Deanski

For those that use Zaino, a newer version of Z5 is soon to be released.

The new one is Z5 Pro. It will hide marring better and give a better gloss than the previous version. Together with ZFX, and applied up to three coats in one session makes a good layer of protection. For even more gloss, after the three coats of Z5 Pro, you can start the next session/day with Z2 Pro with ZFX.

Also, the new Z8 "Grand Finale" spray QD is outstanding for those with sealants on the finish. If you use wax, stay with Pinnicle, Meguiars, etc for QD sprays since most are more geared toward wax finshes.

No matter wat you use as a LSP (Last Step Process) always get your paint smooth, and fully polished as THAT'S how you get the shine/gloss from.

Enjoy your "wax on wax off"

Deanski

mdonline

OC,

I car was treated with Permplate by the dealer. Since, as soon as I brought it home, I put on two layers of P21S. Now, about every third wash, I put on another coat of P21S. The car has a few minor swirl marks but basically still in pristine condition. It has 3000 miles on it. Oh, has two chips in the hood.

Does this mean that if I continue to wax my car that I don't ever have to worry about claying or polishing???

Thanks

Deanski

No, waxing will continue to add to the luster, HOWEVER, road debris and tree sap etc will find it's way onto the finish. If you wash it often with a nice sheepskin mit, use a two-buckect method or foam gun will keep the finish pretty free from anything. If your finish feels it has small bumps or not glass smooth after washing, then you have to clay off the items. Use a very fine clay, say like the new Sonus Ultra-fine clay so you don't remove too much wax, but in reallity, the wax in that area clayed will be removed. After claying, I'd re-wash the area before waxing to remove any debris or clay leftover. Sure, you can polish as well prior to waxing again, use a fine polish or glaze since you're using wax, the Paintwork Cleanser works very well with the P21 Wax. As for glaze, any fine glaze will work to hide/fill minor marring. 3M, Meguiars, Mothers, Menzerna etc. Glaze works by filling and hiding. It may take several coats, then top with P21S.

Deanski

mungo69

Excellent info.

I'm a newbie (Porsche owner and Rennlist member). I bought my 2006 997C4 used. The finish is in great shape. It came with a clear bra, including the front bumper and fenders, side mirrors, and rear fender flares. I have a follow-up question for you: One of the clear bra sections on the ds rear fender has some fine scratches in it...as if the previous owner had scrubbed a bug off it. Can you recommend any product that might remove these scratches. I bought Meguiars plastic polish, but before I used it (and really screwed it up), and thought I'd get a second opinion.

Deanski

Clear paint protection film is not easy to resolve any scratches and if they can be felt by your fingernail, then it's time to replace it. If it's very very fine, there are polishes that can help, but you run the risk of "fogging" the film since it's so soft. You have to use a very fine polish with a finish pad to correct it, but then again, since I had film on my C2S, it's just easier to replace the film.

Newer films are coming to market, more clear than before and very good at repelling stone chipping better.

You may want to send a PM to Premier as they specialize in film and are the best on the west cost.

In the east, there are a few really good installers. One is Detailing Dynamics in Long Island. Here's a link to a few Porsche vehicles they did.

http://www.detailingdynamics.com/det...tion-film/1145

SO my best advise is to just look into replacing it at this time. After all, it's a 2006.

Regards,
Deanski

OCBen

Thank you.

Yes, I most certainly can.

If the scratch is not that noticeable I would leave it alone. I certainly wouldn't replace the film unless it has gotten so yellow that you notice the discoloration and it bothers you.

I wouldn't dare use a pad at all. The film is too soft for that.

When I had fine scratches on my 3M film I used a fine polish by hand to remove them.

I recommend this product for all fine polishing: http://www.properautocare.com/menfinpol.html

Deanski

Menzerna makes some of the best polishes! I normally use Menzerna exclusivly for just about all finishes since they make polishes from heavy cutting to the finest finish polish.

FPII is a good polish, but I use normally PO85RD for finishing. Only drawback with Menzerna is dusting, but I can take that due to the results.

There is more coming from Menzerna, but some are difficult to obtain in the USA. Still worth every penny.

I've used 3M for years and have learned on 3M until I was introduced to Menzerna long ago. It's just a great line of products in the right hands. In the wrong hands it can be frustrating or in some cases just not getting results due to wrong pad matching/machine/finish condition.

I love the way 85RD works with a finish pad and just a slight spritz of distilled water to work it longer. Finish comes out looking like a piano.

There metal polishes are just perfect for chrome, stainless etc. They make jewelers polishes for fine metals that are used throught the jewelers industry and are finding their way into other metal finishing. Same for the woodworking polishes.

I did a set of exhaust tips on a felt bench wheel used for jewelers finishes and a bar of Menzerna metal polish and it came out perfect. Then again, a good use Flitz also works very well with less effort in my opinion.

For those looking into more detailing product info and tips, you can view them over at Autopia.org

Regards,
Deanski

mungo69

Thanks for the valuable info. The scratches are barely visible to anyone but me, and then only at certain angles and lighting situations. I may leave well enough alone for now or try one of the treatments you and OCBen recommend in an obscure location, like the bottom of the bumper.