ROTtec Front LEDs Installed
11-19-2012, 12:40 AM
#107
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
997 LED DRL
Guys, I just installed the LED DRLs into my 2005 997, but have only put about 50 miles them since the install. Today, I hooked-up my Durametric Pro Cable and cleared all the error codes that were stored relative to the lights (I had my rears out of the car for about a month to do an Exhaust and Bumper Project) so some of the codes stored were because there were times I ran the car with only some of the lights or no lights hooked-up and I wanted to start with a clean slate. Anyway, I bring this up because while doing some coding with the Durametric today (side markers as signal indicators, key fob windows up & down, etc), I noticed in one of the modules (might have been "Front") that there's an option to select LED lights. I didn't do this because I wasn't sure what it would do, but I'm wondering if maybe the car will change the way it looks for resistance feedback from the lights if this is enabled. It also looks like there may be a way to disable the notifications for certain light failures so if the LEDs are working fine, but just throwing codes, we may be able to turn off those notifications that show the narrative errors or the red exclamation point. I'm fairly new to the 997 and Durametric but saw these and thought maybe someone on the forum with more knowledge in this area might be able to shed some light (no pun intended - well maybe a little) on this for us.
I also hooked up my DRLs with the current sensing module and an SPDT relay so I could illuminate the center horizontal bar as the DRLs, without overloading the DRL module - so far this works great. I'll do another post here with all that info and a link to a movie I made that talks about how and why I did it this way.
I also hooked up my DRLs with the current sensing module and an SPDT relay so I could illuminate the center horizontal bar as the DRLs, without overloading the DRL module - so far this works great. I'll do another post here with all that info and a link to a movie I made that talks about how and why I did it this way.
11-19-2012, 12:45 AM
#108
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Front DRL Install with SPDT Relay & Current Sensing DRL Module
Guys, I am adding to this thread as I spent a lot of time wiring in these front LED DRL lights to work differently than the standard setup, which I think is pretty cool. This was done on my 2005 997.1 C2S so I don't know how much crosses over to the 997.2 cars. I wanted to use the Yellow LEDs as the Turn Signals (obvious), the lower bright LEDs as the Driving/Fog Lights, and only the center horizontal bar as the DRL with the Current Sensing Module activating them.
The current sensing module has leads that connect to the battery and sense the voltage shift between when the car is running (14v into it) or not running (12v into it) and powers the outputs only when the car is running, therefore, turning on the DRL lights only when the car is running. It works by doing nothing when it receives 12v (car off), but when it receives 14v when the car is running, it sends 12v out the L & R + and - leads to power the DRLs. This way you can have only the front lights that you want on as the DRLs, which in my case was the middle horizontal bar. I wanted to use the curent sensing DRL module so that the only place I had to tie into the factory Porsche wiring was right behind the new LED DRL lights for the parking light circuit.
One note: If the DRL option is enabled in the PCM of the car (PIWIS or Durametric programming), then the headlights are on also, which I didn't want, so the factory DRL option has to be disabled / turned off to do it my way.
So through trial and error, and burning out two of the Current Sensing DRL modules, what I discovered with the help of the seller I purchased the Current Sensing DRL module from, is that only the upper row of yellow LEDs and the lower row of white LEDs are actually LED lights. The middle while bar are not LED lights but rather regular bulbs, so they draw a lot more current than the LEDs do. These are the lights I wanted to use as my DRLs and when I hooked my modules to them, the current draw from these non LED lights actually burned out the sensitive current sensing circuitry in the DRL Module. The first one burned out so that the lights were receiving power all the time - car on, car off, key out, doors locked - all the time. The second one burned out so that the lights never received any voltage from the DRL module.
Here's how I got around that issue so I could use the middle horizontal light bar as the DRLs - I used an SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) relay which is triggered by the current sensing DRL module outputs, but then draws the current to power these directly from the battery, instead of running it through the DRL Module. The SPDT Relay is really common in automotive applications and used for such things as turning on high-power lights, stereo amplifiers, winches, etc.
