What spring rates are you running with your coilovers on the street?
#31
I have no helpers and the ride is still on the harsh side, that’s why I asked about the TPS. I like to lower the tire pressure, but I like to keep the TPS too.
I drove EVO’s with the Oehlins and they were much more compliant.
I drove EVO’s with the Oehlins and they were much more compliant.
The following users liked this post:
Hindsight2010 (10-13-2020)
#32
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks for sharing your experience. I think I'll probably go with 250/500. It's fairly similar to what you went with, and it's within the 25% spring rate allowance Ohlins says you can go without a re-valve. And at the same time, sadly, I will be swapping my new Tarett monoball camber plates out for the OEM rubber mounts due to the annoying noise that one of them is making.
#33
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thanks for sharing your experience. I think I'll probably go with 250/500. It's fairly similar to what you went with, and it's within the 25% spring rate allowance Ohlins says you can go without a re-valve. And at the same time, sadly, I will be swapping my new Tarett monoball camber plates out for the OEM rubber mounts due to the annoying noise that one of them is making.
#34
Pro
Thread Starter
I used chassis ears to determine it was the right camber plate that is making the noise. Of course, with chassis ears you never know 100%..... but I'm 90% certain since the loudest sound heard was when I had the clamp on the camber plate itself and another on the unibody that the camber plate bolts to. Strut bearings are brand new OEM.
#35
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
It's a question that has me scratching my head as well. I assembled them the same on each side. The only thing I didn't check was the factory assembly of the camber plates (AKA I didn't check tightness of the allen screws that hold the cap that captures the monoball bearings in the plate). Could be a manufacturing defect or a bad monoball in there (though it's brand new).
I used chassis ears to determine it was the right camber plate that is making the noise. Of course, with chassis ears you never know 100%..... but I'm 90% certain since the loudest sound heard was when I had the clamp on the camber plate itself and another on the unibody that the camber plate bolts to. Strut bearings are brand new OEM.
I used chassis ears to determine it was the right camber plate that is making the noise. Of course, with chassis ears you never know 100%..... but I'm 90% certain since the loudest sound heard was when I had the clamp on the camber plate itself and another on the unibody that the camber plate bolts to. Strut bearings are brand new OEM.
#36
Pro
Thread Starter
I found that when I installed mine, if I tried to tighten the nuts on the top side without also holding the bolt heads on the bottom side that it would unscrew the bolts slightly. Before scrapping them, maybe double-check that the bolts underneath are still tight, then hold those and retorque the top nuts.
The following users liked this post:
Hindsight2010 (10-13-2020)
#38
Pro
Thread Starter
My friend if you've not already happened upon the following, it may be of interest. Hope you get everything sorted to your satisfaction.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...unt-noise.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...g-wheel-3.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...unt-noise.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...g-wheel-3.html