LVDell

Another member asked if I would take some video when I did the oil change but the camera crapped out so I did the next best thing....took some pics.

The process is pretty easy and straightforward so even the weekend DIY guy can do this.

Tools Needed:
Oil Tank drain plug-->19mm socket and 27mm wrench (1 1/16 will also work)
Crankcase drain plug-->15mm socket
Turbo drain plug (1 each side)-->8mm hex
Torque Wrench (I have two since the torque values vary)

Parts Needed:
Oil Filter and new O-rings (oil filter will come with large ring) small is 999 707 465 40
Aluminum Sealing Ring (crankcase) 900 123 118 30
Aluminum Sealing Rings (turbos x2) 900 123 140 30
Copper Sealing Ring (oil tank) 900 123 010 20
9 quarts of oil (I use 5W-50 Mobil1)
Oil Filter Removal Tool (mine is from the dealer but you can get them elsewhere)





Personally, I go for a short drive to get everything warmed up. Make sure to have eye protection and gloves (I use latex gloves).

**quick disclaimer....you can change the steps up and it won't make a bit of difference. Some like to remove the filter first and leave off until done. Other like this set of steps. I don't see how it makes a difference so do what order you feel best with**

**disclaimer #2 The rec'd to pull fuse C4 is courtesy of Kevin (UMW) and he gives a great explanation as to why so please direct all questions regarding this to him**

Steps:
1. To prevent the engine from firing over with fuel trapped in the injector. Please pull/remove the C4 fuse BEFORE you drain your engine oil. Crank the engine over and you might get a quick fire on a couple cylinders.. Now proceed to the oil change.

Remove crankcase drain plug and drain oil. This requires a 15mm socket. There will be just a few quarts. Once drained replace the drain plug using a new aluminum sealing ring. Tighten to 52 ft-lbs.




2. Remove the oil tank drain plug. This requires the 27mm wrench and 19mm socket. Use the 27mm wrench to apply force OPPOSITE to the removal of the drain plug. You can see where it goes just above the drain plug. This prevents damage to the oil container from the torque generated when removing. BE CAREFUL HERE! The oil from the tank is large in quantity and comes out like a geyser!!! Make sure you have taken the appropriate precautions to prevent splatter. I use a funnel type oil collector and it still gets a bit splashed. Once drained replace drain plug with new copper sealing ring. Tighten to 44 ft-lb.



3. Remove the turbocharger drain plug and drain. You'll get a few ounces of oil. I used a fruit cup container. Replace drain plug with new aluminum sealing ring. Tighten to 22 ft-lb. Do 2x (one for each Turbo).




**FYI....OIL FILTER IS IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT**

4. Remove the oil filter housing with the filter removal tool. Mine requires a 27mm socket. Once removed, clean and replace the two rubber o-rings coating them with a film of the new oil. Remove the old filter. While the filter is out you will notice a good amount of residual oil. Remove this oil. I used a baby medicine dropper. It will be a couple ounces. Once removed, insert the new filter. It will "snap" when it seats properly. Replace the filter cover. Tighten to 19 ft-lb.





5. Add 8 quarts of oil. This is a little tricky since the oil filler tube is inset a little ways back so you need to be either use a funnel or just have a steady hand and good aim Once 8 quarts have been added, put the oil filler cap back on and start the car. Once up to operating temp check the oil level and add as needed.

**See Kevin's quote below to do during this step**






Voila! Just saved yourself some hard earned money doing it yourself and the satisfaction that YOU did the work!

Attached is a pdf of the oil change with p/n's, etc. I wish I could remember where i got it so I could give credit. **edit, I need to figure out how to reduce the size of the pdf to attach**

JG 996T

Another great DIY - thanks Dell.

I think I'm going to give it a try this spring.

LVDell

Very welcome

ltc

No mods?

LVDell

Of course. I modified my oil selection. I moved from 0W-40 to 5W-50

PorscheDoc

Just to add for those looking to buy the crush seals in bulk outside a p-car dealer:
Aluminum crush seals for the turbo drains are 18x22
Aluminum crush seal for the crankcase is 22x27
Copper crush seal for the reservoir is 20x26

LVDell

Totally agree. I buy my filters and all sealing rings in bulk.

Part numbers are posted in the pdf in the OP.

Kevinmacd

Oil filter tool available at AutoZone, make sure you get the one with 14flats, costs about $9

Kevin

Dell if I could add>>

Once you install the oil filter in the console.. You can start to pour clean oil down the center of the new filter. It's slow going but prelubes the oil prelubes the cam housing, vario-cam and turbochargers..

I mention this for those that want to benifit from any pre-lubing efforts...

LVDell

Interesting, I never thought of pouring into any place other than the filler tube. How much do you suggest pouring down that direction?

porka

great DIY! i will definitely use kevins prelube method next time.

dantzig

Thanks for the post, and the nice pics!

Kevin has pointed out in other threads that before you start draining the oil you should remove the fuel pump relay and crank the engine to empty the fuel rails, and then after swapping the oil you should again crank the engine with the fuel pump relay out to distribute the oil before starting the engine.

You might want to edit the original post to include this?

Jon

LVDell

I'll let Kevin give a detailed explanation and writeup stating why/when/how/where/etc this task should be completed. Honestly I have no idea nor do I understand it. I have been changing my oil in the Turbo and GT3 for years and this is the first I have heard of this. I respect Kevin and will definitely be doing business with him when my warranty runs out (PCNA frowns upon tuning, etc) so I would hope he has a change to chime in and I will add that to the DIY.

Thanks for the input Jon!

Kevin

I have a posted with pictures on a thread years ago. But here is the basics..

Years ago, I was doing a turbo install and I was filling up the engine with oil. I was interested to see if I could get som oil into the crankcase to speed up the oil pressure for start up. Please note> when you fill the oil in the factory fill location the oil just goes to the TANK. Not into your bottom crankcase..

I poured a half a quart into the center of the filter element. The oil started to flow out of the oil supply lines that feed the turbocharger bearing housing/check valves.. I could watch dark brown oil quickly turn to nice clear oil. Once the oil was filled, I cranked the engine over to build oil pressure > Fuse C4 was removed.

brooklynkid

Thanks again LVDell