This method works great and now the thin horizontal, non-LED lights come on when the car is running, but are off otherwise, and they turn off 25-30 seconds after shutting off the car and removing the key. With the headlight switch set in "Home" both the horizontal and the lower bright, white LEDs stay on for 30 seconds and then both turn off, both also illuminate when unlocking the car. All other light functions work as factory - the bright white lower LEDs now come on when the headlight switch is pulled out 1 click for the driving lights, and as part of the "Home" function. The upper yellow LED lights are simply the turn signals. The white horizontal light bar is on as the DRLs only when the car is running, and as the front parking lights when the headlight switch is in that position, even with the car off.
The way I wired this was:
Here's a video I've posted to YouTube that talks about how and why I did it this way. It also includes a couple descriptive photos at the end - 1 shows the DRL Module and SPDT relay mounting location, and 2 shows the front trunk with the plastic trim panels reinstalled, making the installation unnoticeable vs an OEM 997 without this functionality.
http://youtu.be/v-MYF9UkKcE (there's a slight audio glitch in the movie near the beginning for some reason, but I think you'll still get the gist. Also, I mis-spoke in the video and it was shot with the headlight switch in the OFF position, not the HOME position. In the HOME position, both the middle horizontal lights are one PLUS the bottom row of bright white LEDs and both turn off after 30 seconds - sorry about that)
I apologize for the long post, but I thought it might help anyone else who wanted to hook these lights up the same way as I did, without burning out their current sensing DRL module and trying to figure out why that happened. Also, doing it this way I'm able to have my car hooked up to a Battery Tender Plus Smart Charger without any charging or lighting issues as I've seen other people have had just using the Smart DRL module without the diode update (I'm not using the diode update).
Let me know if I can help with any specific questions.
Pete
The current sensing module has leads that connect to the battery and sense the voltage shift between when the car is running (14v into it) or not running (12v into it) and powers the outputs only when the car is running, therefore, turning on the DRL lights only when the car is running. It works by doing nothing when it receives 12v (car off), but when it receives 14v when the car is running, it sends 12v out the L & R + and - leads to power the DRLs. This way you can have only the front lights that you want on as the DRLs, which in my case was the middle horizontal bar. I wanted to use the curent sensing DRL module so that the only place I had to tie into the factory Porsche wiring was right behind the new LED DRL lights for the parking light circuit.
One note: If the DRL option is enabled in the PCM of the car (PIWIS or Durametric programming), then the headlights are on also, which I didn't want, so the factory DRL option has to be disabled / turned off to do it my way.
So through trial and error, and burning out two of the Current Sensing DRL modules, what I discovered with the help of the seller I purchased the Current Sensing DRL module from, is that only the upper row of yellow LEDs and the lower row of white LEDs are actually LED lights. The middle while bar are not LED lights but rather regular bulbs, so they draw a lot more current than the LEDs do. These are the lights I wanted to use as my DRLs and when I hooked my modules to them, the current draw from these non LED lights actually burned out the sensitive current sensing circuitry in the DRL Module. The first one burned out so that the lights were receiving power all the time - car on, car off, key out, doors locked - all the time. The second one burned out so that the lights never received any voltage from the DRL module.
Here's how I got around that issue so I could use the middle horizontal light bar as the DRLs - I used an SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) relay which is triggered by the current sensing DRL module outputs, but then draws the current to power these directly from the battery, instead of running it through the DRL Module. The SPDT Relay is really common in automotive applications and used for such things as turning on high-power lights, stereo amplifiers, winches, etc.
This method works great and now the thin horizontal, non-LED lights come on when the car is running, but are off otherwise, and they turn off 25-30 seconds after shutting off the car and removing the key. With the headlight switch set in "Home" both the horizontal and the lower bright, white LEDs stay on for 30 seconds and then both turn off, both also illuminate when unlocking the car. All other light functions work as factory - the bright white lower LEDs now come on when the headlight switch is pulled out 1 click for the driving lights, and as part of the "Home" function. The upper yellow LED lights are simply the turn signals. The white horizontal light bar is on as the DRLs only when the car is running, and as the front parking lights when the headlight switch is in that position, even with the car off.
