Mobil 1 0W-40 Fans - 997.2 Owners Take Note
#76
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
In light of all of the thoughtful and insightful comments throughout this thread, it's given me pause to deeply contemplate the whole issue of motor oil choices.
And based on the persuasive assertions in the comments posted throughout this thread that imply or overtly suggest that some if not most of the critical motor oil YouTube videos out there are probably nothing more than ploys to get you to spend money on products that they themselves benefit from - I've concluded the following:
Mobil 1 sucks and I'll never use it.
And based on the persuasive assertions in the comments posted throughout this thread that imply or overtly suggest that some if not most of the critical motor oil YouTube videos out there are probably nothing more than ploys to get you to spend money on products that they themselves benefit from - I've concluded the following:
Mobil 1 sucks and I'll never use it.
The following users liked this post:
EVOMMM (04-22-2024)
#77
Nordschleife Master
As I said in an earlier post, isn't Mobil1 what you get if you have a Porsche dealership do your oil change. And aren't factory new cars delivered with Mobil 1? I may be behind the power curve on this and have no preference on motor oil but if the factory and the dealerships still keep pouring Mobil 1, how bad can it be? Just curious.
The following users liked this post:
ADias (04-23-2024)
#78
Nordschleife Master
I guess I don't see how new oil and filter a year ago with just over 2,000 miles of use can be damaging to the engine. I don't mind the minor cost of an oil and filter change but I don't like the idea of draining oil that's barely been used along with replacing a filter that probably looks as good as new.
#79
As long as the oil is not acidic I don't see time as a factor. When does acidity become a problem? Hmmm. At 2K miles I would wait. And with 4 to 5K mile OCIs I don't think acidity becomes a factor in these motors anyway.
The major contaminants over time are fuel and water. Both of these burn off when you drive a long enough distance.
And oxidation over time? I don't see that as a factor either.
Regardless of time (other than years) I would go by mileage.
Just my opinion.
The major contaminants over time are fuel and water. Both of these burn off when you drive a long enough distance.
And oxidation over time? I don't see that as a factor either.
Regardless of time (other than years) I would go by mileage.
Just my opinion.
The following 2 users liked this post by Wayne Smith:
Carrera2RS (04-23-2024),
vg247 (04-23-2024)
#80
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I've only put a little over 2,000 miles on my car since the last oil change a year ago. Best I can tell it hasn't burned a drop of oil since then. I have the "service now" alert on the dash now. What's your opinion? With what's basically new oil in the engine, can't it go a little longer? If yes, how far would you take it? I've read different opinions on this. Some say the old rule of thumb of oil change once a year or 10K miles whichever comes first is dated and no longer valid. The argument is that the 10K mile reference is still good but once a year regardless of miles during the year should be ignored.
I guess I don't see how new oil and filter a year ago with just over 2,000 miles of use can be damaging to the engine. I don't mind the minor cost of an oil and filter change but I don't like the idea of draining oil that's barely been used along with replacing a filter that probably looks as good as new.
I guess I don't see how new oil and filter a year ago with just over 2,000 miles of use can be damaging to the engine. I don't mind the minor cost of an oil and filter change but I don't like the idea of draining oil that's barely been used along with replacing a filter that probably looks as good as new.
#81
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
As I said in an earlier post, isn't Mobil1 what you get if you have a Porsche dealership do your oil change. And aren't factory new cars delivered with Mobil 1? I may be behind the power curve on this and have no preference on motor oil but if the factory and the dealerships still keep pouring Mobil 1, how bad can it be? Just curious.
The following 3 users liked this post by Petza914:
#82
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Oil acidity.... ah... another axe murder hiding in our closets... what, that is silly? Oh yea, how do you really know? Are you in your closet right now?
FWIW, I used Copilot and asked this question: "How long does it take for automobile oil to become acidic in a car?"
Automobile oil typically becomes more acidic with extended use, especially during long oil drain intervals. The buildup of acidity is related to lubricant oxidation and the ability of additives to neutralize the acidic materials formed. Here are some key points:
-------
What I find interesting about the above answer, is acidity is caused by use, not sitting or lack of use.... implication is you can let your car sit forever. I will note that as I understand it, if you car is stored, cycling between cool at night and warm at day, condensation will form on the inside of you engine and that can cause corrosion... another murderer in your closet.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (in Atlanta)
FWIW, I used Copilot and asked this question: "How long does it take for automobile oil to become acidic in a car?"
Automobile oil typically becomes more acidic with extended use, especially during long oil drain intervals. The buildup of acidity is related to lubricant oxidation and the ability of additives to neutralize the acidic materials formed. Here are some key points:
- Acidity Formation:
- As oil circulates through the engine, it oxidizes due to exposure to high temperatures and contaminants.
- Oxidation produces acidic compounds in the oil.
- Factors Influencing Acidity:
- Service History: The longer the oil remains in service, the more acidic it becomes.
- Oil Drain Intervals: Extended intervals lead to greater acidity buildup.
- Additive Effectiveness: Overbased additives help neutralize acids, but their effectiveness diminishes over time.
- Monitoring Acidity:
- Infrared spectroscopy is a meaningful method to monitor acidity and the neutralization of corrosive acids in the oil.
