ScottAles

I think it is also a matter of what one is accustom to. I've been using Bleach White for 40 years and understand what it can and cannot do. Knowing the limitations of any product can be very beneficial. Used to be called Westley's back in the day. Was actually a white-wall cleaner, but most of you ladies and gentlemen probably don't remember those! I also just noticed they call the product Bleche-Whit, Westley's sold out quite a while ago.

Metaphysician

I cannot wait to win this thing later this summer! Love the BBSs! Are you planning to keep the rear de-badged?

FLT6SPD

@Money2536 Matt,

Hopefully you do not mind me shortening up your post but it and your videos has me wanting to throw everything I own related to detailing in the garbage except the Kranzel and Mosmatic, but it includes my current detailer/coating guy.

I plan on purchasing all three packages below but makes sense to wait until raffle time.

I do have a couple question on polishers, do you think the Milwaukee 15mm and 21mm are better options than the other Flex and Rupes offerings? If you paired this with a Rupes Nano would that be sufficient? Any word on Milwaukee coming out with a 3" or smaller?

I already have several M18 and M12 fuel batteries from 2-12hd so it only makes sense for me to go with Milwaukee.

Money2536

Yeah, I like badgeless when possible.

Money2536

The raffle stuff won't be store-wide. It has to be unique things with higher margin in order to work. Giving away the $300,000 car out normal sales of product doesn't work.

Currently, the Milwaukee Dual Action battery powered polishers are the best on the market. You want 15mm Milwaukee, 3" HLR75 RUPES, and Long-Neck Nano. There is nothing on the current horizon for the Milwaukee 3." I would say it would be a least a year out at a minimum once I have a prototype in my hands. I was a part of the 5", but have received no word on them working on the 3" yet, so I don't think they are on it.

Wonderdan

I saw you were down in Amelia Island!

Money2536

I took a little time off on this car to work my new GT3 Touring paint. The Giveaway starts June 2nd, so I'm back on the RS project and journal here. I've shown this before, but I was waiting on some of the special order items to arrive from Colourlock that I needed to attempt to repair the driver's seat. I would rather order a new cover, but I likely won't have enough time to special order it. I would guess with supply chain issues, that's assuming I could even get one with the crest on it, that is would be a really long wait. So, I'm going to give improving it a whirl.


Here is what the two damaged spots looked like.





Here is what you need to do this. I didn't need the swabs, Leather Glue or Top Remover, but the rest is necessary.

Leather Brush: https://www.obsessedgarage.com/produ...cleaning-brush
Leather Shield 150mL: https://www.obsessedgarage.com/produ...leather-shield
Leather Protector 150 mL: https://www.obsessedgarage.com/produ...ther-protector
Degreaser 150mL: https://www.colourlock.com/Degreaser/29019-en-150/
Leather Fresh in F034 Black 150mL: https://www.colourlock.com/Leather-F...sh-dye-150-ml/
GLD Pen ND 40mL: https://www.colourlock.com/GLD-Solve...ml/gld-master/
Strong Cleaner 200mL: https://www.obsessedgarage.com/produ...cleanerLeather Brush
Leather Sanding Pad: https://www.obsessedgarage.com/produ...er-sanding-pad
Fluid Leather in F034 Black 7mL: https://www.colourlock.com/Fluid-Leather/11021-en-F034/
3M Precision Tape 1/4" & 1": https://www.obsessedgarage.com/produ...precision-tape
Stainless Spatula: https://www.colourlock.com/Long-Stai...-handle/11062/





First step is to clean the area.







I don't think this spot really need Fluid Leather. Fluid is like Bondo for leather surfaces. We use it to fill. This spot didn't need pre-sanding.





After using Fluid, you need a solvent to level it and take some of the shine out.





After GLD, you need to blend it and level it by sanding the area. I ended up sanding most of the of the Fluid off.





I Degreased it again and dried with heat gun.



I very likely could have gone right to Leather Fresh. This is the dye and has a little filling capability.







I'd say this area looks pretty darn close. Remember that this is under the lights that you won't see it as well in the car.



Top it off with Leather Protector since the seat is more than 3 years old.



After Leather Protector, wait for it to dry, then follow with Leather Shield.

The really tough spot is where the seat belt rubs the side bolster. This is where I really needed to fill.







I had to treat in two sections taping the stitching. The one mistake I made was that I didn't sand it as much as I should have.









I'd say it's decent. Certainly better than before. Again, I would rather replace it, but it's not an option.











I feel like with more experience, you could really get good at this and make it look darn near perfect.

Money2536

The very first thing I did was order a new cage. I get why all you bros have this overwhelming desire to match things on the interior to the calipers, but I ain't doing it. Yellow and red should always be reserved for McDonald's. I always prefer satin black when it comes to the cage. I bought the car from Titan, and it just so happens that Titan makes the cage that was in the car. Wes/Nero swapped it for me for a few bucks extra.

You need to take the seats out. The cage is two pieces that makes it pretty simple to remove.



Even with the dark tint, you can still see the goofiness of the yellow and red.















