Advice for an Interstate Purchase and Shipping?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Advice for an Interstate Purchase and Shipping?
I found a '12 991 C2S, CPO'd, that's 1500 miles away (TX to CA), from what seems to be a reputable dealer and established seller. I completed a couple of in-depth FaceTime walk-arounds, viewed the DME and the vehicle is having outstanding campaigns and 10K service completed. Any advice from folks who have successfully - or unsuccessfully - completed an interstate purchase and shipping? Understandably I have reservations.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
Rennlist Member
The purchase risk is highest. From personal experience, there is no substitute for your eyes on the car, in-person and spend a few hours. For a Porsche, I would include time at a separate dealer or independent for the PPI. I have walked away from cars due to my pre-purchase inspection, and bought and driven cars back and had them shipped. Getting the car home was low risk.
#3
I had a great experience buying my '09 from an individual in AR and shipped it to MI via Reliable Carriers without an issue. It was a 45-day process for me to inspect, analyze, and come to trust the seller. Reliable Carriers were wonderful to deal with. The drivers were careful and courteous and went above and beyond to deliver my P-car in the harshest of conditions.
It sounds like you are doing the same things I did: plenty of photos, FaceTime walk-arounds and an independent PPI. Good luck with your purchase!
It sounds like you are doing the same things I did: plenty of photos, FaceTime walk-arounds and an independent PPI. Good luck with your purchase!
#4
interstate purchase
I just did an purchase of a car in TX. A few things:
1. Even though you can get a CPO car, understand that the condition of the body, paint, and interior is subjective. Porsche does ask for specific measurements of tire depth, brake pad thickness, etc., but their evaluation criteria for the interior and body condition is very arbitrary. I looked at CPO cars that had some significant flaws such as swirl marks, underbody scrapes (they all do), leather scratches. I would insist on having the paint depth measured. The dealer does not/can not/will not always look for paint and body damage. You must see the car.
2. TX required that I pay my state's sales tax at the time of purchase. The money was transferred, along with a fee, to a company out of state who "files" the necessary paperwork to get the car titled and plates issued/transferred. I finally got my license transfer and registration after eight weeks, several emails, faxes, and phone calls. That is a long time to go with temp plates. I still do not have the official title. What a hassle.
IMHO, use your frequent flier miles and get a one way ticket to Texas. Have the dealer pick you up at the airport. I you like the car, make the deal and drive the car back to California. You could ship it but that is just another layer of complication.
Good luck.
1. Even though you can get a CPO car, understand that the condition of the body, paint, and interior is subjective. Porsche does ask for specific measurements of tire depth, brake pad thickness, etc., but their evaluation criteria for the interior and body condition is very arbitrary. I looked at CPO cars that had some significant flaws such as swirl marks, underbody scrapes (they all do), leather scratches. I would insist on having the paint depth measured. The dealer does not/can not/will not always look for paint and body damage. You must see the car.
2. TX required that I pay my state's sales tax at the time of purchase. The money was transferred, along with a fee, to a company out of state who "files" the necessary paperwork to get the car titled and plates issued/transferred. I finally got my license transfer and registration after eight weeks, several emails, faxes, and phone calls. That is a long time to go with temp plates. I still do not have the official title. What a hassle.
IMHO, use your frequent flier miles and get a one way ticket to Texas. Have the dealer pick you up at the airport. I you like the car, make the deal and drive the car back to California. You could ship it but that is just another layer of complication.
Good luck.
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
I just did an purchase of a car in TX. A few things:
2. TX required that I pay my state's sales tax at the time of purchase. The money was transferred, along with a fee, to a company out of state who "files" the necessary paperwork to get the car titled and plates issued/transferred. I finally got my license transfer and registration after eight weeks, several emails, faxes, and phone calls. That is a long time to go with temp plates. I still do not have the official title. What a hassle.
2. TX required that I pay my state's sales tax at the time of purchase. The money was transferred, along with a fee, to a company out of state who "files" the necessary paperwork to get the car titled and plates issued/transferred. I finally got my license transfer and registration after eight weeks, several emails, faxes, and phone calls. That is a long time to go with temp plates. I still do not have the official title. What a hassle.
Thanks for the heads-up!
#7
Rennlist Member
I bought my current car from a Florida private seller. Cash deal of course, but here is what I wanted to know:
1. Proof that the seller owned the car without liens
2. Proof that the seller was in possession of and could legally transfer the title to me
3. Inspection. In my case I paid for a PPI. Seller delivered the car, along with all records to the independent shop for the inspection.
4. Wanted to get comfortable with the idea of seller having all my money before I had the car. (I did have the original title in my name in my hands before my transport picked up the car.)
#4 is no small banana, but in this case my seller provided banking references, and was established enough in his community that I was able to know a bunch about him (internet searches) before consummating the deal. I knew where he lived, that he owned his own home, where he worked, etc. Pulling the trigger on the wire was fairly easy when the time came. It just required a lot of due diligence.
You are responsible for the purchase. If somebody screws you, it's your fault, not theirs. I could have gotten screwed as a result of not seeing the car in person before buying it, but it would have been my fault. In my case I was able to do some solid homework on both the car and the seller.
