable rear bar to dial in balance if I think it is needed.

Kirk

Old 07-21-2023, 09:50 AM
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I'm not going to be changing the springs, they are sufficient for my driving style, and, the condition of the roads around here.

Going with a lighter front spring as you are doing will most certainly make the front end more compliant, my hope is that I will achieve the same effect by removing a click of compression dampening out of the front end. The Ohlin's are very highly regarded, could you not achieve the same compliance by dialing out compression?
Old 07-21-2023, 10:28 AM
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kflee
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Originally Posted by 2fcknfst
I'm not going to be changing the springs, they are sufficient for my driving style, and, the condition of the roads around here.

Going with a lighter front spring as you are doing will most certainly make the front end more compliant, my hope is that I will achieve the same effect by removing a click of compression dampening out of the front end. The Ohlin's are very highly regarded, could you not achieve the same compliance by dialing out compression?
Possibly/probably... Ideally you dial in your balance with spring rate or more specifically wheel rate (combination of springs, sway bars, and suspension geometry). Shock damping controls the movement after compression. In reality I think damping does add some "spring rate" on compression and can be used to dial in balance.

Experts, please chime in!

Thanks,
Kirk
Old 07-21-2023, 10:36 AM
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Just fyi, 60 N/mm and 120 N/mm converts to 343 lb/in and 685 lb/in. I believe the Bilstein's come with 260 lb/in front and 515 lb/in rear. A friend with PSS10's changed his rear springs to 672 lb/in and H&R rear bar to full stiff. Much better balance after the change!
Old 07-21-2023, 10:43 AM
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The "benefits" of an RWD conversion will never be fully realized on a street car in street driving conditions.

Au contraire.
Old 07-21-2023, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Lazurus
The "benefits" of an RWD conversion will never be fully realized on a street car in street driving conditions.

Au contraire.
If I can hit 30mpg at cruise on the highway, it'll be a win for me.
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Old 07-21-2023, 12:38 PM
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I don't get anywhere near that kind of mpg, going rwd certainly isn't going to make it happen. I dunno, I've been sitting on the stub axles to go rwd for awhile now. Honestly I don't think it's all that, it doesn't get in the way on the track and it's nice to have on the street. Even if you do get 30 mpg on the freeway, how much money in fuel is that actually going to save you? Certainly not enough to recoup the costs of doing it, not for years and years...
Old 07-21-2023, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 2fcknfst
If I can hit 30mpg at cruise on the highway, it'll be a win for me.
Averaged 26-27mpg at 65-70mph with the GT2 bumper/wing at max downforce after RWD.
Old 07-21-2023, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 2fcknfst
Last night I was considering the dynamic changes that will occur when I remove the AWD system. Benefits are fairly obvious; reduced driveline loss, lower weight, crisper handling. Disadvantages will likely be reduced traction, acceleration stability, perhaps more inclination to oversteer.

The car has been setup for GT2 alignment specs since I got it, along with GT2 sized wheels/tyres. The PSS9s are set within a 1/10th inch of ride height, cannot recall off the top of my head where the valving is set - no fancy GT2 suspension parts, however, Eibach's with poly bushings and Tarrett end links are both front and rear.

By removing some 80ish pounds from the chassis, not entirely sure exactly how much over the front axle, my thinking is it will likely benefit from one click softer on the front shocks. I am also likely going to be ordering a set of Tarrett camber plates:

Front Monoball Camber Plate (pr), 996/997 C4 or TT (tarett.com)

The reason for this is that it would appear you can offset the camber by an additional .6 of a degree, so my thinking is that I would add .5d to the GT2 alignment spec in an effort to give the front end a more planted feeling to offset the reduction of sprung weight.

Is this sound logic?

Cheers,
Verify that the Tarrett upper mounts do NOT ad stack height v. OEM. If I'm not mistaken they do which is not what you want as it takes away from shock travel with is at a premium already with PSS9/10s.

Last edited by powdrhound; 07-21-2023 at 01:04 PM.
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Old 07-21-2023, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by kflee
I am in the process of going RWD as well and have made similar decisions as you... I am no expert, but went down the path of modifying a C5 Z06 learning a lot along the way. Recently moved to the 996 Turbo (long time dream car). I am doing Wavetrac rear diff, Tarret top mounts front and rear (0.6 degrees extra camber up front), Tarret drop links front and rear, Tarret rear toe arms, and Ohlins Road & Track coilovers. I did go with a slightly lighter spring up front. They normally come with 70N/mm front and 120N/mm rear. I dropped the front to 60N/mm. I did this for two reasons... A little lighter front end and it should give me a little better front grip. I will start with stock sway bars front and rear. Will add the H&R adjustable rear bar to dial in balance if I think it is needed.

Kirk
The H&R sway bar is solid and way too stiff to use in combination with the OEM front noodle. It makes the car borderline dangerous when driven at the limit even when set full soft. I tried it many years ago. I would use the OEM GT3 4-way rear bar in combination with the OEM GT3 5-way front bar.

Last edited by powdrhound; 07-21-2023 at 12:55 PM.
Old 07-21-2023, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by docwyte
I don't get anywhere near that kind of mpg, going rwd certainly isn't going to make it happen. I dunno, I've been sitting on the stub axles to go rwd for awhile now. Honestly I don't think it's all that, it doesn't get in the way on the track and it's nice to have on the street. Even if you do get 30 mpg on the freeway, how much money in fuel is that actually going to save you? Certainly not enough to recoup the costs of doing it, not for years and years...
Not so concerned with the money saved; I'm a firm believer of efficiency - the car may push 600hp, but in reality, it spends 90% of its life not doing that. In BC here, when you're on the highway, the most you can cruise at is around 140kmh before the men with pointy hats send you to jail and impound your car...most of my rides (save for the STi that drinks fuel in the city) have a very nice balance between available power when required, and nice efficient running when on the open road.

Originally Posted by TheDeckMan
Averaged 26-27mpg at 65-70mph with the GT2 bumper/wing at max downforce after RWD.
I actually saw 28mpg, but this was my last metered run over 60 miles without stopping, so this was the end average.

With the drag of the AWD leaving, and not a big wing with full downforce applied, I think I may be able to hit it...



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Old 07-21-2023, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by powdrhound
Verify that the Tarrett upper mounts do NOT ad stack height v. OEM. If I'm not mistaken they do which is not what you want as it takes away from shock travel with is at a premium already with PSS9/10s.
Yes, I'm going to give them a ring after dealing with a dead truck.


Cheers,
Old 07-21-2023, 01:04 PM
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Guess that's my issue then, speed limits here are 75mph, I'm usually doing 80-85mph. Plus when I'm heading to the track I'll pulling the tire trailer which doesn't do good things for fuel economy.

John, I may have to call you to talk about swaybars. Pretty sure I've got the stock front bar with H&R rear bar on my car...
Old 07-21-2023, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 2fcknfst
Yes, I'm going to give them a ring after dealing with a dead truck.


Cheers,
Make sure you install a proper LSD. That's key..


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