Winter storage checklist thread
#1
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Thread Starter
Winter storage checklist thread
Car goes into storage at the end of November for 3 months.
Checklist - anything else?
- battery tender
- cover
- inflate tires to 50 pounds
- interior desicant (baking soda in a pan)
- clean and wax
Checklist - anything else?
- battery tender
- cover
- inflate tires to 50 pounds
- interior desicant (baking soda in a pan)
- clean and wax
#2
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Location: Arlington Heights, IL
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Check you owner's manual, IIRC the tires should be 58 PSI.
Also, I recommend parking on a plastic tarp. You can buy a decent painters tarp at Home Depot. Fold and re-use each year.
Stabilize your fuel, and run in.
Remove any food items from the cabin. Chewing gum, scented lip balm, and anything that could feeze, like a water spray bottle.
Suspend parts of your car insurance, and save $$$.
I also put desiccators in the frunk and trunk in my Boxster. You may want to put some in your frunk.
The first Saturday of each month, I roll the car by hand, about 6-10 inches to further protect against flat spots. The last month of storage, I increase this interval to weekly.
Don’t park the car in gear, nor with the e-brake engaged. Just block the wheels.
Also, I recommend parking on a plastic tarp. You can buy a decent painters tarp at Home Depot. Fold and re-use each year.
Stabilize your fuel, and run in.
Remove any food items from the cabin. Chewing gum, scented lip balm, and anything that could feeze, like a water spray bottle.
Suspend parts of your car insurance, and save $$$.
I also put desiccators in the frunk and trunk in my Boxster. You may want to put some in your frunk.
The first Saturday of each month, I roll the car by hand, about 6-10 inches to further protect against flat spots. The last month of storage, I increase this interval to weekly.
Don’t park the car in gear, nor with the e-brake engaged. Just block the wheels.
#3
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My mechanic recommends filling the gas up to minimize the volume in which moisture can condense.
Don't forget if you're running straight dH20 to change that out to glycol.
I would also put a Teddy Bear in the passenger seat so it doesn't get too lonely.
Don't forget if you're running straight dH20 to change that out to glycol.
I would also put a Teddy Bear in the passenger seat so it doesn't get too lonely.
#4
Poseur
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For the rubber on door and trunk seals, get some baby powder and rub that on both sides of the rubber seals. It will extend the life of the rubber as well as keep the rubber from sticking to the metal part of the car if the car gets very cold and moisture is a factor. Even if you simply park it for the duration the talcom powder will help all the rubber.
#6
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In the "hibernation package" that my dealer sells they include steel wool to put in the exhaust tips and engine air intake to prevent mice from getting in; I guess it can't hurt.
The other thing they include are small pieces of styrofoam to place under the wiper arms so your wiper blades stand off the windshield and don't take a set. You could also just remove the blades...
I'm trying this stuff called Mouse Magic in the garage to keep the little SOB's at bay - and dryer sheets in the car.
The other thing they include are small pieces of styrofoam to place under the wiper arms so your wiper blades stand off the windshield and don't take a set. You could also just remove the blades...
I'm trying this stuff called Mouse Magic in the garage to keep the little SOB's at bay - and dryer sheets in the car.
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#9
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I've seen almost everything I do in the above with one big exception. Not only fuel stabilizer, but enzyme treatment for the ethanol we are all stuck with now. Startron in the blue bottle - I get it at the marine supply store for my boats, but works for cars too.
Basic list:
Clean and wax
Inflate tires
Fuel stabilizer and enzyme / top off gas
Battery tender (Porsche lighter model, was $55 at Suncoast)
Cover
Mouse control placed around the car
I also run the car every 2-3 weeks for about 20 minutes (oil temp), roll it into a new position.
Basic list:
Clean and wax
Inflate tires
Fuel stabilizer and enzyme / top off gas
Battery tender (Porsche lighter model, was $55 at Suncoast)
Cover
Mouse control placed around the car
I also run the car every 2-3 weeks for about 20 minutes (oil temp), roll it into a new position.
#11
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Tell us why you think so. Just about everything I've read and been told by Porsche mechanics have suggested running / driving the car to circulate the fluids, with the key being it has to be long enough to bring the car up to operating temperature (not coolant, rather oil).
#12
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Tell us why you think so. Just about everything I've read and been told by Porsche mechanics have suggested running / driving the car to circulate the fluids, with the key being it has to be long enough to bring the car up to operating temperature (not coolant, rather oil).
I put my cars down in October (987S) and late November (993TT). I don't touch 'em (start) till March/April.
#14
This is also the consensus thinking in the moto world. If you're going to run the engine during a winter storage, don't do it for a short period of time. If you run it for an hour or something (going out riding) it fully blows the humidity out of the engine and exhaust. otherwise you're just collecting humidity in the crankcase and exhaust.
I'm not sure if there is any data out there to support this but it seems to make logical sense and most riders that I've interacted with believe it.
I'm not sure if there is any data out there to support this but it seems to make logical sense and most riders that I've interacted with believe it.