The way I wired this was:
- I took the original + and - wires I had run from the battery and brought them down near the mounting location of the DRL module & SPDT relay. The positive wire has an inline fuse installed - The 5A that comes in the holder is too small to power these non-LED lights and will blow, but 7.5A seems to work fine, which is what I have in mine now.
- I connected any of the wires that needed a constant 12v Power source to this POS (+) battery wire using a 3-way gel-filled connector, which was the lead wire from the battery, 1 wire from the DRL module and 1 wire from the SPDT Relay.
- I connected all the ground wires to this NEG (-) wire directly from the battery through a common ground loop, which included 1) 1 negative wire from the DRL Module, 2) 1 negative wire from the SPDT Relay, 3&4) both negative wires from the Left & Right DRL Module Outputs, 5&6) both - wires from the parking light circuit that I connected to right behind the LED lights by scotch-locking onto them.
- I connected the two POS+ red wires from the DRL Modules Outputs to the trigger input wire of the SPDT Relay. When the DRL module senses 14v and sends the 12v signal out on these leads, it picks the SPDT relay to "turn it on"
- I connected the two POS + wires that I spliced into my parking light circuit right behind the new LED lights to the + output wire from the SPDT relay. When the SPDT Relay gets tripped by the DRL module toggling, it sends 12v to the front parking light wires, illuminating the horizontal light bars, but draws the amperage for these directly from the battery instead of through the DRL module, which would burn it out.
Here's a video I've posted to YouTube that talks about how and why I did it this way. It also includes a couple descriptive photos at the end - 1 shows the DRL Module and SPDT relay mounting location, and 2 shows the front trunk with the plastic trim panels reinstalled, making the installation unnoticeable vs an OEM 997 without this functionality.
http://youtu.be/v-MYF9UkKcE (there's a slight audio glitch in the movie near the beginning for some reason, but I think you'll still get the gist. Also, I mis-spoke in the video and it was shot with the headlight switch in the OFF position, not the HOME position. In the HOME position, both the middle horizontal lights are one PLUS the bottom row of bright white LEDs and both turn off after 30 seconds - sorry about that)
I apologize for the long post, but I thought it might help anyone else who wanted to hook these lights up the same way as I did, without burning out their current sensing DRL module and trying to figure out why that happened. Also, doing it this way I'm able to have my car hooked up to a Battery Tender Plus Smart Charger without any charging or lighting issues as I've seen other people have had just using the Smart DRL module without the diode update (I'm not using the diode update).
Let me know if I can help with any specific questions.
Pete
11-19-2012, 05:06 AM
#109
Rennlist Member
Guys, I am adding to this thread as I spent a lot of time wiring in these front LED DRL lights to work differently than the standard setup, which I think is pretty cool. This was done on my 2005 997.1 C2S so I don't know how much crosses over to the 997.2 cars. I wanted to use the Yellow LEDs as the Turn Signals (obvious), the lower bright LEDs as the Driving/Fog Lights, and only the center horizontal bar as the DRL with the Current Sensing Module activating them.
Pete
Pete
Thanks for the post... so just that I am clear, how do each setup differ in using LEDs vs. center horizontal bar?
1. Standard --> LED: DRL, Center: Fog
2. Yours --> Center: DRL, LED: Fog?
Now, my car (non-LED) actually uses the front headlights as DRL. So, I am not even sure if I got Rotec how would it light up the fronts for DRL instead of the headlights. Did you have to do anything specific with Durametric?
Thanks
11-19-2012, 10:23 AM
#110
Rennlist Member
Guys, I am adding to this thread as I spent a lot of time wiring in these front LED DRL lights to work differently than the standard setup, which I think is pretty cool. This was done on my 2005 997.1 C2S so I don't know how much crosses over to the 997.2 cars. I wanted to use the Yellow LEDs as the Turn Signals (obvious), the lower bright LEDs as the Driving/Fog Lights, and only the center horizontal bar as the DRL with the Current Sensing Module activating them....
Pete
Pete
First, huge Thank you for sharing this and posting your work as this is EXACTLY the configuration I have been wanted to do but haven't had tim to do R&D...
Was wonder whom you purchased the LED DRLs lights from & DRL Module (can you please specify DRL module part number so I know which to get?) I ask because most were pay higher cost from ROTEC due to concern for support & quality, yet some here seem to have no been having good luck with ROTEC and I have a hard time justifying additional expense when the units all come from a a single manufacture..
