Changed oil, car won’t start now
12-20-2023, 09:18 AM
#1
Changed oil, car won’t start now
Hey all. Thank you for taking the time. I changed the oil recently and now my car won’t start. You hear a shshhshshsh and more sounds but no start. I checked for battery issues and that’s not the case. Sounds like engine is not getting fuel or pressure to begin starting.
two mistakes I made:
let oil drain for too long
didn't remove the fuel pump fuse.
This is for a 2006 C4
any advice recommended before I decide to tow it to my mechanic.
two mistakes I made:
let oil drain for too long
didn't remove the fuel pump fuse.
This is for a 2006 C4
any advice recommended before I decide to tow it to my mechanic.
12-20-2023, 09:44 AM
#3
12-20-2023, 10:06 AM
#4
That still should not trigger a "no start" scenario.
It is most likely just a coincidence.
It is most likely just a coincidence.
12-20-2023, 10:15 AM
#5
got it! I’m thinking it’s something related to fuel pump fuse. I’m just not sure how to troubleshoot to get some fuel running to the engine after sitting without oil or pressure for a couple days.
12-20-2023, 10:25 AM
#6
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
2009 C2S 193K miles
You did nothing wrong... a coincidence.
Why would you remove the fuel pump fuse? This is very odd, not a requirement, nor a "thing" to do.
I suspect your battery. You noted it is not... why do you say this? You can always test the battery by swapping with another car.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
You did nothing wrong... a coincidence.
Why would you remove the fuel pump fuse? This is very odd, not a requirement, nor a "thing" to do.
I suspect your battery. You noted it is not... why do you say this? You can always test the battery by swapping with another car.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 12-20-2023 at 10:27 AM.
12-20-2023, 10:35 AM
#7
2009 C2S 193K miles
You did nothing wrong... a coincidence.
Why would you remove the fuel pump fuse? This is very odd, not a requirement, nor a "thing" to do.
I suspect your battery. You noted it is not... why do you say this? You can always test the battery by swapping with another car.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
You did nothing wrong... a coincidence.
Why would you remove the fuel pump fuse? This is very odd, not a requirement, nor a "thing" to do.
I suspect your battery. You noted it is not... why do you say this? You can always test the battery by swapping with another car.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
however maybe I killed the battery? I did leave the engine bay open for days and I’m guessing that light stayed on. But I also tried to jump the battery this morning even after removing it from the trickle charger. Should I still test the battery further? Thank you for taking the time.
Trending Topics
12-20-2023, 10:42 AM
#8
I would get the battery tested - seems like the most likely culprit.
If you can pull it out you can get it tested at auto one or other retailers- just make sure you put an old t-shirt or rag in the frunk latch area so you don’t accidentally lock the frunk with no battery in it.
If you can pull it out you can get it tested at auto one or other retailers- just make sure you put an old t-shirt or rag in the frunk latch area so you don’t accidentally lock the frunk with no battery in it.
12-20-2023, 11:18 AM
#9
Hey all. Thank you for taking the time. I changed the oil recently and now my car won’t start. You hear a shshhshshsh and more sounds but no start. I checked for battery issues and that’s not the case. Sounds like engine is not getting fuel or pressure to begin starting.
two mistakes I made:
let oil drain for too long
didn't remove the fuel pump fuse.
This is for a 2006 C4
any advice recommended before I decide to tow it to my mechanic.
two mistakes I made:
let oil drain for too long
didn't remove the fuel pump fuse.
This is for a 2006 C4
any advice recommended before I decide to tow it to my mechanic.
someone replied this to me below on another forum. Does it sound like what I may need to do to troubleshoot?
“So the engine cranks but sounds different…like it has low/no compression. I would bet you let the oil drain from the cylinder walls/pistons, thusly not allowing the compression rings to seal. Normally on inline 6s I put a cap full of oil in each spark plug hole, fires up after a long crank every time. Your results may vary on a horizontally opposed engine and youll have to inject it, but it should work.”
12-20-2023, 11:35 AM
#10
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
someone replied this to me below on another forum. Does it sound like what I may need to do to troubleshoot?
“So the engine cranks but sounds different…like it has low/no compression. I would bet you let the oil drain from the cylinder walls/pistons, thusly not allowing the compression rings to seal. Normally on inline 6s I put a cap full of oil in each spark plug hole, fires up after a long crank every time. Your results may vary on a horizontally opposed engine and youll have to inject it, but it should work.”
