Brake job
#16
Wondering why I never had any problems replacing brake pads.... I never removed those dampers just the pads and everything was quick! Are you saying the dampers got stuck to the pads??
#17
Intermediate
I was able to get the vibration dampers free of the back of the pads the first time using a putty knife. Worked for both the plates on the front and the little press in disk for the rear. This saves having to remove the caliper to get the pads out. You want to avoid removing calipers if at all possible, as it’s very easy to strip the threads in the aluminum wheel carrier. If you do remove the calipers, make sure to blow out the threaded hole in the upright with compressed air and be super careful threading the bolts and with torque. If you have any aspirations of tracking and thus frequently replacing rotors, get Tarret caliper studs in before you inevitably strip the uprights.
Note you can re-use the vibration dampers. They don’t need to be glued to the pads to work, at least I never had any noise running them unattached.
Note you can re-use the vibration dampers. They don’t need to be glued to the pads to work, at least I never had any noise running them unattached.
Is this important ? That's another discussion in itself !!
Edit : if you think about it , if the dampeners are not attached to the brake pad , then they are not actually doing anything , so if that's the case and you do not notice any problems, by all means ignore them, remove them etc
Lots of brakes in other cars do not have dampeners , with no resulting issues.
Last edited by Der Mechaniker; 12-26-2023 at 01:04 AM. Reason: afterthought
#18
Intermediate
#19
Perhaps I should clarify previous statement that the dampers work fine unattached to the pads. I should have said that I never got any brake squeal using oem pads with them unattached.
I swap the pads a couple times a year to track pads and then back to oem, so removing the calipers each time to swap pads is impractical. You get a couple or so remove/reinstalls before the upright strips out reinstalling the caliper bolts, then looking at $000s to replace uprights or a big hassle drilling out and installing time serts.
So for a street only car that seems just a couple rotor/pad changes ever, sure, adhere them as Porsche intended which requires removing he calipers (and replace the caliper bolts each time too 😀. But if you will be swapping pads frequently, you’ve got to consider other options. Switching to caliper studs offers best of both worlds as you can remove the calipers any number of times with damaging anything.
I swap the pads a couple times a year to track pads and then back to oem, so removing the calipers each time to swap pads is impractical. You get a couple or so remove/reinstalls before the upright strips out reinstalling the caliper bolts, then looking at $000s to replace uprights or a big hassle drilling out and installing time serts.
So for a street only car that seems just a couple rotor/pad changes ever, sure, adhere them as Porsche intended which requires removing he calipers (and replace the caliper bolts each time too 😀. But if you will be swapping pads frequently, you’ve got to consider other options. Switching to caliper studs offers best of both worlds as you can remove the calipers any number of times with damaging anything.