Thanks,
David
11-19-2012, 11:12 AM
#111
Burning Brakes
Pete, thanks for posting. Watched the video and gave it a thumbs up (though I don't know if it worked as I've never done that before). It's great to see more 997 guys doing DIY's and sharing them. If you're so inclined, it would be great to post in one of the Durametric threads here with the coding. I haven't gone into coding yet because I'm afraid of screwing something up. If you could detail exactly what you did in coding using 'snips' of the the screen so we could actually see step-by-step what to do that would be very helpful. I'm happy with the factory DRL setup (though I might play with it in the future given your post), but I do want to make the side markers flash with the turn signals.
11-19-2012, 11:34 AM
#112
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
More LED DRL Info
David, I purchased my lights off of eBay from vd-cool (shipped out of Taiwan I believe) - like you say, they all look the same to me. I purchased the current sensing DRL module from Nello at Maxspeed Motorsports and he was very helpful in working with me on getting these to work the way I wanted them to - he's the one that told me the center bar in the lights are not actually LEDs which we then decided is what was damaging the DRL modules by drawing too much current from the lights. This is why I decided to hook them up using the SPDT relay so the DRL module would only provide the trigger to turn the lights on and the amperage draw from them would go from the battery through the relay to the lights, instead of through the DRL module. Based on how helpful he was, that's who I would purchase from if I had to do it again. Maybe he'll give you a deal on both the lights and DRL module together - PM me and I will provide his e-mail address.
alexb76 - the normal way these newer style lights are hooked up is to use the bright white lower LED section as the DRLs, however, those make very good driving / fog lights and the center horizontal portion is not very bright, so it makes a better always-on DRL (in my opinion). You can hook them up any way you like, but the current sensing DRL modules are only designed to handle a very low amperage pass through, like that from LEDs. If you try to hook the outputs of the DRL module to a non LED light, the higher amperage passing through the DRL module will fry it and it will either fail so the lights never turn off - I mean never - or never turn on. The only reason to add the extra SPDT relay is if you want to use the non-LED horizontal bar as the DRL with a DRL current sensing module. If you're just tying into the factory car wiring, you can connect any lights in the front to the appropriate wires. A third option would be to use the SPDT relay with the DRL module by finding a OEM wire that only has voltage when the key is on and hooking the Relay's trigger wire to that wire.
My setup uses:
I'm not 100% sure on how most others connect these in the standard configuration other than the bottom row of bright white LEDs are used as the DRLs.
For any of these custom DRL configurations, the option in the car control module has to have the DRL option turned OFF. Turning on the factory DRL option uses the primary headlights as the DRL. This can be changed by your dealer with their PIWIS system or via Durametric using a Pro Cable and the Coding optiions (I think it's either under the "Front" section or "Alarm" function but am not 100% sure).
Hope that helps.
alexb76 - the normal way these newer style lights are hooked up is to use the bright white lower LED section as the DRLs, however, those make very good driving / fog lights and the center horizontal portion is not very bright, so it makes a better always-on DRL (in my opinion). You can hook them up any way you like, but the current sensing DRL modules are only designed to handle a very low amperage pass through, like that from LEDs. If you try to hook the outputs of the DRL module to a non LED light, the higher amperage passing through the DRL module will fry it and it will either fail so the lights never turn off - I mean never - or never turn on. The only reason to add the extra SPDT relay is if you want to use the non-LED horizontal bar as the DRL with a DRL current sensing module. If you're just tying into the factory car wiring, you can connect any lights in the front to the appropriate wires. A third option would be to use the SPDT relay with the DRL module by finding a OEM wire that only has voltage when the key is on and hooking the Relay's trigger wire to that wire.
My setup uses:
- center bar as Parking Lights and as Daytime Running Lights (signal for DRL comes from the DRL Current Sensing Module when the car is started and the current changes from 12v-14v). The DRL module also powers the horizontal bar for about 30 seconds when turning off the car.