Just like every used car I've ever bought, there are always corners cut and things janked up. I guess I live by a different standard. Someone drove the front mount location home with an impact. Obviously I needed to retap the threaded insert.



New cage is in, and the interior is complete!!!

GT3dailydriver

The yellow had to go. Looks way better now. I wouldn't want any bright color like yellow or red filling up my mirror.

Metaphysician

I'd say the seat repairs look pretty good! I would want full replacements too, but it's a cheaper option to try and rule out before you go that route. The new cage looks much better. It complements the black/grayscale interior instead of a harsh contrast with the yellow. Good luck with the raffle!

Bxstr

Great work Matt. I think the leather repair is a good first step. You can always go further later on, but I think this is a good option for those that don't want to go to the extreme of replacement. In your case, I know it's being given away, so you won't be replacing.

saxonite

Looking awesome Matt!! I can't wait for this raffle to get started. I haven't gotten selected on any of your other raffles so hopefully I get picked this time hahaha.

Watching the progress on this car has been fun to watch and given me some ideas on my 997.1 X51 car. 997.2 GT3 RS's have a very soft spot for me being the first 911 I ever drove back in 2011 when I was still in college. I don't even know how many different models I've gotten to drive now from G bodied air cooled all of the way up to a couple of the 992's but I always go back to that RS. I guess you never forget your first time, lol. Anyways, good luck with the raffle and can't wait to see the final stages of this build get wrapped up.

Money2536

The Giveaway is now live! https://www.obsessedgarage.com/pages...t3-rs-giveaway

Earlier this week, I had one final piece to complete, the Dundon exhaust. I have a long history on Rennlist sharing all the chasing I've done with exhausts. When the 991.1 came out, Sharkwerks and GMG was able to use the 997 bypasses for the 991. I really disliked the valve operation and thought there had to be a way to get rid of the super heavy side mufflers. What I learned? Without valves you get drone, and you don't gain any horsepower. I ended up trying 13 different variants until I saw the original thread here on Rennlist from Charles Dundon. I got on the phone with him and spent about two hours talking about harmonic tuning and exhaust gas scavenging. I remember feeling tapped out on the project and was back to the simple Sharkwerks bypass with the valve disconnected. I decided what he was saying made a bunch of sense, so I ponied up the cash and bought one of their first produced exhausts. The rest was history for me. I've been buying their exhausts ever since.

The original 991 exhaust from Dundon was catless, but generally didn't throw codes. I dyno tested the car before and after. To my shock, I gained 55whp with the set-up on my 991 Sapphire car. The problem with catless is that everything on the rear of the car eventually turns yellow. Over the years, Dundon has continued to develop their "Street", catted version of the exhaust. The older Mezger 997 and newer 991.2/992 engines don't see the huge gains, but we still end up with a lighter, more durable, +25whp-ish exhaust with cats.

I'll have some videos up soon with how it sounds, but I'm telling you, it's perfection. No drone, crazy nasty when you get on it, and the aforementioned benefits of lighter and stronger materials. The one drawback to all the R&D is you need to pay for it, which I'm a happy to oblige. This iteration in T321 stainless is $13,490. I always choose the Loud version of the 321 center muffler. Lots of people do the crack-pipe version, but I'd recommend against it. You'll get drone, and not a whole heck of a lot of benefit other than some weight savings. They do make a Titanium center muffler as well, but I like to stick with the stainless.

https://www.dundonmotorsports.com/pr...11-997-2-gt3rs

On the bench, this thing ain't as pretty as what you'd expect for over ten g's, but I'm telling you, we aren't getting shiny pipes welded together. We are getting a true, tested, engineered exhaust built to take punishment and last a long, long time.































In an earlier post, I showed the Tig Brush were we did some playing to clean up the stock exhaust. You can really see it on the driver's side.







It didn't look anything like that before the clean up. The car had a Soul center bypass. It's a shame it didn't still have the factory Ti center muffler. That's worth a lot.





The 997 has header bolts. Dundon sends new threaded studs for their head install.



The big weight savings comes from the removal of the side mufflers.







The install is really quite simple. The beauty of Porsche engineering is that everything goes right back the way it comes of with little adjustment and almost no effort. No other car I've owned goes back together as seamlessly. Having the Hytorc tool, lift, fancy tools, and now a master craftsman on staff makes it all so much easier than it used to be back in the days of Rhino ramps and hand-me-down craftsman tools.





















Done! Took about an hour and half start to finish. I'll have a really cool install/sound video coming up in the next week or so.

vma1788

Can't wait to hear it. Much like you im obsessed with finding the perfect sound on any car. I've been through about 6 setups on my GT3s and haven't quite found the right one yet. This setup is high on my list to try. Will you be putting this car on the dyno?

Also, incredible work overall on this car.

Clifton

While pretty, that exhaust tip flange needs to be trimmed down an sculped vs. flat across the bottom. Drives my OCD crazy and I can't stop looking at it.

No flaming intended - I very much enjoy following this thread.