sbpsu354

..and now I want a 964

malexgcab

How does one do PPI if the potential car is out of state? The car is taken by someone from dealer to an Indy shop? Isn't PIWIS only way to do PPI? If so, then PPI is limited to be done at a different Porsche dealership.

Do dealers agree to have their car PPI'd at a different location?

USMC_DS1

How does one do PPI if the potential car is out of state?
- Ask the forum for a recommendation of a reputable Indy near the dealership.

The car is taken by someone from dealer to an Indy shop?
- the Indy will pick up the car or the dealer will drop it off at the Indy shop... but every p-dealer is different in how they want to arrange this.

Isn't PIWIS only way to do PPI?
- instead of the PIWIS an Indy could use a Durametric tool to check for error codes and over revs. Note that a PIWIS or DM tool represents an important but small part of the total PPI. For example, a good PPI includes use of a paint meter to check for respray, mechanical inspections of the car, a test drive, and functional check of all controls. There's much more of course... and much of it cannot be addressed by the PIWIS alone. My Indy, for example, found a leaking RMS and a broken tailpipe. None of which the PIWIS would have uncovered w/o the trained eyes and ears of a qualified mech.

malexgcab

^^^ thanks.

sy308

Obviously, the dealer wanted the F430 pretty badly and the buyer knew nothing about Porsche. Seriously, why would anyone want to trade a 430 for a P-Car? I guess if I had that kind of money to spend on a car, I would have both.

perfectlap

make sure PPI includes leakdown test.

neanicu

Some people have commented about doing a leak down during the PPI and this video is not showing that procedure. It could be due to a couple of reasons :
-short video with basic information and not showing the whole time consuming process or
-a leak down is not required in this case...let me explain why : for those interested,a leak down test is meant to show the pressure loss between cylinders. Using a good tool,you can get very accurate readings down to 1%. As far as I know a pressure loss between 5-10% is considered normal,especially on a worn engine. What you're most interested is not having a big difference between cylinders as that could explain a problem on that particular cylinder.(valves,piston rings etc)
But if you do a compression test(you can do a dry and wet compression test) and get the numbers seen in this video,then a leak down is not required anymore IMHO. That's one healthy engine! Without having hard data,like a service manual for that particular 964,I'd guess that engine was at 250 PSI brand new. You couldn't be happier with 210 PSI across the board at that point.

perfectlap

my understanding is that you could get a pass on the compression test and a fail on the leak down.
The results of the leak down can lead one expert to rule that engine is 'marginal', meaning numbers too close to double digits and hinting of a problem in early stages.
And experienced engine mechanics know how to read the leak down test since compromised engines typically follow a familiar pattern not easily determined by a shop unfamiliar with rebuilds.

neanicu

I can definitely agree that the leak down is a more accurate test between the two. Ideally you perform both,the leak down and compression.
The leak down test has the advantage of pinpointing where the problem is occurring. For example,pressurizing the cylinder at TDC(top dead center) on the compression stroke,when both the intake and exhaust valves are closed,you can listen for air escaping if there's a problem with the valves seat : hear air escaping thru exhaust-problem with the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder,pull a vacuum line from intake and listen for air escaping there-problem with the intake valve.
Pull the expansion tank cap and see coolant bubbling-bad head gasket.
And so on...