How much less would you pay (accident history)
#1
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How much less would you pay (accident history)
I’m searching for a 997.1 GT3 and not sure what rules of thumb might apply for diminished value from an accident? I’ve heard as much as 25% even with a clean title? If it’s that much, I wonder how you even insure your car properly to protect against that sort of loss if you get hit. It almost seems like having an accident and paying less up front could give you one less thing to worry about, as long as you don’t overpay.
I’m considering a car that had $27k of repairs from a rear quarter collision, including having the subframe mounting points pulled straight. Not sure how much that should affect the price on an otherwise clean, low mile car? I suppose this uncertainty I’m feeling is why diminished value is a real thing.
Thanks for any advice.
I’m considering a car that had $27k of repairs from a rear quarter collision, including having the subframe mounting points pulled straight. Not sure how much that should affect the price on an otherwise clean, low mile car? I suppose this uncertainty I’m feeling is why diminished value is a real thing.
Thanks for any advice.
#2
Low mileage and pristine condition cars will be more affected than high mileage cars with some blemishes.
My 997.1 gt3 fell into the latter higher mileage category when I purchased it many years ago with an accident on carfax and I got a roughly 10% discount from comparable cars.
My 997.1 gt3 fell into the latter higher mileage category when I purchased it many years ago with an accident on carfax and I got a roughly 10% discount from comparable cars.
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Robocop305 (02-12-2023)
#3
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I’d say it depends drastically… $27k is not cosmetic… although the msrp on just an unpainted bumper is $6600.
There is a significant difference between repainting/replacing a bumper and pulling a frame straight. My car has a “minor accident” carfax on the bumper and I paid about 10% less. However it had an undisclosed $8500 transmission issue that I had no recourse on which hurt the justification.
That said lots of GT3s have bumper repaints and still have clean carfax. It’s very difficult if not impossible to detect good paint jobs on plastic bits and not required for body shops to report if you just bring them the bumper.
IMO it’s all about transparency, if you have all the paperwork and detail it can have very little impact on value “assuming it’s not structural or collector mileage”. The top of any market is going to be perfection guys that don’t drive their cars, if the car is in the middle then pay less and drive more
It’s the no paperwork “what’s this patch on the underbody from” that no one likes.
There is a significant difference between repainting/replacing a bumper and pulling a frame straight. My car has a “minor accident” carfax on the bumper and I paid about 10% less. However it had an undisclosed $8500 transmission issue that I had no recourse on which hurt the justification.
That said lots of GT3s have bumper repaints and still have clean carfax. It’s very difficult if not impossible to detect good paint jobs on plastic bits and not required for body shops to report if you just bring them the bumper.
IMO it’s all about transparency, if you have all the paperwork and detail it can have very little impact on value “assuming it’s not structural or collector mileage”. The top of any market is going to be perfection guys that don’t drive their cars, if the car is in the middle then pay less and drive more
It’s the no paperwork “what’s this patch on the underbody from” that no one likes.
Last edited by Wonderdan; 02-14-2023 at 02:15 AM.
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Robocop305 (02-14-2023)
#4
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buy with confidence - they only go up!
On a serious note, 25% seems a bit aggressive. I would want a substantial discount (10%-15%) for that kind of damage and story though, particularly if it's a lower mileage car. The main concern is that there is a lot of poorly repaired collision work out there, which can take many years to surface. Since these cars aren't cheap, you should either know what you're looking at, or have a good body shop inspect it. If it all checks out, you're left with squaring away the valuation. If the car you're looking at has been sitting for sale for months, it's likely overpriced so calibrate your offer accordingly.
Just know that accidents on Porsches can be the kiss of death for resale, if that matters to you, especially for cars that are purchased to "collect" (i.e. not drive), such as GT cars (there are exceptions, of course, but by now most aren't driven much and are true blue chip investments!!!). If the repairs were done well, and the price is fair, there's probably not much to worry about. Whatever discount you get on the purchase, you can pass on to the buyer if/when you sell, so it's a wash for the most part.
On a serious note, 25% seems a bit aggressive. I would want a substantial discount (10%-15%) for that kind of damage and story though, particularly if it's a lower mileage car. The main concern is that there is a lot of poorly repaired collision work out there, which can take many years to surface. Since these cars aren't cheap, you should either know what you're looking at, or have a good body shop inspect it. If it all checks out, you're left with squaring away the valuation. If the car you're looking at has been sitting for sale for months, it's likely overpriced so calibrate your offer accordingly.
