Replacement Radiators
#17
Either CSF or OEM is fine. I've always run OEM without any issues.
#18
Three Wheelin'
My radiators were weeping at the seams, sometimes enough to leave drops on the ground and make the lower back corner of the fender look greasy. When I took by bumper to clean out all the road crud that built up over the life of the car and noticed the weeping seems did the "crimp" tighten up of the radiator end caps thinking it would hold me over until I purchased new radiators. Well 5 years and 50K miles now and i still haven't purchased new radiators. I am thinking about it though, i am on borrowed time.
#20
Rennlist Member
U might check on OEM unit's (I bought 2 at different times
earlier this year and the left one was last one in country at the time. No dealer parts either.
I'll caution you to be there when delivered, Both boxes, 2 different vendors were damaged due to lousy factory packaging. (one condenser mounting boss was broke off). When I called FCP i was denied because I opened the package. (won't ever buy there again). I took pics and all, but FedEx dropped and left. The frist one was similar but not damaged) Luckily JB weld came to rescue as it was still water tight.
The CSF are nice but $$$ compared to Mahle's.
Good luck,
Mike
earlier this year and the left one was last one in country at the time. No dealer parts either.
I'll caution you to be there when delivered, Both boxes, 2 different vendors were damaged due to lousy factory packaging. (one condenser mounting boss was broke off). When I called FCP i was denied because I opened the package. (won't ever buy there again). I took pics and all, but FedEx dropped and left. The frist one was similar but not damaged) Luckily JB weld came to rescue as it was still water tight.
The CSF are nice but $$$ compared to Mahle's.
Good luck,
Mike
Last edited by Mike Mullins; 09-05-2023 at 10:41 PM.
#21
CSF
#22
Rennlist Member
At peak of pandemic when mine went I could only find the CSF’s and they were cheaper than the Mahle units. You can use durametric to test the fans or turn on your ac. The fans should both run, if they are not then replace them or the resistors ( I found the resistors failed and not my fans ). I didn’t trust my soldering to last a lifetime so I bought new fans and resistors. There is ALOT of coolant in these cars. Keep that in mind and plan for the capture of it or a giant mess. You should be able to search my posts as I recall doing a wrote up a while back. It’s not that bad of a job and you get to clean everything while you are in there.
#23
7.5 gallons or 28 liters of coolant I'm pretty sure.
#24
Rennlist Member
I just wanted to throw this out there: be sure that it's your radiator and not your AC condenser that's leaking. Coolant looks (to me) a lot like AC oil and dye. I had a pinhole leak in a condenser and initially thought it was the radiator. Replacing the condensers is a lot cheaper than the radiators (several hundred vs a couple thousand)
#27
Just discovered my driver side radiator is leaking today again. It was actually leaking last year and crimping the end caps stopped the leak. Crimping again didn’t help this time so I’m going with the CSF radiators. Both sides only replaced a few years ago. Which one of yours is leaking?
#29
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Bumper off. Right and left side very dirty and both leaking. My tech has always vacuumed the rads through the grills but unless bumper is taken off you can’t get at the corners which were really a mess. Replacing left and right with OEM’s. Centre was fine. Considered CSLs but decided to go OEM as they have lasted 20 years. Next time I have to replace them, I’ll be too old to care.
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