Epoxy for Coolant Pinning
#1
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Epoxy for Coolant Pinning
Hey guys,
For those who have removed their coolant fittings(vs. pinning without fitting removal) when doing the pinning, what epoxy have you used to replace the factory epoxy? Hard to find a trustable weld shop in my area so pinning is looking like the way to go for me...
Thanks in advance,
Rob
For those who have removed their coolant fittings(vs. pinning without fitting removal) when doing the pinning, what epoxy have you used to replace the factory epoxy? Hard to find a trustable weld shop in my area so pinning is looking like the way to go for me...
Thanks in advance,
Rob
#2
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If the pipes are not leaking or loose, just pin them in place
the pin keeps the connection from blowing apart, and the current epoxy keeps them from leaking
if loose or leaking - different story
mine were still tight, so an easy job. Not cheap, but easy
the pin keeps the connection from blowing apart, and the current epoxy keeps them from leaking
if loose or leaking - different story
mine were still tight, so an easy job. Not cheap, but easy
#3
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Thread Starter
have been thinking about doing that as well, if I can't budge them without heat they will probably stay in as is, with pin.
#5
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Thanks for the post! Also looking at JB original formula....key here is low shrink during cure/use.
If fittings are still solid in place, I will probably leave them in housing and build a skim outer contact layer of JB, and pin.
If fittings are still solid in place, I will probably leave them in housing and build a skim outer contact layer of JB, and pin.
#6
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I use JB weld for a lot of things, but for this job I would probably give the folks at 3M a call. They make great adhesives, and have an epoxy for virtually every application
#7
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Take a look into Marine-Tex Epoxy Putty. This stuff is awesome. It's been used for repairing fuel tanks, cracked engine blocks, etc. and isn't phased by any chemicals that it might get exposed to from the 996TT engine environment. If and when I do the epoxy solution I wouldn't even give JB Weld a second look and would go directly to Marine-Tex. Good Luck!
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#8
RL Community Team
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If you are going through all the trouble of removing the engine you might as well have all the fittings pulled and new ones wielded in. Pinning will prevent a catastrophic coolant loss but might not prevent a leak which might require the engine to be pulled again. Why risk it? Fix it once by wielding and be done with it forever. Even if you have ship the water manifold somewhere to be wielded it is still worth it.
#9
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There's pro's and con's to each.
I initially preferred the welding method but have given it a lot of thought(too much ) and decided on pinning
Particularly is a less than perfect welder is utilized, metal fatigue and heat affected zone(HAZ) issues(ductility/fracture) could actually make welding an issue long-term, pinning has the advantage of replacing fittings if needed....and can always be welded down the line if proven a better method 10,15,50years from now.
Now, who's going to start 3D printing the complete assemblies one-piece?
I initially preferred the welding method but have given it a lot of thought(too much ) and decided on pinning
Particularly is a less than perfect welder is utilized, metal fatigue and heat affected zone(HAZ) issues(ductility/fracture) could actually make welding an issue long-term, pinning has the advantage of replacing fittings if needed....and can always be welded down the line if proven a better method 10,15,50years from now.
Now, who's going to start 3D printing the complete assemblies one-piece?
#10
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
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There's pro's and con's to each.
I initially preferred the welding method but have given it a lot of thought(too much ) and decided on pinning
Particularly is a less than perfect welder is utilized, metal fatigue and heat affected zone(HAZ) issues(ductility/fracture) could actually make welding an issue long-term, pinning has the advantage of replacing fittings if needed....and can always be welded down the line if proven a better method 10,15,50years from now.
Now, who's going to start 3D printing the complete assemblies one-piece?
I initially preferred the welding method but have given it a lot of thought(too much ) and decided on pinning
Particularly is a less than perfect welder is utilized, metal fatigue and heat affected zone(HAZ) issues(ductility/fracture) could actually make welding an issue long-term, pinning has the advantage of replacing fittings if needed....and can always be welded down the line if proven a better method 10,15,50years from now.
Now, who's going to start 3D printing the complete assemblies one-piece?
A quality wielding job will fix the issue 100% forever. An re-epoxy/pin job will most likely fail at some point in the future. Expoy doesn't like heat/cool cycles. The racing versions of these motors built by the Porsche factory have wielded fittings.
Why screw around? Pay the price now and be done with it.
#11
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Cup Car's also have engine's torn down and inspected every ~50 hours...
Again, Pro's and con's for each...
If you wanted a really 'pro' fix, internally groove the casting, install a Viton o-rings, utilize a fitting similar to what T.S. offers with the outer flange/groove, and install external mechanical groove-lock...