- Bottom row of bright white LEDs as the driving/fog lights which are activated by pulling out the headlight control **** 1 click. They are also activated as part of the "Home" light position function - both the horizontal bar and the bottom row of LEDs stay on when turning off the car and when unlocking it.
- Amber LEDs are used only for the turn signals.
I'm not 100% sure on how most others connect these in the standard configuration other than the bottom row of bright white LEDs are used as the DRLs.
For any of these custom DRL configurations, the option in the car control module has to have the DRL option turned OFF. Turning on the factory DRL option uses the primary headlights as the DRL. This can be changed by your dealer with their PIWIS system or via Durametric using a Pro Cable and the Coding optiions (I think it's either under the "Front" section or "Alarm" function but am not 100% sure).
Hope that helps.
11-19-2012, 11:41 AM
#113
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Durametric Coding
Doug, thanks - yes, I should do that. I have Jing on my coding PC so I can capture screenshots. That change was a very easy one. When I get some time, I'll fire up the Porsche PC and put that together, posting it into the coding section.
Although a little bit of the front light wraps around the side of the car, if driving in traffic, having the side marker flash for lane changes provides just that little bit of extra notification to the other drivers to prevent the simultaneous lane change into the same lane.
With the latest version of the Durametric Software, the connection procedure is strange to get the Coding options to display and work. One way you can get them to display, but you then get a message when you click on them about having a Version 1 Cable. The other way, you can get the Coding option to work and open the Coding disclaimer and options pages. When I talked to them about this, they said they would correct that in their next release, so I'll post how I had to connect things to get it to work also.
Although a little bit of the front light wraps around the side of the car, if driving in traffic, having the side marker flash for lane changes provides just that little bit of extra notification to the other drivers to prevent the simultaneous lane change into the same lane.
With the latest version of the Durametric Software, the connection procedure is strange to get the Coding options to display and work. One way you can get them to display, but you then get a message when you click on them about having a Version 1 Cable. The other way, you can get the Coding option to work and open the Coding disclaimer and options pages. When I talked to them about this, they said they would correct that in their next release, so I'll post how I had to connect things to get it to work also.
11-19-2012, 01:25 PM
#114
Rennlist Member
alexb76 - the normal way these newer style lights are hooked up is to use the bright white lower LED section as the DRLs, however, those make very good driving / fog lights and the center horizontal portion is not very bright, so it makes a better always-on DRL (in my opinion). You can hook them up any way you like, but the current sensing DRL modules are only designed to handle a very low amperage pass through, like that from LEDs. If you try to hook the outputs of the DRL module to a non LED light, the higher amperage passing through the DRL module will fry it and it will either fail so the lights never turn off - I mean never - or never turn on. The only reason to add the extra SPDT relay is if you want to use the non-LED horizontal bar as the DRL with a DRL current sensing module. If you're just tying into the factory car wiring, you can connect any lights in the front to the appropriate wires. A third option would be to use the SPDT relay with the DRL module by finding a OEM wire that only has voltage when the key is on and hooking the Relay's trigger wire to that wire.
My setup uses:
I'm not 100% sure on how most others connect these in the standard configuration other than the bottom row of bright white LEDs are used as the DRLs.
For any of these custom DRL configurations, the option in the car control module has to have the DRL option turned OFF. Turning on the factory DRL option uses the primary headlights as the DRL. This can be changed by your dealer with their PIWIS system or via Durametric using a Pro Cable and the Coding optiions (I think it's either under the "Front" section or "Alarm" function but am not 100% sure).
Hope that helps.
My setup uses:
- center bar as Parking Lights and as Daytime Running Lights (signal for DRL comes from the DRL Current Sensing Module when the car is started and the current changes from 12v-14v). The DRL module also powers the horizontal bar for about 30 seconds when turning off the car.
- Bottom row of bright white LEDs as the driving/fog lights which are activated by pulling out the headlight control **** 1 click. They are also activated as part of the "Home" light position function - both the horizontal bar and the bottom row of LEDs stay on when turning off the car and when unlocking it.
- Amber LEDs are used only for the turn signals.
I'm not 100% sure on how most others connect these in the standard configuration other than the bottom row of bright white LEDs are used as the DRLs.
