Edgy01

You may notice that the majority of 997 water pump issues are with the 3.8 engines--not the 3.6

My 3.8 WP died fairly early, detected by dribbling on the garage floor. Warranty replacement (because I actually drive my car).

Unless you know something is amiss with your 997 3.6 I wouldn't replace it as a part of a Preventative Maintenance plan.

boolala

Mine is a 3.6.

McCulla

Mine's a 3.6, too.

McCulla

Dan, I don't know if the comment about "driving" your car was intended for me, but my car is also a DD, about 10-12K/yr.

Captsteve123

I just replaced my water pump Saturday. 2005 997. It is the second water pump. First one at 27000 miles, second one at 48000. Used only the genuine Porsche water pump. Hope it last more that 15000 miles.

targa996

My pump lasted 12 years 65Kmiles - first noticed coolant level drop in expansion tank - then noticed small coolant leak undercar - could not detect any play on the bearing - but I guess enough was there to let water out under pressure. Replaced with Pierburg pump from Pelican (on 3.6 996). My buddies '07 boxster broke WP shaft at 90K. 3 year preventative (given cost) may be a little **** - but if you got to 10 years/60K - seems like it might be warranted if you are going to keep your car another 60K/5 years ...

Also agree with going with original factory t'stat .....

mlv_250

2007 3.6 60k miles.

Replaced WP, T-STAT, and S-BELT about 3 weeks ago as a preventive maintenance with all genuine P parts. Had the parts sitting around for about 2 years then decided to just get it done... The OEM WP looks fine with just some minor scuffs on the blades and bearings were fine. No leaks prior to maintenance. Definitely could have gone without the change for a while longer. But did noticed bearings starting to go on the pulley sitting off of the crankshaft.

Ericson38

We just purchased a 997.1 50 K mile Carrera 4, and I plan to change the water pump as preventative. This video looks pretty straight forward, but there was a question in this thread as for differences (if any significant ones) between this 996 example and a 997.1 model.

I purchased the 101 projects for your 911 (996-997.1) and in the book the engine is not even lifted up, and there is no mention of procedure differences between 997.1 and 996.

Book also states that the 210 deg full open thermostat should be changed out with a 180 degree fully open type.

Ericson38

I have read the #5 guide where it claims that the head gasket water passages have all been changed to the same size so that only one head gasket template is used for left and right banks, and it seems incredible to suggest that Porsche would so simply shoot the engine in the foot, so to speak, to save the purchaser less than $100 per car (or less).

There is a lot of discussion about a general loss of coolant flow rates in the all important cylinder areas, and the fear of scoring, piston coating scrape off, and cracking of the cylinders. Not so much focus that the greatly increased water flow into the heads brought down the head/combustion chamber temperatures. Some of this to reduce pre-ignition, allowing higher compression and more output. A cooler head will also allow the oil in the head to be much cooler on return to the oil sump. Also, cooler heads will attract heat from the cylinders they are bolted to, especially the upper areas where the flames are.

There seems to be a determination (from Porsche) that the oil temperatures needed to be reduced. The 3.8 even has an oil cooler, and all the 997.1 models holds 8 gallons of coolant, while the 3.6 holds 5.5 gallons, which itself is a lot of coolant comparatively speaking. That, coupled with 8.5 quarts of oil for 325 hp seems conservative. Now, a poor design decision would be apparent if the water took a course through the engine where it's entry and exit temperatures where closer to equal, meaning the water did not absorb unwanted heat from the engine. But I didn't see where the report analyzed this from that perspective.

Are they recommending a different head gasket design between banks on the later 3.6 and 3.8 engines, or just a lower temp thermostat ?

yashagrawal

I live in Nevada, and the oil temps have usually been < 200 F, when the car was fully warmed up. In the last few days, with the heat wave, day ambient temps in the 110 F range, I am noticing that the oil temp guage is showing about 210 F on a routine basis. car is otherwise working fine.

Is this increase likely due to the increased ambient temp ?...or is this a Water Pump issue. I have a 2009 C4S with 27000 miles.

Lance-AR

An increase in the ambient air temperature will bring an increase in oil temperatures. I believe getting the oil above the water boiling point will help purify the oil.

gpjli2

210 is surprisingly LOW even for routine driving when temps are that high. I normally see 220-225 running normal/spirited at anything over 75-80F. Listen for unusual noises and look for leaks, check for play in the pulley that would suggest bearings are worn. Drive your car harder

Kaychub

So I've read every post here with keen interest, I wanted to know as much as possible before jumping in, I just finished a 4+ hour job with assistance changing my water pump, thermostat and housing and 2 idler pulleys and the tensioner pulley (which was faulty so had to use the old one).

This is by no means an easy job, due to the cramped space you have to work with, I reckon it could have been done in less than 3 hours, but the old water pump was completely smashed so the impeller hooked the pump from sliding out, and so did the pulley we had to smash the impeller to get it out to free up the pump




Chucked in a gallon of distilled water and a gallon of coolant and we're on the go again!

Total spend $427 on parts.

USMC_DS1

Congrats on the DIY! Was that the original WP? How many miles on the car and more importantly the WP?

FWIW, I tackled this same DIY during the Thanksgiving holiday break. Car had 75K+ miles and 8 yrs on the clock. Did a pre-emptive WP and low temp t-stat R&R.

Kaychub

Yes that's the original WP, this car has a strange history, very low mileage at less than 9k because it's a salvage and has spent most of the last 9 years parked and abused, this is the first time the WP is being changed since the car was made.