Pinning costs me 'nothing' besides my time, and I am not being cheap about the whole process-I'm putting over ~$1000 worth of cooling system parts in the engine bay alone...
Again, Pro's and con's for each...
If you wanted a really 'pro' fix, internally groove the casting, install a Viton o-rings, utilize a fitting similar to what T.S. offers with the outer flange/groove, and install external mechanical groove-lock...
Pinning costs me 'nothing' besides my time, and I am not being cheap about the whole process-I'm putting over ~$1000 worth of cooling system parts in the engine bay alone...
#13
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Thread Starter
Ya have a few bits there lol, ..so much I have forgotten, the list, minus new injectors, wastegates, oil pressure senders, air check-valves etc:
Expansion Tank 99610615704 x1
Thermostat 99610612572 x1
Thermostat Gasket 99610632671 x1
Coolant Temp. Sensor 99660641000 x2
Waterpump 99610601176 x1
Waterpump Gasket 99610634071 x1
Cam Solenoid Bracket 99610531072 x2
Cam Solenoid Bolts 90037801301 x4
O-rings/seals:
99970741040 x2
99970741140 x2
99610621470 x2
99970731540 x1
99970746840 x1
90012314430 x2
99970178940 x1
99970742641 x1
99970711341 x1
99970744640 x1
99970740940 x4
99970729840 x1
99970720440 x1
99610680103 x4
99970750540 x1
99970750640 x1
99970740940 x3
99611031802 x1
Oil filter base gasket 99610721771 x1
Coolant Hoses:
99610650177 x1
99710650200 x1
99610623374 x1
99610625074 x1
99610651274 x1
99610652973 x1
99610647775 x1
99610632874 x1
Expansion Tank 99610615704 x1
Thermostat 99610612572 x1
Thermostat Gasket 99610632671 x1
Coolant Temp. Sensor 99660641000 x2
Waterpump 99610601176 x1
Waterpump Gasket 99610634071 x1
Cam Solenoid Bracket 99610531072 x2
Cam Solenoid Bolts 90037801301 x4
O-rings/seals:
99970741040 x2
99970741140 x2
99610621470 x2
99970731540 x1
99970746840 x1
90012314430 x2
99970178940 x1
99970742641 x1
99970711341 x1
99970744640 x1
99970740940 x4
99970729840 x1
99970720440 x1
99610680103 x4
99970750540 x1
99970750640 x1
99970740940 x3
99611031802 x1
Oil filter base gasket 99610721771 x1
Coolant Hoses:
99610650177 x1
99710650200 x1
99610623374 x1
99610625074 x1
99610651274 x1
99610652973 x1
99610647775 x1
99610632874 x1
Last edited by 993GT; 04-23-2014 at 09:22 PM.
#14
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
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Cup Car's also have engine's torn down and inspected every ~50 hours...
Again, Pro's and con's for each...
If you wanted a really 'pro' fix, internally groove the casting, install a Viton o-rings, utilize a fitting similar to what T.S. offers with the outer flange/groove, and install external mechanical groove-lock...
Pinning costs me 'nothing' besides my time, and I am not being cheap about the whole process-I'm putting over ~$1000 worth of cooling system parts in the engine bay alone...
Again, Pro's and con's for each...
If you wanted a really 'pro' fix, internally groove the casting, install a Viton o-rings, utilize a fitting similar to what T.S. offers with the outer flange/groove, and install external mechanical groove-lock...
Pinning costs me 'nothing' besides my time, and I am not being cheap about the whole process-I'm putting over ~$1000 worth of cooling system parts in the engine bay alone...
A real pro fix would never involve O-rings because O-rings deteriorate over tme just like epoxy.
You mentioned possibly 3D printing an entire new manifold down the line. Well how do think metal 3D printing works. It is done by a scanning laser wielding metal dust together to form the part. One way or another wielding is the final solution.
I am done now, do as you wish.
#15
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Thread Starter
are you sure Cup Cars have welded fittings? from what I know, they are not delivered that way...
how do you think the water manifolds seal to the engine...O-rings also, noticed I mentioned Viton..
And yes I know exactly how 3D printing works...talking totally different principles/ideology to welding two metals together.
I'm not saying welding is bad, what I'm saying is that to say it is the only 'correct' method is wrong and should not be assumed.
BTW, what epoxy would you recommended for pinning method?
how do you think the water manifolds seal to the engine...O-rings also, noticed I mentioned Viton..
And yes I know exactly how 3D printing works...talking totally different principles/ideology to welding two metals together.
I'm not saying welding is bad, what I'm saying is that to say it is the only 'correct' method is wrong and should not be assumed.
BTW, what epoxy would you recommended for pinning method?