Do you DD your 996t?
#18
Rennlist Member
Daily driver for the last five years (not a commuter car), and still love it.
It's reliable, with no problems beyond the normal stuff, and it puts a big smile on your face everyday.
It's reliable, with no problems beyond the normal stuff, and it puts a big smile on your face everyday.
#20
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
DD spring through fall - I want to get to 600,000 miles like T2.
Everyone needs goals.
Everyone needs goals.
#21
Three Wheelin'
It makes a fantastic DD
#23
Next month marks 3 years and 24K miles as my DD. The only item outside of normal maintenance has been the dreaded blown coolant fitting. Looking back it's been one of the best car decisions I've made.
#26
Rennlist Member
Do you DD your 996t?
But honestly buying a $50K Turbo and letting it take some dents/dings/wear from daily driving is no different than buying a new Audi for $50K and having the same wear and tear, but the Turbo will have less depreciation.
If anyone happens to do their own work to the cars, cost for parts seperately would be great. Im not a mechanic by trade, but easily could be given past experiences. (ie, Ive rebuilt engines and been racing for the last 14yrs as a hobby) So I would likely be doing any needed work myself.
Example: The starter on my car was starting to bind, occasionally not fully actuating the bendix/solenoid to engage the starter motor to to the flywheel. Not often, but happened enough that I wanted to address it:
Approximate cost to take it to a dealer and say "fix it". $1,400. ~$900 for a Bosch starter in a Porsche box, another ~$500 in labor, shop fees, etc.
DIY: $250 for a new OEM Bosch starter through Amazon, about two hours to change it myself. In fact the original starter was fine, and just needed the shaft cleaned as it was gummed up and worked perfectly once cleaned, so I still have the new starter as a spare:
So for an unexpected starter repair, $1,400 or $0 depending on your ability to fix things yourself. ZERO chance the dealer would have looked at the starter diagnosed it as needing nothing more than cleaning and lubrication, and put it back in.
Same with brake pads...
Take your Turbo to the dealer when you need new brakes and say "fix it", you are looking at a pretty huge repair bill., probably pushing $3K.
But oem rotors and oem pads purchased through a reseller like www.fcpeuro.com or www.rmeuropean.com and you can get all four corners, new rotors, new pads, sensors, fluid, etc. for less than $800 and install them all in an afternoon. Or even less if your rotors are o.k. and you just need to swap in new pads.
Easy car to work on IMHO.
But not all peaches and cream...
Some items that can be expensive are a clutch replacement and coolant line fittings. Both are pretty hard to DIY,. Clutch parts are still expensive even when purchased at typical discounts. Clutch slave is also a PITA item that fails frequently and has expensive parts to replace, unless you bite the bullet and do a GT3 style clutch hydraulics conversion. Radiators are also known to develop leaks and are a bit pricey, Suspension refresh can be expensive from both parts and labor.
No matter how carefully you pick your car, and how thorough of a PPI you have, you are likely going to find things in your first year or two of ownership that you will want to address, so just plan on it.
Last edited by pfbz; 05-12-2019 at 03:37 PM.
#27
good advice.
Great advice. Now need to find a decent miles 996TT to work on it too.
Hit me up if you know any leads.
Hit me up if you know any leads.
The Turbo makes a great DD, but many of us don't DD them to try and protect their cosmetic condition...
But honestly buying a $50K Turbo and letting it take some dents/dings/wear from daily driving is no different than buying a new Audi for $50K and having the same wear and tear, but the Turbo will have less depreciation.
If you do work yourself, OEM parts are readily available at a huge discount over Porsche sourced parts, and even the parts that are Porsche only can be sourced at 20-40% less than your local dealer might charge.
Example: The starter on my car was starting to bind, occasionally not fully actuating the bendix/solenoid to engage the starter motor to to the flywheel. Not often, but happened enough that I wanted to address it:
Approximate cost to take it to a dealer and say "fix it". $1,400. ~$900 for a Bosch starter in a Porsche box, another ~$500 in labor, shop fees, etc.
DIY: $250 for a new OEM Bosch starter through Amazon, about two hours to change it myself. In fact the original starter was fine, and just needed the shaft cleaned as it was gummed up and worked perfectly once cleaned, so I still have the new starter as a spare:
So for an unexpected starter repair, $1,400 or $0 depending on your ability to fix things yourself. ZERO chance the dealer would have looked at the starter diagnosed it as needing nothing more than cleaning and lubrication, and put it back in.
Same with brake pads...
