Originally Posted by reichertje

Thanks! Definitely a different feeling than buying the other vehicles I have.

I will likely get the scope done just for peace of mind. I don't really have recourse for action to return - as CA does not have a "cool down" period. But, the Carfax and maintenance records had a huge factor in considering this vehicle from the beginning. A lot of work had been done - preventatively and as scheduled. Some minor things (interior door panel trim and a few others seem to be specific to this car). Overall, the car is in great shape.

It has 63037 miles on it, and just had all service for 60k completed as well as at 54k the following:

• Clutch replaced
• Coolant reservoir replaced
• Oil and filter changed
• Cooling system bled
• Clutch slave cylinder replaced

There was also the following done at 15k:

• Battery/charging system checked
• A/C compressor replaced
• Intake manifold gasket(s) replaced
• Antifreeze/coolant flushed/changed
• Cooling system bled
• Alternator replaced
• PCV valve replaced

There are roughly 20 records in carfax - and the 3 dealers that have serviced the vehicle are local, to where I can call or drop by to try and get them.

Originally Posted by reichertje

I
I tend to take what the forums and the internet "say" and critically think about it a bit (engineer and program management in my work life), so making sense out of chaos and noise is right up my alley. I am happy with the purchase. So, unless the PPI comes back with some bull***t, I am good.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by TerrestrialFlyte

That’s what pushed me to get my 06, outside of the fact that it checked literally almost every block on my wishlist. Good maintenance records at the dealer by first owner. Second owner owns a European car shop. When I was shopping for a place to do the PPI his place was the place I was going to send it to. Then I found out he was the seller as well as the owner of the shop.

Anywho, water pump could be done preventatively if it hasn’t already been done. As you probably already know, if you do bore scope it, you really wanna go from the bottom if you want to see definitively if it’s started. Yes, it can be seen from the top save for the last 2 inches or so that would be hidden by the pistons at BDC. I would recommend checking fuel trims to verify there aren’t any minor vacuum leaks. Some advocate new fuel injectors or at least using some sort of injector cleaner on a regular basis. And as you stated, it all depends on how much of what “they” say on the internet you choose to believe.

Originally Posted by PV997

Oh good grief not you too! Word of advice from someone who's brain is wired similarly with the same technical background, now that you've pulled the trigger stop thinking about it. Get the inspection done (hopefully okay) but after that just enjoy the car. These cars make lots of little ticking noises and have strange smells, but don't obsess over it. For most of us our first Porsche was the fulfillment of a lifelong dream, enjoy it and don't drive yourself crazy worrying about every little tick noise or start-up sound. Nothing here needs to be managed but enjoying the car. And don't read any more bore scoring threads until you've put at least 1000 miles on it.

Congrats on the purchase and hope to see you out there, I'm in the South Bay/Palos Verdes area. Drop me a PM if you are close by.

Originally Posted by Petza914

A boroscope procedure and proper sump reinstall on a 997.1 is a 2 day process because of the oil drainage and sealant setup time. How many of them do you think have been done this way - I'm betting zero.

The .2 engine is different as it's sump plate has an integrated seal and can be put right back on.

Originally Posted by sandwedge

Goodness. I bet this post of yours took a lot of people by surprise including me. Seems like bore scoring has overtaken the old and tired IMS discussions. So many recent posts about "must include a borescope with the PPI" lately. I had no idea a proper scope was that involved. My impression has been that it can be done by simply removing each spark plug to get a good view of the cylinder walls. Obviously not the proper way of doing it.

As you say though, wonder how many scope inspections are done right as you describe it. Your guess of zero or next to it is probably a good guess. If that's the case which seems likely then a scope inspection done half a$$ could create a path for an oil leak on an engine that was just fine prior to the compromised scope inspection. The irony....

Originally Posted by Petza914

There's value in a scope through the plug holes as it will show you scoring that has progressed quite far and goes all the way up the wall. What it won't show you is an engine in the very early stages of scoring where the piston skirt has just started touching the wall when the piston changes direction at the bottom of the stroke.

The plug hole inspection can be used to eliminate a bad car, but doesn't completely guarantee a good car...but it's better than nothing.

Originally Posted by Doug H

Aren’t most .1 Ss going to show scoring on the skirt/lower side? I think very high chance will find scuffing at the least in piston side so since already own just do plug side to see if rebuild imminent. Maybe do lower side if had not purchased. She nice stuck with it either way, I’d just drive it like I stole and forget about it unless symptoms appear.

Originally Posted by Petza914

Maybe because they don't want removal and reinstallation of the sump plate to cause a leak or clog up the inlet screen with silicone and cause engine failure. If I was to sell one of my totally drip free 997s, I wouldn't allow the sump plate to be removed for a boroscope. Installing those properly on a 997.1 is a tedious process. First both sides need to be properly cleaned of the old sealant - that means lightly scraping with a plastic razor blade held perpendicular to the surface and being very careful not to scratch the aluminum as that scratch becomes an oil pathway. Everything needs to be dry and spotless before reinstall so the seal t bonds properly, which means hours of waiting time for all the oil to drip down the walls so it stops and doesn't contaminate the sealing surface. Then the proper thin smear of sealant used on the mating surface so that when it's torqued, very little squeezes inward as that's the stuff that comes loose and then clogs up the oil pickup screen. The amount you see squishing out is also squishing in and any shop that puts a bead on the surface (most of them) rather than a thin smeared coat with their finger, has used too much. Then it needs to be torqued properly in a cross-cross pattern and the torque spec is low so really needs to be done with an 1/8" torque wrench. Then it needs to fully cure with air exposure for 24 hours - that means drain plug left out so air can get in there, and on my silver car with deep sump that has a windage tray, it's double the work as there are two sealing surfaces - the windage tray to the motor and then the sump to the windage tray.

A boroscope procedure and proper sump reinstall on a 997.1 is a 2 day process because of the oil drainage and sealant setup time. How many of them do you think have been done this way - I'm betting zero.

The .2 engine is different as it's sump plate has an integrated seal and can be put right back on.

Originally Posted by Quadcammer

That is all insanely unnecessary, just so you know.

Clean surfaces well, 1.5mm bead, install, wait maybe 30 min and fill it.

Never a leak