jfort

2007 C2S. 50K miles. Doing front brakes. I had not seen before the part behind the pads, glued to the pad with cylinders that go inside the pistons. What are they called? A consumable I take it? They had to be destroyed to get pads out. 4 of the cylinders were corroded, in effect welded, inside the pistons. Had to disconnect hydraulics and remove calipers. Had a hard time getting more than one of the cylinders out Drilling. Heating. Soaking. Ruined one piston. Finally got cylinders out of pistons. Upon the recommendation of a friend/mechanic, we are replacing the pistons with titanium pistons and getting new seals. Is this typical? Will the titanium pistons keep it from happening again? Quit never sieze on the cylinders?

workhurts

I think those are Porsche’s version of a vibration damper. I removed mine and never put them back in. I do get brake squeal now. Oh well.

jchapura

To be sure it's the squeal-preventing vibration damper, please post a pic.

jchapura

Here's a pic of some dampers courtesy of fellow forum member Pete.

yelcab

Never heard of that piston problem. These anti-squeal shims do not come out gracefully. You have to remove the whole caliper before those pads can come out.

Der Mechaniker

yep. those are for the rear brakes though
If you are careful you can re-use , attach with new 3M high temp double sided adhesive/ "transfer tape" or eqivalent eg 3M 468MP

Fatsix

The same thing happened to my calipers. My mechanic had to drill and pry them out. He applied antiseaze to the new ones. Porsche should have used a material or coating that doesn’t corrode.

jfort

One cylinder stayed in the piston.

jfort

There was 50% wear left on the rotors and the pads weren’t bad. Really it was just a “it’s time “ winter project. I love Porsche brakes but this was not well engineered. Again, has anyone heard of titanium pistons? The two metals Porsche chose invite corrosion. And you shouldn’t have to completely remove the caliper to replace pads.

putting it back together will be different too. Never seize damper cylinders. Glue backs of dampers. Add pads. Push together. Sound right?

I’ve done many brake jobs but have never had all this. JEEZ!.

digs

Sounds right , I use lots of the brake lube where ever I can without getting the surfaces oily . Too bad the dampers bond in ? Likely caused by moisture and a long period in place . If the brakes were done every 5 years or so they may not bond in ? Wheel cleaner may also contribute ?

I am getting ready to do my 997 , hope I don't find bonded parts ! I will soak down with penetrating oil once the project begins . Never seize will also be heavily in the equation .

My 16 Panamera has plastic dampeners with o-rings , that may be the update to prevent the dreaded bonding ?

Petza914

These are the best anti-squeal dampers. The list rides on the rubber pad and they stay in place in the caliper piston with the prong. All the PCCBs front and rear use this setup. Some cars use those large metal cylinders that fit into the caliper piston and they rust together, get stuck and don't work as well, but I don't know if the pringed pads come large enough to substitute for them.

Suncoast parts sells the mixed sets of the sizes you need if you go to their website and enter your year and model info.

jfort

I do not see what is pictured at Suncoast. They have the double cylinder version like the ones I had trouble with. I am really interested to find what is pictured if they fit a 997.1 piston.

jfort

Pelican has the double cylinder type for 997.1. Anyone know of something better?

Petza914

https://www.suncoastparts.com/produc...635208602.html

They show these for the rears on a 997.1 S.

As I mentioned, they have them for the PCCB version F&R but may not have them for the fronts of a non-pccb car.

Here's what they show for PCCBs
https://www.suncoastparts.com/category/997SCERAMICS.html

jayzbird

I was able to get the vibration dampers free of the back of the pads the first time using a putty knife. Worked for both the plates on the front and the little press in disk for the rear. This saves having to remove the caliper to get the pads out. You want to avoid removing calipers if at all possible, as it’s very easy to strip the threads in the aluminum wheel carrier. If you do remove the calipers, make sure to blow out the threaded hole in the upright with compressed air and be super careful threading the bolts and with torque. If you have any aspirations of tracking and thus frequently replacing rotors, get Tarret caliper studs in before you inevitably strip the uprights.

Note you can re-use the vibration dampers. They don’t need to be glued to the pads to work, at least I never had any noise running them unattached.