“So the engine cranks but sounds different…like it has low/no compression. I would bet you let the oil drain from the cylinder walls/pistons, thusly not allowing the compression rings to seal. Normally on inline 6s I put a cap full of oil in each spark plug hole, fires up after a long crank every time. Your results may vary on a horizontally opposed engine and youll have to inject it, but it should work.”
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
The following 3 users liked this post by Bruce In Philly:
12-20-2023, 11:56 AM
#11
Rennlist Member
someone replied this to me below on another forum. Does it sound like what I may need to do to troubleshoot?
“So the engine cranks but sounds different…like it has low/no compression. I would bet you let the oil drain from the cylinder walls/pistons, thusly not allowing the compression rings to seal. Normally on inline 6s I put a cap full of oil in each spark plug hole, fires up after a long crank every time. Your results may vary on a horizontally opposed engine and youll have to inject it, but it should work.”
“So the engine cranks but sounds different…like it has low/no compression. I would bet you let the oil drain from the cylinder walls/pistons, thusly not allowing the compression rings to seal. Normally on inline 6s I put a cap full of oil in each spark plug hole, fires up after a long crank every time. Your results may vary on a horizontally opposed engine and youll have to inject it, but it should work.”
I often let my oil drain overnight, to the point where it stops dripping and I haven’t had an issue nor have I heard it being an issue anywhere else.
So draining for a few more days wouldn’t have changed anything.
Plus, wouldn’t the oil that was going to drain to pan going to drain to pan anyway? So there shouldn’t be much difference in a car that sits in the garage for a few weeks and what happened here.
Besides once you start your car the oil will be distributed if everything was working properly.
Have you tried pulling codes to see if anything was captured? Did you do anything else recently besides the oil change?
Maybe your oil pickup/scavenger pump failed? Might want to check that out.
Did you measure the amount of oil you removed? I did this the last time and I got out ~8.75l trs/9.25 qts from an overnight drain.
12-20-2023, 11:59 AM
#12
Three Wheelin'
someone replied this to me below on another forum. Does it sound like what I may need to do to troubleshoot?
“So the engine cranks but sounds different…like it has low/no compression. I would bet you let the oil drain from the cylinder walls/pistons, thusly not allowing the compression rings to seal. Normally on inline 6s I put a cap full of oil in each spark plug hole, fires up after a long crank every time. Your results may vary on a horizontally opposed engine and youll have to inject it, but it should work.”
“So the engine cranks but sounds different…like it has low/no compression. I would bet you let the oil drain from the cylinder walls/pistons, thusly not allowing the compression rings to seal. Normally on inline 6s I put a cap full of oil in each spark plug hole, fires up after a long crank every time. Your results may vary on a horizontally opposed engine and youll have to inject it, but it should work.”
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...and-997-a.html
12-20-2023, 12:11 PM
#13
Race Director
someone replied this to me below on another forum. Does it sound like what I may need to do to troubleshoot?
“So the engine cranks but sounds different…like it has low/no compression. I would bet you let the oil drain from the cylinder walls/pistons, thusly not allowing the compression rings to seal. Normally on inline 6s I put a cap full of oil in each spark plug hole, fires up after a long crank every time. Your results may vary on a horizontally opposed engine and youll have to inject it, but it should work.”
“So the engine cranks but sounds different…like it has low/no compression. I would bet you let the oil drain from the cylinder walls/pistons, thusly not allowing the compression rings to seal. Normally on inline 6s I put a cap full of oil in each spark plug hole, fires up after a long crank every time. Your results may vary on a horizontally opposed engine and youll have to inject it, but it should work.”
As to the battery, it may have sufficient voltage, but insufficient amps. Either check the battery or just borrow one from another car. That is likely to be your issue.
12-20-2023, 12:21 PM
#14
This is BS. Its a horizontal motor so if anything, oil would pool on the bottom side of the cylinder. That said, it would be no different with oil in the engine or not as it sits in the sump, not flooding the cylinders. So unless your car doesn't start after sitting for a few days normally, this is not the problem.
As to the battery, it may have sufficient voltage, but insufficient amps. Either check the battery or just borrow one from another car. That is likely to be your issue.
As to the battery, it may have sufficient voltage, but insufficient amps. Either check the battery or just borrow one from another car. That is likely to be your issue.
12-20-2023, 12:26 PM
#15
Race Director
I just tested the battery and is at 12.17 volts after a full night of recharge, this is the OEM battery. And I was having some issues with the battery a couple weeks prior but I did a full recharge and it fixed itself. Before my oil change my car sat outside overnight for the first time ever in the cold because I was working on one of my other vehicles. Maybe this killed my battery?
new battery= car starts