For any of these custom DRL configurations, the option in the car control module has to have the DRL option turned OFF. Turning on the factory DRL option uses the primary headlights as the DRL. This can be changed by your dealer with their PIWIS system or via Durametric using a Pro Cable and the Coding optiions (I think it's either under the "Front" section or "Alarm" function but am not 100% sure).
Hope that helps.
Thanks
11-19-2012, 01:38 PM
#115
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
In my posts, when make reference to the DRL Module it's to the aftermarket current-sensing DRL module that senses the voltage change at the battery from 12v (car off) to 14v (car on and battery being charged by the alternator) and then powers the Left and Right Outputs from this module.
It's the factory DRL Option that needs to be disabled by PIWIS or Durametric as it used the headlights as the DRLs.
Hope that helps to clarify.
It's the factory DRL Option that needs to be disabled by PIWIS or Durametric as it used the headlights as the DRLs.
Hope that helps to clarify.
11-25-2012, 10:52 PM
#117
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Front LED DRL Update
Wanted to post an update since I had mentioned that in the Durametric "Front" module there's an option to select LED Turn Signals. I tried that today, but unfortunately, it does not make the Light Out warning message go away - it actually makes it worse, by making the turn signal lights flash twice as fast (like they do when a bulb is out) and the warning message comes up every time you use the turn signals instead of just once, so I had to go back in and undo the front LED light selection Coding change.
I am still getting a warning for both my front lights even after clearing the existing error codes from my bumper project - I don't get them every time, but probably 3 out of 5, which is too often for me. My next step is going to be to add inline Load Resistors for LED lights which are easy to find on eBay for very little money. I put a set of these on my wife's Infiniti when changing her rear turn signal bulbs to LEDs and never had a problem and it's been about 8 years, so that's my plan. I'm going to add them first to the turn signal wires for the amber LEDs, and if that doesn't solve the warning notification, then to the driving light wires for the bottom white Fog/Driving light LEDs.
I'll let you know the result, but the front middle horizontal portion of the lights are still working flawlessly as the DRLs with my current sensing module wired through an SPDT relay. I've also found out that these are probably fiber-optic sections of the lights and am awaiting some information on how to change the light source for these, should they ever burn out.
I am still getting a warning for both my front lights even after clearing the existing error codes from my bumper project - I don't get them every time, but probably 3 out of 5, which is too often for me. My next step is going to be to add inline Load Resistors for LED lights which are easy to find on eBay for very little money. I put a set of these on my wife's Infiniti when changing her rear turn signal bulbs to LEDs and never had a problem and it's been about 8 years, so that's my plan. I'm going to add them first to the turn signal wires for the amber LEDs, and if that doesn't solve the warning notification, then to the driving light wires for the bottom white Fog/Driving light LEDs.
I'll let you know the result, but the front middle horizontal portion of the lights are still working flawlessly as the DRLs with my current sensing module wired through an SPDT relay. I've also found out that these are probably fiber-optic sections of the lights and am awaiting some information on how to change the light source for these, should they ever burn out.
12-02-2012, 12:31 PM
#118
Rennlist Member
Wanted to post an update since I had mentioned that in the Durametric "Front" module there's an option to select LED Turn Signals. I tried that today, but unfortunately, it does not make the Light Out warning message go away - it actually makes it worse, by making the turn signal lights flash twice as fast (like they do when a bulb is out) and the warning message comes up every time you use the turn signals instead of just once, so I had to go back in and undo the front LED light selection Coding change.
I am still getting a warning for both my front lights even after clearing the existing error codes from my bumper project - I don't get them every time, but probably 3 out of 5, which is too often for me. My next step is going to be to add inline Load Resistors for LED lights which are easy to find on eBay for very little money. I put a set of these on my wife's Infiniti when changing her rear turn signal bulbs to LEDs and never had a problem and it's been about 8 years, so that's my plan. I'm going to add them first to the turn signal wires for the amber LEDs, and if that doesn't solve the warning notification, then to the driving light wires for the bottom white Fog/Driving light LEDs.
