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I can tell you that I believe that Performance Friction PF97 pads are awesome...huge amounts of initial bit but I believe they generate more heat than the Pagid Yellows that I normally use. It seems like the PFC's turned my caliper dark redish brown quicker than the Pagid yelows do.
Izzone swears by the Endless pads.....I might try them next, just not sure about them and I really trust the Pagids or Perf Frictions.
When I get brake usage high, it helps me to check a few human things:
1)How much force am I applying to the pedal? Let's say it takes "X" lbs of force to hit ABS. Well make sure you are not applying 2X or 3x or 10X force on the pedal. If you are, you achieve the same lap times, but increase temperatures and physical force on rotors.
Just changing this from ~3X to 1X at VIR affected the rate I cracked rotors. hmmm..
2)stability control/ESC - turn it off off off!! amazing how much brake involvement you get with that stuff.
3)if you dip the front with the brakes for turn in ---.. now this is a good thing, but if you dip the front a bit and happen to stay light on the brakes after the benefit is achieved (better turn in), you may be slowing yourself down and are creating uneeded heat in the brakes.
The other ones are more track dependent and I just live with them:
1)decreasing radius turns/trail braking ---- these are the ones I chalk up as just necessary for good laptimes... yes they generate more heat. I have had a codriver in the same car/day that did not trail brake generating 400 F less brake temps than me that did trail brake one turn. I was consistently ~4sec faster than him, so, this is not conclusive but trail braking is probably a factor in the large difference.
2)long straight heavy threshold braking. - live with it
Interesting thread. Carbotech XP12s are outstanding pads, so let's not worry about them. I do think however you might want to consider slotted/grooved and cryo-treated rotors/discs for longevity. We've run Nitrac happily. You might also want stickier tyres (always help braking) and lastly, (as above) "the nut behind the wheel": a change in driving style/braking style can make a big difference. In my experience braking later and harder is better than early and softer, as the latter generates more heat... but I've not driven Sebring, so what do I know.
I think Sebring is known to kill everything - that track is rough on suspension too.
As for brake pads I just purchased a new set of G LOC (RT12) brake pads from a fellow Rennlister. Now I didn't install these on my Porsche but they did get swapped into my 16' Shelby GT350. I'll just say that they nearly put me through the front windshield when I went to stop at my first intersection - seriously just nuts (and keep in mind this is on a 3,769 lb sports coupe). Keep in mind my daily is a PCCB Carrera S - not even close to the stopping power I have going on right now in the GT350.
I will have these on the track this week with them to see how they really hold up. FYSA I believe Carbotech XP12 might be virtually the same pad as the GLOC - even read same engineers started the new company. Haven't confirmed that.
When I get brake usage high, it helps me to check a few human things:
1)How much force am I applying to the pedal? Let's say it takes "X" lbs of force to hit ABS. Well make sure you are not applying 2X or 3x or 10X force on the pedal. If you are, you achieve the same lap times, but increase temperatures and physical force on rotors.
Just changing this from ~3X to 1X at VIR affected the rate I cracked rotors. hmmm..
2)stability control/ESC - turn it off off off!! amazing how much brake involvement you get with that stuff.
3)if you dip the front with the brakes for turn in ---.. now this is a good thing, but if you dip the front a bit and happen to stay light on the brakes after the benefit is achieved (better turn in), you may be slowing yourself down and are creating uneeded heat in the brakes.
The other ones are more track dependent and I just live with them:
1)decreasing radius turns/trail braking ---- these are the ones I chalk up as just necessary for good laptimes... yes they generate more heat. I have had a codriver in the same car/day that did not trail brake generating 400 F less brake temps than me that did trail brake one turn. I was consistently ~4sec faster than him, so, this is not conclusive but trail braking is probably a factor in the large difference.
2)long straight heavy threshold braking. - live with it
Interesting thread. Carbotech XP12s are outstanding pads, so let's not worry about them. I do think however you might want to consider slotted/grooved and cryo-treated rotors/discs for longevity. We've run Nitrac happily. You might also want stickier tyres (always help braking) and lastly, (as above) "the nut behind the wheel": a change in driving style/braking style can make a big difference. In my experience braking later and harder is better than early and softer, as the latter generates more heat... but I've not driven Sebring, so what do I know.
hmm, not sure why to use anything else other than pagids rs29 and pfc07. both are good brands with good reputation. to be more specific - pfc07 in front, pfc01 in rear.
pfc will bite well but will eat up rotors fast and require excellent external cooling to rotors. but they are best.
pagids are pads of choice for enduro and will prolong your rotors but have less initial bite than pfc. it is an old thread but hardly anything changed about all this.
I guess not too much has changed in the world of brakes since 2011. We have the RSL1's in stock pre-beaded in, GT3/GT2 ducts (front and rear), and stainless brake lines, some is not listed on our site currently but shoot us a PM or email if you're interested!
05-23-2011, 11:09 AM