Take your Turbo to the dealer when you need new brakes and say "fix it", you are looking at a pretty huge repair bill., probably pushing $3K.
But oem rotors and oem pads purchased through a reseller like www.fcpeuro.com or www.rmeuropean.com and you can get all four corners, new rotors, new pads, sensors, fluid, etc. for less than $800 and install them all in an afternoon. Or even less if your rotors are o.k. and you just need to swap in new pads.
Easy car to work on IMHO.
But not all peaches and cream...
Some items that can be expensive are a clutch replacement and coolant line fittings. Both are pretty hard to DIY,. Clutch parts are still expensive even when purchased at typical discounts. Clutch slave is also a PITA item that fails frequently and has expensive parts to replace, unless you bite the bullet and do a GT3 style clutch hydraulics conversion. Radiators are also known to develop leaks and are a bit pricey, Suspension refresh can be expensive from both parts and labor.
No matter how carefully you pick your car, and how thorough of a PPI you have, you are likely going to find things in your first year or two of ownership that you will want to address, so just plan on it.
But honestly buying a $50K Turbo and letting it take some dents/dings/wear from daily driving is no different than buying a new Audi for $50K and having the same wear and tear, but the Turbo will have less depreciation.
If you do work yourself, OEM parts are readily available at a huge discount over Porsche sourced parts, and even the parts that are Porsche only can be sourced at 20-40% less than your local dealer might charge.
Example: The starter on my car was starting to bind, occasionally not fully actuating the bendix/solenoid to engage the starter motor to to the flywheel. Not often, but happened enough that I wanted to address it:
Approximate cost to take it to a dealer and say "fix it". $1,400. ~$900 for a Bosch starter in a Porsche box, another ~$500 in labor, shop fees, etc.
DIY: $250 for a new OEM Bosch starter through Amazon, about two hours to change it myself. In fact the original starter was fine, and just needed the shaft cleaned as it was gummed up and worked perfectly once cleaned, so I still have the new starter as a spare:
So for an unexpected starter repair, $1,400 or $0 depending on your ability to fix things yourself. ZERO chance the dealer would have looked at the starter diagnosed it as needing nothing more than cleaning and lubrication, and put it back in.
Same with brake pads...
Take your Turbo to the dealer when you need new brakes and say "fix it", you are looking at a pretty huge repair bill., probably pushing $3K.
But oem rotors and oem pads purchased through a reseller like www.fcpeuro.com or www.rmeuropean.com and you can get all four corners, new rotors, new pads, sensors, fluid, etc. for less than $800 and install them all in an afternoon. Or even less if your rotors are o.k. and you just need to swap in new pads.
Easy car to work on IMHO.
But not all peaches and cream...
Some items that can be expensive are a clutch replacement and coolant line fittings. Both are pretty hard to DIY,. Clutch parts are still expensive even when purchased at typical discounts. Clutch slave is also a PITA item that fails frequently and has expensive parts to replace, unless you bite the bullet and do a GT3 style clutch hydraulics conversion. Radiators are also known to develop leaks and are a bit pricey, Suspension refresh can be expensive from both parts and labor.
No matter how carefully you pick your car, and how thorough of a PPI you have, you are likely going to find things in your first year or two of ownership that you will want to address, so just plan on it.
#28
Rennlist Member
The one thing I personally am not flexible on is 1) Coupe, and 2) 6-speed, not Tip, But many folks here speak highly of the tiptronic and if you happened to want say a tiptronic cabriolet, your search would be much easier!
#29
Drifting
I try to drive mine as much as I can
****ty parking at work ****ty people in general where I live. So drives are limited to whenever I wanna drive it and come home or parking in where I can see it.
I try not to drive too much in the rain as there's lots of s roads and roundabouts. Nothing like people driving 70 in the left lane when everyone else is going 90 plus or taking a 45mph turn at 60 when its been raining for 5 minutes.
Also I hate hate hate getting into a blistering hot car and burning my thumb on my shifter
Question for everyone, would you teach a loved one how to drive stick in your tt?
****ty parking at work ****ty people in general where I live. So drives are limited to whenever I wanna drive it and come home or parking in where I can see it.
I try not to drive too much in the rain as there's lots of s roads and roundabouts. Nothing like people driving 70 in the left lane when everyone else is going 90 plus or taking a 45mph turn at 60 when its been raining for 5 minutes.
Also I hate hate hate getting into a blistering hot car and burning my thumb on my shifter
Question for everyone, would you teach a loved one how to drive stick in your tt?