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I have an 08 c4s with some sort of parasitic draw that no one could figure out... I got a new battery and it was doing well but died again and now I can get the hood latch open to charge the battery. I tried jumping the hood latch like you are supposed to from the fuse panel down by the clutch. I get a good spark on the good battery, but no power to the latch. Any ideas?
Actually found some old posts and hitting the button the key fob instead of in the car worked. but if anyone has any ideas about the parasitic draw I'm all ears
I have an 08 c4s with some sort of parasitic draw that no one could figure out... I got a new battery and it was doing well but died again and now I can get the hood latch open to charge the battery. I tried jumping the hood latch like you are supposed to from the fuse panel down by the clutch. I get a good spark on the good battery, but no power to the latch. Any ideas?
I just had to do this on my Boxster - the pic on the instructions in the fuse box shows using the door latch as the ground. I found that that doesn't work in my case. I needed to use a different ground. Once I did it worked fine.
Go to fuse box and check current draw with multimeter one fuse at a time. Fuse that is drawing current with everything turned off is the circuit with the parasitic draw. Investigate that circuit from there.
What size cables are you using to feed 12v to red hood release fuse ?
Originally Posted by Jd1368
I have an 08 c4s with some sort of parasitic draw that no one could figure out... I got a new battery and it was doing well but died again and now I can get the hood latch open to charge the battery. I tried jumping the hood latch like you are supposed to from the fuse panel down by the clutch. I get a good spark on the good battery, but no power to the latch. Any ideas?
Are you using typical high current jumper cables ?
Patrick
When connected correctly you will definitely hear a click as the bypass relay energizes. Make sure no key in ignition and hold down the button on key fob for at least 4+ seconds.
What others have said above on opening the frunk. Then add an extra release cable to behind the right side light (lots of good videos on this are now available). Then, good luck figuring out the parasitic draw.
Actually found some old posts and hitting the button the key fob instead of in the car worked. but if anyone has any ideas about the parasitic draw I'm all ears
In my sItuation; alarm was not armed when battery died; so for me once small fuse panel hood relay was energized i just reached floor hood lever and hood popped open. Also that hood fuse requires low current 12v; thus using heavy high current jumper cable presents too much resistance to energize that small 12v relay that sits directly above the red hood fuse that passes that passes 12v to hood release fuse. I used low current pigtail jumper wires to energize relay.
Patrick
note 12v small relay that sits above hood red fuse carrier; once that relay is energized the hood can be floor lever released open; of if car alerm was armed; then use fob to open hood.
When connected correctly you will definitely hear a click as the bypass relay energizes. Make sure no key in ignition and hold down the button on key fob for at least 4+ seconds.
Was your key stuck and could not be released ?
Patrick
Go to fuse box and check current draw with multimeter one fuse at a time. Fuse that is drawing current with everything turned off is the circuit with the parasitic draw. Investigate that circuit from there.
eat idea !
I will do that but syspect its the alarm circuit that’s drawing current 24/7; even when not armed.
Hi,
An alternative way to find out in which fuse current flows, is measuring the voltage drop over the fuse. The document below shows the voltagedrop vs current
Hi,
An alternative way to find out in which fuse current flows, is measuring the voltage drop over the fuse. The document below shows the voltagedrop vs current
Regards
Hans
So the fuse itself acts like a resister voltage drop ? The heat generated across fuse expressed as wattage. Theoretically, in total, the fuse panel as a whole functions as a resister and over time could easily drain car battery. Today installed new DieHard; this time no cigar; I'm taken a direct to battery maintainer connection via wiper blade cable as suggested by a forum member. The cigar charging is after the fuse panel while charging directly to battery terminal posts is before fuse panel.
So the fuse itself acts like a resister voltage drop ? .
Yes thats correct, every conductor has a certain resistance, so when currect flows a voltage drop arises according to Ohm's law
Originally Posted by C4S993
Theoretically, in total, the fuse panel as a whole functions as a resister and over time could easily drain car battery. .
No, as the fuse panel is connected in series it does not drain the car battery, It causes, as any conductor in which current flows, a small loss (harmless heat). If a resistor is placed in parallel with a car battery (so connected between the - and + pole) it will drain the battery
Yes thats correct, every conductor has a certain resistance, so when currect flows a voltage drop arises according to Ohm's law
No, as the fuse panel is connected in series it does not drain the car battery, It causes, as any conductor in which current flows, a small loss (harmless heat). If a resistor is placed in parallel with a car battery (so connected between the - and + pole) it will drain the battery
Regards
Hans
911 fuse panel has many more fuses than average car. It's no wonder that mass fuses are draining the battery; there is no other plausible explanation why current 911 are prone to battery drain. Thus, it's imperative that the modern 911 have 24/7 battery maintainer when stored weeks at a time. Just running it once in awhile won't keep up with the fuse panel drain.
Patrick
'07 GT3
08-23-2021, 04:53 PM
Battery/Hood latch