That's my experience.
PS-I'm a quick judge of people. My seller did what he said he would do 100% of the time with me. Had that not been the case, I probably would not have proceeded. He was sincere, answered my questions, gave me lots of his time. I never once thought he could be shady. That's a lot in my book.
On the other hand, I recently bought and exhaust from a seller out of state whose tactics were shady as hell from the beginning. I finally told him I wanted the exhaust, but if I was going to pay him for it he would have to ship it to me first, after which I would inspect, and THEN send payment. He said NO WAY. Called me back the next day and capitulated. Turns out the exhaust was just as advertised, but the seller was still shady as hell. Worked out for both of us. Don't underestimate your first impressions of somebody's character, EVEN if you are in love with what they are selling.
1. Proof that the seller owned the car without liens
2. Proof that the seller was in possession of and could legally transfer the title to me
3. Inspection. In my case I paid for a PPI. Seller delivered the car, along with all records to the independent shop for the inspection.
4. Wanted to get comfortable with the idea of seller having all my money before I had the car. (I did have the original title in my name in my hands before my transport picked up the car.)
#4 is no small banana, but in this case my seller provided banking references, and was established enough in his community that I was able to know a bunch about him (internet searches) before consummating the deal. I knew where he lived, that he owned his own home, where he worked, etc. Pulling the trigger on the wire was fairly easy when the time came. It just required a lot of due diligence.
You are responsible for the purchase. If somebody screws you, it's your fault, not theirs. I could have gotten screwed as a result of not seeing the car in person before buying it, but it would have been my fault. In my case I was able to do some solid homework on both the car and the seller.
That's my experience.
PS-I'm a quick judge of people. My seller did what he said he would do 100% of the time with me. Had that not been the case, I probably would not have proceeded. He was sincere, answered my questions, gave me lots of his time. I never once thought he could be shady. That's a lot in my book.
On the other hand, I recently bought and exhaust from a seller out of state whose tactics were shady as hell from the beginning. I finally told him I wanted the exhaust, but if I was going to pay him for it he would have to ship it to me first, after which I would inspect, and THEN send payment. He said NO WAY. Called me back the next day and capitulated. Turns out the exhaust was just as advertised, but the seller was still shady as hell. Worked out for both of us. Don't underestimate your first impressions of somebody's character, EVEN if you are in love with what they are selling.
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#9
Pay for a third party PPI. If all looks good, fly down and see it yourself. Still looks good, close the deal and enjoy the nice drive back to CA.
I went this exact route driving from TX to MN. I tell you the drive back is one of my fondest memories!
I went this exact route driving from TX to MN. I tell you the drive back is one of my fondest memories!
#10
To Ricm
If I may ask, is the dealer in Dallas or Austin? If so, I may relieve some of your "stress" by telling you my experience with Park Place and Beasley. PM if you desire. Good luck. Doc.
#11
Let us know where the car is and see if a rennlister will go take a look at it for you.
#12
Burning Brakes
Never again. Too much stress. I did many of the things mentioned above. Lots of pics, PPI at a Porsche dealership. Get a reliable trucker yourself and don't let the dealer do it. Transferring money to the seller before you actually get the car is nerve racking.
Dealer got my check and cashed it fast. Not having the car and him having all the money..... no way I do that again. I agree with docboss. Don't ship it. Fly there, inspect the car after the PPI you have done, bring your check, get the title, don't leave without it. Drive it home no matter what. Or ship it but go stay at a hotel with the car until the trucker gets there and they fly home. No way I leave without the car and clear title in my hand. Call me paranoid. Rather be safe than sorry.
Dealer got my check and cashed it fast. Not having the car and him having all the money..... no way I do that again. I agree with docboss. Don't ship it. Fly there, inspect the car after the PPI you have done, bring your check, get the title, don't leave without it. Drive it home no matter what. Or ship it but go stay at a hotel with the car until the trucker gets there and they fly home. No way I leave without the car and clear title in my hand. Call me paranoid. Rather be safe than sorry.
#13
Instructor
Thread Starter
Never again. Too much stress. I did many of the things mentioned above. Lots of pics, PPI at a Porsche dealership. Get a reliable trucker yourself and don't let the dealer do it. Transferring money to the seller before you actually get the car is nerve racking.
Dealer got my check and cashed it fast. Not having the car and him having all the money..... no way I do that again. I agree with docboss. Don't ship it. Fly there, inspect the car after the PPI you have done, bring your check, get the title, don't leave without it. Drive it home no matter what. Or ship it but go stay at a hotel with the car until the trucker gets there and they fly home. No way I leave without the car and clear title in my hand. Call me paranoid. Rather be safe than sorry.
Dealer got my check and cashed it fast. Not having the car and him having all the money..... no way I do that again. I agree with docboss. Don't ship it. Fly there, inspect the car after the PPI you have done, bring your check, get the title, don't leave without it. Drive it home no matter what. Or ship it but go stay at a hotel with the car until the trucker gets there and they fly home. No way I leave without the car and clear title in my hand. Call me paranoid. Rather be safe than sorry.
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
#15
Burning Brakes
Authorized Porsche dealership should not be a problem except you'll pay more .....a lot more.