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I’m always persistent so immediately went under the car after posting, and tried the pipe idea for leverage. I always prefer feeling things, and that top bolt is unseen of course. I took a chance and with the swiveling connector and one of the short extensions, was able to break it loose!
I use these pipes for leverage quite a bit and sure enough it did the trick 👍
It’s an enormous relief and I was certainly paranoid that if that bolt’s head was damaged it could have been an engine out situation 😅
Here are pictures of what I used-a longer breaker bar or medium ratchet would not fit, the pipe I was able to slide in to get leverage, otherwise it’s impossible to get enough torque without the pipe as leverage-this while trying to keep the socket from slipping, maintaining it flush as best as I could.
As can be seen, the bolt where the cables attach broke clean off while loosening. I was going to do routine maintenance spraying anti-corrosion and this probably explains why my starter was clicking and not spinning.
I have a thread going back some 4 years since I cleaned all contacts and the starter worked all this time, until now 😂
Hope this helps others-
Cleaning the quick release positive cable where it attaches to the firewall. Some green oxidation present-I rolled up some 600 sandpaper to the size of a cigarette butt, cleaned it out then Deox-It to prevent corrosion. The quick release post was ok, but I did the same to keep it clean and protected-
I suggest doing this as regular maintenance, every year
@JB911 - Appreciate the pics and the additional color to the post. I have a feeling I will find the same for my starter. Mine started clicking years ago regardless of new battery or one sitting on tender. Basically rain forecast odds if she will start or click. Will have to crawl under to investigate.
Since my starter post with 13mm nut fractured off, I recommend spraying some sort of penetrant oil before removing the nut, whether replacing the starter or not. Also, the 13mm nut from the factory holds those cables with no washer-perhaps others can confirm this.
My new starter is on its way and I'll post pics of the old one soon. Keeping the contacts clean and protected kept my starter working for over 4 years, and my battery is only a few months old. Some of these starters probably had a factory defect causing the intermittent click problem. I interpret it as the solenoid engaging, but no energy going to the electric motor, so hence the situation...what seems to feed the electric motor is a flat copper braided cable as I recall. I had sprayed the entire area but lately the clicking returned but at this point it was better to just replace it.
The bolt cracked right out of the plastic housing and once I get under it and replace the starter I'll get a good look and see if corrosion inside the starter and solenoid area is evident-
Also, 964 owners have the same starter. Reading through their posts I saw how many were scratching their heads when they received the new starters. It's lighter and slightly smaller than their original ones, and they weren't sure it was right.
I recall some said to put a dab ou grease on the starter shaft- it goes into a bushing. Even much older 964s didn't bother replacing the copper bushing, which I doubt can even be seen unless your engine/transmission is out-
My dad has a 1967 912 that's been in our family since I was a child. Growing up, riding in that thing often meant tapping on the starter to get it to fire up. I distinctly remember pre-flight always started with a similar "click.....click", followed by him crawling under to tap the solenoid. Funny that almost 50 years later the GT3 in my garage links itself to the past.
I received my starter from FCP Euro, and here are the pictures-I added a lot of details to help others-
You need to use both hands, and the left are can reach in to help hold the extensions to keep the socket flush with the bolt. Also to remove the starter-putting it back in also took both hands, it is tight so be patient. To put the upper bolt on, I did it by hand, since it’s a blind operation. I could only use my torque wrench on the bottom bolt, but I’ve been doing this long enough to do it by feel on the upper one.
I noticed there’s a difference on the gear shaft on the new starter-the old one has longer teeth, but as seen on the older one, the contact area that meets the flywheel‘s teeth is 1centimeter, or 3/8” but for whatever reason the manufacturing process seems different on the newer one-
It came with a light grease but I added a dab on the tip which goes into the bushing before installing.
The broken old starter solenoid section where the post came off-not sure if it was the issue, looks like the copper was burnt where the bolt used to go. Maybe it was spot welded there and it failed(?)
I found a foreign site with a pic of the new version of the starter like mine. These are not rebuilt starters, they're new. The original OEM one I took out is also made in Hungary-and it says not to hit it with a hammer
$262 from like above is the cheapest shipped from Bosch factory.
I had an intermittent clicking problem these past two month and it would take me 1-2 mins to start the car. Didn’t bother me much till the day it wouldn't start. Battery was good but at the same time it was aging (5 years old). So went out to replace battery non AGM interstate as AGM didn’t start till later years model (2014+)plus it’s more money.
Now it fires right up no clicks. Thanks @Neb@JB911
Starter is the exact same as mention in the thread. Shaft is different but doesn’t effect the area as it’s catches the tip as seen on old starter. Starters are brand new not REMAN Brake clean on a rag then wiped the inside This job is really idiot proof with wiring cause it goes in one way.
This DIY saved my bacon too. Changed my starter earlier this year b/c the "click" starts were becoming more and more frequent. After reading this post by @Neb and updates from @JB911 , I realized this was something to do myself. I'd say it was about the same skill level as an oil change. While the starter was out, I learned it had a bad solenoid. You can rebuild them, but kits are like $60-$100 bucks and you still have to pull the starter. Instant crank now. My unit was $365 shipped from ECSTuning, which was more than other places, but I liked that the engagement gear shaft was identical to factory. Part number: 99660410702 I bench tested the factory starter by hooking it up to a 12v battery ( pos to pos, neg to neg terminals, and positive touch to trigger terminal). The solenoid was definitely the culprit.
These are the only tools needed. Also pictured in the middle are 2 bolts that mount the starter, 2 nuts for the power cables, and 4 undertray fasteners.
Comparison between stock (front) and Bosch OE unit (back). Only difference was price and polished gear shaft
11-14-2022, 01:42 AM