I am still getting a warning for both my front lights even after clearing the existing error codes from my bumper project - I don't get them every time, but probably 3 out of 5, which is too often for me. My next step is going to be to add inline Load Resistors for LED lights which are easy to find on eBay for very little money. I put a set of these on my wife's Infiniti when changing her rear turn signal bulbs to LEDs and never had a problem and it's been about 8 years, so that's my plan. I'm going to add them first to the turn signal wires for the amber LEDs, and if that doesn't solve the warning notification, then to the driving light wires for the bottom white Fog/Driving light LEDs.
Based on comments (and resolution) others have posted ( see https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...eshooting.html ) my guess would be it's the LED DRL's and not the turn signals. (Quick test could be to simply put back OEM turn signal bulbs and see if error code remain or not. )
I'll let you know the result, but the front middle horizontal portion of the lights are still working flawlessly as the DRLs with my current sensing module wired through an SPDT relay. I've also found out that these are probably fiber-optic sections of the lights and am awaiting some information on how to change the light source for these, should they ever burn out.
Also, what's you thoughts on Aluminum VS. Ceramic LED Load Resistors?
( http://www.putco.com/products.cfm?ac...c-b9c2f6222048 )
Again, thank you for posting and sharing this information with the group, as it is greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
David
12-03-2012, 01:03 AM
#119
Rennlist Member
The way I wired this was:[LIST][*]I took the original + and - wires I had run from the battery and brought them down near the mounting location of the DRL module & SPDT relay. The positive wire has an inline fuse installed - The 5A that comes in the holder is too small to power these non-LED lights and will blow, but 7.5A seems to work fine, which is what I have in mine now.
[*] I connected any of the wires that needed a constant 12v Power source to this POS (+) battery wire using a 3-way gel-filled connector, which was the lead wire from the battery, 1 wire from the DRL module and 1 wire from the SPDT Relay.
[*] I connected all the ground wires to this NEG (-) wire directly from the battery through a common ground loop, which included 1) 1 negative wire from the DRL Module, 2) 1 negative wire from the SPDT Relay, 3&4) both negative wires from the Left & Right DRL Module Outputs, 5&6) both - wires from the parking light circuit that I connected to right behind the LED lights by scotch-locking onto them.
[*] I connected the two POS+ red wires from the DRL Modules Outputs to the trigger input wire of the SPDT Relay. When the DRL module senses 14v and sends the 12v signal out on these leads, it picks the SPDT relay to "turn it on"
[*] I connected the two POS + wires that I spliced into my parking light circuit right behind the new LED lights to the + output wire from the SPDT relay. When the SPDT Relay gets tripped by the DRL module toggling, it sends 12v to the front parking light wires, illuminating the horizontal light bars, but draws the amperage for these directly from the battery instead of through the DRL module, which would burn it out.
[*] I connected any of the wires that needed a constant 12v Power source to this POS (+) battery wire using a 3-way gel-filled connector, which was the lead wire from the battery, 1 wire from the DRL module and 1 wire from the SPDT Relay.
[*] I connected all the ground wires to this NEG (-) wire directly from the battery through a common ground loop, which included 1) 1 negative wire from the DRL Module, 2) 1 negative wire from the SPDT Relay, 3&4) both negative wires from the Left & Right DRL Module Outputs, 5&6) both - wires from the parking light circuit that I connected to right behind the LED lights by scotch-locking onto them.
[*] I connected the two POS+ red wires from the DRL Modules Outputs to the trigger input wire of the SPDT Relay. When the DRL module senses 14v and sends the 12v signal out on these leads, it picks the SPDT relay to "turn it on"
[*] I connected the two POS + wires that I spliced into my parking light circuit right behind the new LED lights to the + output wire from the SPDT relay. When the SPDT Relay gets tripped by the DRL module toggling, it sends 12v to the front parking light wires, illuminating the horizontal light bars, but draws the amperage for these directly from the battery instead of through the DRL module, which would burn it out.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance for all your assistance.
-David
12-03-2012, 01:47 AM
#120
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
12/2 Update
Today I actually connected Load Resistors to the wiring for the horizontal light bars I'm using as the DRLs, as I believe these are the lights that are causing the warning message on the dash, since the message I get is Check Right Front Side and Check Left Front Side - I don't get a warning with "Indicator" or "Fog" or "Marker" in the message, so I think it's the lights I'm using as the Parking Light and DRL that are causing the message.
