wross996tt

P0023
Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 2 Output Stage - Open
Circuit

Possible fault cause
♦ Open circuit in triggering wire
♦ Open circuit in B+ supply
♦ Solenoid hydraulic valve faulty

anothercarguy

best I could take from shop...can post better pictures later when there's more light...but you can see the intake set up...and the MAP that sits on top of the Y pipe.

anothercarguy

They also did replace 2 hydraulic valves according to the repair invoice, I should mention.

Kevin

You have to start with a plan to troubleshoot the issues.

It looks like you have two separate failures.

One is MAF or intake leak related, the other is camshaft switching related.

I would remove the EVOM's airbox to pressure test your intake system. The shop needs to put a plug with a fill valve and pump up the system to at least 14 to 16psi.. That is a must.. If they won't do it you need to find a shop that will.

Solenoid, and trigger sensors need to be addressed. I would exhaust all the simple issues before tearing into the engine.

anothercarguy

What you says makes sense. I will order a MAF from Pelican and see if that helps. If not, time to take it to a shop around NY/NJ.

Anyone have recommendations for installers/tuners who are familiar with aftermarket, boosted porsches?

wross996tt

Can't tell from the pic, but considering you have the EVOMs intake, you might have the Hitachi MAF...and should be replaced with the same if you have the EVOMs flash. FWIW, I would lose the intake...

anothercarguy

I will have to wait till Saturday as it is too damn dark to see anything by the time I get home. I will pull to see what MAF I have. Need to stop by the store and get a torx t20 too.


The deeper underlying issue is the cam error code. Apparently this may or may not cause the MAF issue...but the causality does not flow the other way.

The simplest test to do is to do the smoke test, so it makes sense to start there. I don't have a smoke machine so will need to go to a shop to do so.

But once there, anyone have suggestions as to what to test and in what order for the cam adjustment failure? I need a systematic plan to address the cam issue, just like Kevin said. Ordinarily I'd assume the shop would know what to do...but am quickly realizing the collective wisdom here will help me ensure they are not cutting corners (using a spray can to "rule out" a leak).

Also anyone know of a shop they'd trust their car to in my area (NY/NJ)?

anothercarguy

Here is a pic of MAF....does this help?

Kevin

Is that copper wire coming out of the MAF connector boot? The boot looks cut/damaged.

Remove the MAF and email or PM Evolution Motorsports with the data. They should be able to help you out.

wross996tt

wow...that looks like a hack job...

EVOMS

The picture isn't very clear as to where that copper is coming from, but bare copper wiring should not be visible anywhere in the engine bay. If there's a short or an open circuit as a result of that, it may explain both of your issues.

sinking

That copper is the windings in the alternator...

anothercarguy

Just an update.

Yes, copper is the alternator...no wires sticking out.

I changed the MAF and the PASM/ABS problem went away for 400 miles. (The CEL for the camshaft still on P0023 and P1358)

Recently the ABS/PASM light came back on. Am guessing/hoping its just the MAF blown again. KNow that the earlier EVOMS intake kit had a issue with it. Understand there's an OEM "waffle" retrofix.

Can someone help with what that part number is, where to get one, or what it looks like?

After I fix that...I am going to address the P1358 & P0023 error. Hoping it's not a big issue.