jason74

In my oil filler neck is this white thick, stuff. Any ideas why or if this should be of concern? I first noticed it during oil change at 15k (37k total on car) mile mark last winter. It has been additional 5k miles since that change now. 07 C2 (w CPO if of concern). Now has about 43k miles total.

NA011

Water & oil = Gunk

Drive longer to burn out the moisture in the oil. You have to have the oil at the normal temp. for a while to get the moisture out of there. If you have been driving long & hard than check to make sure you don't have a water leak.

SteveFromMN

Change oil more often. Short trips in cold weather is not letting oil get up to temp. It is easier and CHEAPER to change oil instead of an engine! I would never go longer than 5000 miles. The additives in the oil can only do so much.

USMC_DS1

I work from a home office and fly every other week for work. Only get to drive the Porsche when I'm not traveling on business so put about 5k miles a year on it. I try to get in an occasional long 100+ miles drive in every month to see our son at college. So I've been changing my oil n filter every 3k miles or 4 months whichever comes 1st. Seems to be working well so far. No signs of gunk/debris.

jason74

I use mine on daily 90 mile round trip commute. It frequently gets to operating range. About 2000 miles per month. Few short hops in this one!

Marine Blue

I would have the oil changed and send the oil out for an oil analysis to isolate what type of moisture might be causing this.

USMC_DS1

You may have a water leak somewhere then. Get it check out.

Edgy01

That's very typical of an engine that routinely never gets up to temperature enough. In short, you're not driving it on long enough trips. Also, if you're in the rust belt, and you put it into hibernation for the winter, toss a fuel stabilizer into the gas tank and then tape up your exhaust openings. Engines love to suck into themselves any water vapor that happens to be passing your way in the garage. During the winter, there is much water vapor out there.

jason74

Edgy, it does get up to temp every day. 2000 miles per month, 45 miles each way on commute. Was driven all winter.

I guess I have no reason not to show it to dealer.

Edgy01

When you say it's getting up to temp--water temperature, or the oil temp? What is your typical oil temperature when you're driving it around a lot? The issue is whether you're maintaining that enough to burn out all that moisture that is obviously accumulating in the oil. I've seen this for decades on 911s--both air cooled and water boxers, and the answer is always the same--it's never getting hot enough.

USMC_DS1

or relocate to AZ, FL, or TX.

Macster

Part of the problem is the operating temperature range of the engine varies somewhat depending upon climatic conditions and the type of driving.

The best type of driving that heats the engine up real good, gets the oil nice and hot, is not necessarily the type of driving you do.

Get in the car with the engine cold, start the engine and drive it moderately for even 100 miles with no stops and the oil temp probably won't break 200F. I've seen my Boxster's coolant temp stay below 200F under similar conditions.

Also, in the summer or winter if the A/C is on the fans run all the time and this works to keep coolant temperatures down.

I drive on average around 2K miles per month (60 mile round trip mostly highway work commute) and change the oil/filter every 5K miles. And I live in a milder climate area and have to use the A/C seldom in the milder months.

The only time I can be sure the coolant is plenty hot and the oil is as hot as it can get is when I hear/feel the radiator fans come on. I know then the coolant is at 212F and the oil is at least that hot. Thus the water is being boiled away.

A secondary problem is that even though the water is heated to boiling temperature and turns into vapor the oil filler tube represents a cool place and this will cause the water vapor to condense back into liquid water and of course either form gunk as it condenses with oil vapor droplets or drain back into the engine.

Sincerely,

Macster.

jason74

Gotcha on the temps. The oil temp routinely is over 200 on the gauge. The condesation makes sense. I've not looked at it while hot. Will do so this evening.

Macster

Neither of my cars has a temp gage that displays coolant or oil temp in digital form.

I rely upon an OBD2 code reader/data viewer by which I can view coolant temp (oil temp is not an standard OBD2 parameter ID, though in some cars this is available from an extended parameter ID) in real time and I know the position of the coolant temp gage needle is not always a reliable indicator of the actual engine coolant temperature.

I note that 200F oil temp is not hot enough to boil water a sea level. Now the engine is fitted with an AOS which has among its other functions that of reducing pressure in the crankcase, the idea being to lower the boiling point of water in the oil.

However, as we have observed the AOS doesn't work very well at its other function (removing oil vapor) and I doubt it is able to keep the pressure low enough long enough to give the water a sufficient amount of time to boil away and for the AOS to pass this water vapor out to the intake.

As a result these engines tend to collect/build up water over time in their oil even though the usage at least on the surface suggests they shouldn't.

Sincerely,

Macster.

gpjli2

You should not be seeing this in a car driven this frequently and on 40+ mile trips. I put 5-6K a year and do several 25 minute runs a week and the inside of the filler is clear. The motor will run at 210-220 oil temp under normal to spirited driving conditions which is sufficient to avoid condensation. I would want to rule out cylinder wall, block or head gasket problems on this car if it were mine.