Anyway, after connecting the resistors I started the car for a few seconds and still got the error message - I also touched the resistor after the car had been running for only about 10 seconds and couldn't believe how hot it had become. Based on that quick experiment, I disconnected the resistors and personally, don't think it's a good idea to use these on lights that will be on all the time (might be OK for turn signals only used every so often) as the temperatures generated by the resistors is very high and can't be good for anything in close proximity to them. I had found a nice all metal pocket that was part of the front bumper assembly and frame to drop them into so I wouldn't have to worry about some heat, but after feeling the amount of heat after just 10 seconds, pulled them out anyway. For now, I'm going to live with the warning message since the resistors didn't solve the warning message issue anyway. It's possible that the SPDT relay setup may cause this problem - not sure. My resistors were the aluminum type and maybe the ceramic versions run a little cooler. I did notice in the Durametric coding options though there is a selection under one of the modules to Deactivate a Light Warning, but I'm not sure what this does - it might be for when you leave the headlight switch on and remove the key or maybe it turns off notifications for all the light bulb warning messages. If someone knows, please share.
For now, I'm going to live with the warning message. I did notice in the Durametric coding options though there is a selection under one of the modules for .
Responding to Musclehedz101, putting the regular bulb back into the socket is probably a worthwhile test to pinpoint which lighting circuit is causing the message. Doing just one side and leaving the other the way it is now would certainly make another data point. Regarding your question, yes, you probably could run just the positive output from the SPDT Relay and scotch-lock onto both parking light + wires and not run the grounds. When I did the initial install with the first Current Sensing DRL module (without the SPDT), I had followed the instructions that came with the current sensing DRL module and had already run both the + and - down to the parking light wires, so I figured I might as well connect all the ground wires together and tie them back to - battery terminal to prevent the possibility of any ground loops, but it may not have been necessary. After damaging two of the DRL modules though, I wasn't sure how robust these were, so I figured, better safe than sorry.
I'll try to find some time to put together a wiring diagram that graphically represents what I verbally explained in my posts.
Anyway, after connecting the resistors I started the car for a few seconds and still got the error message - I also touched the resistor after the car had been running for only about 10 seconds and couldn't believe how hot it had become. Based on that quick experiment, I disconnected the resistors and personally, don't think it's a good idea to use these on lights that will be on all the time (might be OK for turn signals only used every so often) as the temperatures generated by the resistors is very high and can't be good for anything in close proximity to them. I had found a nice all metal pocket that was part of the front bumper assembly and frame to drop them into so I wouldn't have to worry about some heat, but after feeling the amount of heat after just 10 seconds, pulled them out anyway. For now, I'm going to live with the warning message since the resistors didn't solve the warning message issue anyway. It's possible that the SPDT relay setup may cause this problem - not sure. My resistors were the aluminum type and maybe the ceramic versions run a little cooler. I did notice in the Durametric coding options though there is a selection under one of the modules to Deactivate a Light Warning, but I'm not sure what this does - it might be for when you leave the headlight switch on and remove the key or maybe it turns off notifications for all the light bulb warning messages. If someone knows, please share.
For now, I'm going to live with the warning message. I did notice in the Durametric coding options though there is a selection under one of the modules for .
Responding to Musclehedz101, putting the regular bulb back into the socket is probably a worthwhile test to pinpoint which lighting circuit is causing the message. Doing just one side and leaving the other the way it is now would certainly make another data point. Regarding your question, yes, you probably could run just the positive output from the SPDT Relay and scotch-lock onto both parking light + wires and not run the grounds. When I did the initial install with the first Current Sensing DRL module (without the SPDT), I had followed the instructions that came with the current sensing DRL module and had already run both the + and - down to the parking light wires, so I figured I might as well connect all the ground wires together and tie them back to - battery terminal to prevent the possibility of any ground loops, but it may not have been necessary. After damaging two of the DRL modules though, I wasn't sure how robust these were, so I figured, better safe than sorry.
I'll try to find some time to put together a wiring diagram that graphically represents what I verbally explained in my posts.