- It provides insights into the performance of metallic detergents and the concept of “reserve TBN” (Total Base Number).
- Maintenance Recommendations:
- Regular oil changes (around every 5,000 miles or 6 months) help maintain oil quality.
- Fresh oil replaces acidic oil, ensuring proper lubrication and preventing engine corrosion.
-------
What I find interesting about the above answer, is acidity is caused by use, not sitting or lack of use.... implication is you can let your car sit forever. I will note that as I understand it, if you car is stored, cycling between cool at night and warm at day, condensation will form on the inside of you engine and that can cause corrosion... another murderer in your closet.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (in Atlanta)
Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 04-23-2024 at 10:10 AM.
#83
I heard Exxon/mobile was caught buying used cars on the private market to cover up excessive wear in the engines. The collusion is thought to be between a few major automotive companies and the problem seems to be crappy oil.
Meanwhile a micro company in Georgia owned by an unsuccessful race family was purchased for billions by NASA due their patented discovery of a solution that totally prevents metal on metal wear.
Meanwhile a micro company in Georgia owned by an unsuccessful race family was purchased for billions by NASA due their patented discovery of a solution that totally prevents metal on metal wear.
#84
Rennlist Member
https://investor.exxonmobil.com/news...n-of-strategic
https://corporate.exxonmobil.com/Wha...-collaboration
"Strategic Collaboration" which is perfectly fine, however ...these rarely benefit the consumer. Is this the BEST oil for your car or is it an OK oil for your car, that's the question.
Mobil 1 has gone under numerous formula changes over the years, I stopped using it in the mid 2000's after the initial change. I believe it was a lower zinc content and a high detergent content. (83 911 SC at the time)
Since then I don't trust the brand anymore. That's my personal experience.
#85
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
"Strategic Collaboration" which is perfectly fine, however ...these rarely benefit the consumer. Is this the BEST oil for your car or is it an OK oil for your car, that's the question.
Mobil 1 has gone under numerous formula changes over the years, I stopped using it in the mid 2000's after the initial change. I believe it was a lower zinc content and a high detergent content. (83 911 SC at the time)
Since then I don't trust the brand anymore. That's my personal experience.
Mobil 1 has gone under numerous formula changes over the years, I stopped using it in the mid 2000's after the initial change. I believe it was a lower zinc content and a high detergent content. (83 911 SC at the time)
Since then I don't trust the brand anymore. That's my personal experience.
After all, in general, all out-sourced components are usually awarded to the lowest bidder who can meet specifications... in all industries.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 04-23-2024 at 01:10 PM.
#86
I ran Mobile One 0-40 in my 2010 C4S PDK for 135K miles. My wear metals were the same as Pete's with Driven when I had the same miles between OCIs. What I did notice is that above 4 or 5K miles the metal numbers climbed at a faster rate.
This was with or without MoS2. In retrospect I would not recommend more than 4K miles between changes with this oil.
So I switched to LM (blue jug) and added MoS2. Impressions and observations
... The car seemed to run a bit quieter. While I had never burned oil before, I burned a half quart between changes with this oil.
I just did my third oil change. Cross contamination should not be a factor. The sample is mailed and I'll see what the results are.
In the meantime, I picked up 8 quarts of Driven DI and that is in the car now. I'm curious to see the differences. Results? To be seen.
This was with or without MoS2. In retrospect I would not recommend more than 4K miles between changes with this oil.
So I switched to LM (blue jug) and added MoS2. Impressions and observations
... The car seemed to run a bit quieter. While I had never burned oil before, I burned a half quart between changes with this oil.
I just did my third oil change. Cross contamination should not be a factor. The sample is mailed and I'll see what the results are.
In the meantime, I picked up 8 quarts of Driven DI and that is in the car now. I'm curious to see the differences. Results? To be seen.
#87
Rennlist Member
Porsche branded products are all manufactured by someone else to their specs or paid to use the branding
this does not mean that aftermarket is inferior or not to spec
the challenge is dissecting the info which is nearly impossible because manufacturers have layers and cross referencing with label owners
so follow the light it could be a way out or a train coming at you 😳
this does not mean that aftermarket is inferior or not to spec
the challenge is dissecting the info which is nearly impossible because manufacturers have layers and cross referencing with label owners
so follow the light it could be a way out or a train coming at you 😳
#89
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#90
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Also, the A40 additive package guarantees the exhaust system (cats) will make it to the 10 year mandatory emissions warranty, so they're short on Phosphorous and Zinc to mitigate the risk of cat replacement. Those components prevent valve train wear but at the potential risk of cat damage, and cats are expensive from a warranty standpoint. I'd rather buy new high performance cats for $1,500 then do a $5,000 head job but Porsche has figure out what package makes the cats and rest.of the engine make it paat the warranty periods.
If using an A40 approved oil, it probably doesn't matter much which one you use because they all use the same base additive package. What separates the Driven oils is that they're NOT A40 approved and why they have the high ZDDP and Moly that other oils don't since those aren't in the A40 package
If using an A40 approved oil, it probably doesn't matter much which one you use because they all use the same base additive package. What separates the Driven oils is that they're NOT A40 approved and why they have the high ZDDP and Moly that other oils don't since those aren't in the A40 package
The following users liked this post:
Graufuchs (04-27-2024)