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Doing a clutch - What else should I do while it apart?

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Old 07-13-2010, 07:35 PM
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xpllaketapps
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Default Doing a clutch - What else should I do while it apart?

Car is an 04 turbo cab 26,000 miles - I can drive it, but I can make it slip in 3-6th gear...

Anyway I plan on changing out the following anything additional?

Plugs -fr6
wires - oem
coil pacs - 997
throughout bearing
pilot bearing
clutch plate - Haven't researched it, but not carbon fiber as I only got 15kM out of one in my 91 C4.
stock pressure plate? - I put a racing pressure plate in 91 c4 and wife could not drive it, as it was really stiff - reccomendations?

Light flywheel? made a big diference in the 91 c4, but it had 1/2 the horsepower and made it easy to stall (somewhat user unfriendly...)

I'm not really looking to mod the car, just complete all of the maintenace needed while the motor is out. I'm also afraid that the fly wheel will be toast as 26kM seems pretty short for a clutch (I bought the car @ 25kM), so it may have been taxed (beat).

Thanks for the advice.
Old 07-13-2010, 09:00 PM
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dantzig
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I think that you should consider getting rid of the stock slave/accumulator, which have frequent failures in this car. Evoms has a conversion kit, and Kevin at UMW has a different approach that uses GT2/3 parts. Anyway, the time to do it is now when the trans will be out for the clutch job.

I have the GT2/3 conversion, and am very happy with it. I also have the 964 RS clutch with LWFW. You definitely don't want that clutch/FW because it is very stiff and fairly noisy in neutral with clutch out. I wouldn't recommend it for a street only car.

GL,

Jon

Edit: I should expand on my evaluation for street use of the package above. I drive my car on the street and on the track. I installed this clutch package at the same time that I installed Kevin's Stage 2A turbo package. Switching to the GT2/3 actuator makes the clutch significantly stiffer. The LWFW also is somewhat noisy, but only at idle with the clutch out. No difference at all while driving, at least above 2k rpm. I am used to both of these characteristics, and I don't mind them at all. But some people would. You should think about what you want your car to be like.
Old 07-14-2010, 09:53 AM
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T2
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You should not need a rear main seal yet but it's a cheapo part to do while it's all out.
Old 07-14-2010, 12:46 PM
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xpllaketapps
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T2, I thought the turbo was a "split case" or something rendering the RMS a non issue???
Old 07-16-2010, 05:11 PM
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Erik@GBox
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I would recommend that you get the 2nd gear pop out fix if you have not already done this. It would be a good time as the gearbox will be out of the car.

Let me know if I can help,

Erik Johnson
GBox Performance Transaxle
(303) 440-8899 work
(303) 895-4828 cell
Old 07-16-2010, 10:03 PM
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PAULUNM
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Originally Posted by xpllaketapps
T2, I thought the turbo was a "split case" or something rendering the RMS a non issue???
No, the split case is one of the main reasons why the RMS leaks...
Old 07-17-2010, 11:15 AM
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Yes there is a RMS - it's an orange ring that costs about 35 or so bucks if my memory is correct
Old 07-17-2010, 04:19 PM
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Joe Weinstein
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Absolutely consult with Kevin at UMW: 360-805-9066



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