Oil Change DIY (pics)
10-30-2011, 06:38 PM
#46
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My local indy shop did my oil change, my car had a vibration that got worst the faster you drove so I wanted to get the tires rebalanced and decided to take it to the shop to have them do both things at once.
I was in the bay chatting some racing with the machanic while he was working on my car so I got to see him do the oil change and he did it just like your DIY and I did notice the oil tank held alot of oil. He used aluminum washers on the turbo and crank case drain bolts and used a copper crush washer on the oil tank drain plug. I talked with the machanic that worked on the car about the oil drip and he said they would change the copper washer but the oil would not be covered because I supplied my own oil (M1 5W-40 TDT) for the oil change instead of what the shop uses. He also told me they do not use OEM washers and have never had any problems. I am going to get a OEM copper crush washer and change it myself, on top of this my car still has a vibration even after the rebalance, I'm going to try a road force balance and hopefully that will solve or find the cause of the vibration.
The oil drain plug on my car is 15mm, I know this because I torqued the bolt myself using a 27mm wrench and a 15mm socket to make sure it was tight. Do you think I should try loosening the bolt and move the washer and retorquing it to spec? would that make a difference.
I was in the bay chatting some racing with the machanic while he was working on my car so I got to see him do the oil change and he did it just like your DIY and I did notice the oil tank held alot of oil. He used aluminum washers on the turbo and crank case drain bolts and used a copper crush washer on the oil tank drain plug. I talked with the machanic that worked on the car about the oil drip and he said they would change the copper washer but the oil would not be covered because I supplied my own oil (M1 5W-40 TDT) for the oil change instead of what the shop uses. He also told me they do not use OEM washers and have never had any problems. I am going to get a OEM copper crush washer and change it myself, on top of this my car still has a vibration even after the rebalance, I'm going to try a road force balance and hopefully that will solve or find the cause of the vibration.
The oil drain plug on my car is 15mm, I know this because I torqued the bolt myself using a 27mm wrench and a 15mm socket to make sure it was tight. Do you think I should try loosening the bolt and move the washer and retorquing it to spec? would that make a difference.
10-30-2011, 08:16 PM
#47
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Another reason I do as much work on the car as I can. I know it is done right.
With that said, I would go get the PROPER washers (p/n listed at the beginning of the thread) and redo the oil change yourself. Since the oil is brand new you can reclaim that oil if you want and reuse. Just make sure the catch can or whatever you use is clean.
Hate to say it.......time to find a new indy (you
).
With that said, I would go get the PROPER washers (p/n listed at the beginning of the thread) and redo the oil change yourself. Since the oil is brand new you can reclaim that oil if you want and reuse. Just make sure the catch can or whatever you use is clean.
Hate to say it.......time to find a new indy (you
).
Last edited by LVDell; 10-31-2011 at 09:00 AM. Reason: typo
10-30-2011, 10:12 PM
#48
My local indy shop did my oil change, my car had a vibration that got worst the faster you drove so I wanted to get the tires rebalanced and decided to take it to the shop to have them do both things at once.
I was in the bay chatting some racing with the machanic while he was working on my car so I got to see him do the oil change and he did it just like your DIY and I did notice the oil tank held alot of oil. He used aluminum washers on the turbo and crank case drain bolts and used a copper crush washer on the oil tank drain plug. I talked with the machanic that worked on the car about the oil drip and he said they would change the copper washer but the oil would not be covered because I supplied my own oil (M1 5W-40 TDT) for the oil change instead of what the shop uses. He also told me they do not use OEM washers and have never had any problems. I am going to get a OEM copper crush washer and change it myself, on top of this my car still has a vibration even after the rebalance, I'm going to try a road force balance and hopefully that will solve or find the cause of the vibration.
The oil drain plug on my car is 15mm, I know this because I torqued the bolt myself using a 27mm wrench and a 15mm socket to make sure it was tight. Do you think I should try loosening the bolt and move the washer and retorquing it to spec? would that make a difference.
I was in the bay chatting some racing with the machanic while he was working on my car so I got to see him do the oil change and he did it just like your DIY and I did notice the oil tank held alot of oil. He used aluminum washers on the turbo and crank case drain bolts and used a copper crush washer on the oil tank drain plug. I talked with the machanic that worked on the car about the oil drip and he said they would change the copper washer but the oil would not be covered because I supplied my own oil (M1 5W-40 TDT) for the oil change instead of what the shop uses. He also told me they do not use OEM washers and have never had any problems. I am going to get a OEM copper crush washer and change it myself, on top of this my car still has a vibration even after the rebalance, I'm going to try a road force balance and hopefully that will solve or find the cause of the vibration.
The oil drain plug on my car is 15mm, I know this because I torqued the bolt myself using a 27mm wrench and a 15mm socket to make sure it was tight. Do you think I should try loosening the bolt and move the washer and retorquing it to spec? would that make a difference.
11-01-2011, 10:50 AM
#49
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On my car the 19 mm oil tank plug had been replaced with a 15 mm plug by the previous owner. It's the same plug that goes in the crankcase. The idea apparently being to save a few seconds by not having to change sockets when going from one to the other.
06-20-2012, 11:25 AM
#53
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Sorry, I forgot to attach a pic of the oil filter cover o-rings location. One is down at the base of the threads (large o-ring) and one (small o-ring) is at the top of the shaft coming from the housing.
06-20-2012, 01:37 PM
#54
I found the big one, the little one will have to be changed next time I guess. It must be in a grove like the big one was. Oil change cost me about $83.00, not sure how much I saved.
I have to do the wives car now.
Thanks again
I have to do the wives car now.
Thanks again
04-19-2014, 09:21 PM
#56
Rennlist Member
Just did my first oil change on the TT. Was not able to get the turbo sump drains done, I reefed on the cap screw but it did not want to come out. Otherwise uneventful. My car last had a service by a Porsche Dealer, the engine sump washer was Al, the Oil Tank Cu. I replaced in kind from my Wurth supply cabinet. No leaks after test drive, and I had to add 9 quarts to get to the full mark on the dash measuring display.
04-20-2014, 11:22 AM
#57
Rennlist Member
Besides the 4 sealing washers and large "o" ring on the filter housing don't forget to change the samll "o" ring at the end of the plastic stem inside the oil filter housing.