Just know that accidents on Porsches can be the kiss of death for resale, if that matters to you, especially for cars that are purchased to "collect" (i.e. not drive), such as GT cars (there are exceptions, of course, but by now most aren't driven much and are true blue chip investments!!!). If the repairs were done well, and the price is fair, there's probably not much to worry about. Whatever discount you get on the purchase, you can pass on to the buyer if/when you sell, so it's a wash for the most part.
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#5
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In a previous lifetime I ran an autobody shop. Getting a high dollar car in means you are writing the estimate as high as they will pay for (since you dont risk totaling it out). Putting a vehicle on a frame rack is sometimes just for measurements due to bent suspension components (this is expensive). Im assuming the car is the black one from BAT. The accident looked pretty minor. Sure it broke some suspension arms but those are designed to fail rather than bend the frame.
The real question is, how long do you plan to own it? If short term, get a clean record car and hope you don't get bumped. If long term, save a few bucks and enjoy.
The real question is, how long do you plan to own it? If short term, get a clean record car and hope you don't get bumped. If long term, save a few bucks and enjoy.
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#6
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In a previous lifetime I ran an autobody shop. Getting a high dollar car in means you are writing the estimate as high as they will pay for (since you dont risk totaling it out). Putting a vehicle on a frame rack is sometimes just for measurements due to bent suspension components (this is expensive). Im assuming the car is the black one from BAT. The accident looked pretty minor. Sure it broke some suspension arms but those are designed to fail rather than bend the frame.
The real question is, how long do you plan to own it? If short term, get a clean record car and hope you don't get bumped. If long term, save a few bucks and enjoy.
The real question is, how long do you plan to own it? If short term, get a clean record car and hope you don't get bumped. If long term, save a few bucks and enjoy.
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Robocop305 (02-14-2023)
#7
Burning Brakes
The dealer's into the black one for 125 + transport...so that 130k ask is likely close to his bottom line (if not taking a loss). Sticker new was 115k. I'd pass unless you can get it for low 100s
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#8
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i think 130 for that car with sub 10k miles is pretty good all around. Will make the dealer feel its mistakes but also you get a good car that you can pack miles on and still be super low clicks.
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Robocop305 (02-14-2023)
#9
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@vma1788 Nice collection of cars. I am an original owner of a thoroughly worked 04 Evo8 RS with many autocross and track days, though still under 30k miles (because I trailer it to distant events). My hope is that my GT3, whichever one that may be, will be a take-to-the-grave car like my beloved Evo. I don't have the budget for a GT3 RS, so I'll have to settle for the Mitsubishi equivalent.
One thing that kills me off in this search is that my first Porsche was a 2010 Cayman S PDK that I bought for $40k around 2014-2015. At the time, I considered a Cayman R that was $50k and a privately owned 2007 GT3 that was $70k. I deemed both to be too expensive for me at the time and bought the Cayman S instead. Today, my old Cayman (same VIN) is listed in the Rennlist Marketplace (not by me) for $39k and the 987.2 R and 997.1 GT3 are worth...well you know...
One thing that kills me off in this search is that my first Porsche was a 2010 Cayman S PDK that I bought for $40k around 2014-2015. At the time, I considered a Cayman R that was $50k and a privately owned 2007 GT3 that was $70k. I deemed both to be too expensive for me at the time and bought the Cayman S instead. Today, my old Cayman (same VIN) is listed in the Rennlist Marketplace (not by me) for $39k and the 987.2 R and 997.1 GT3 are worth...well you know...
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Robocop305 (02-14-2023)
#10
To me, the advantage of buying a lower mileage car is hopefully the originality that accompanies that low mileage. That would mean original paint that is hopefully in very good condition, and structurally a car that hasn’t had repair work.
So with a car that has had paint and body work, the lower mileage means less to me. I’d actually take a 20k mile car that didn’t have damage repair rather than a 10k mile car with damage repair, if the price was the same.
No right or wrong answer here but if I was buying that car I’d probably want it for $115k. Since it sounds like you’re going to keep it for a long time (or forever), pay whatever you’re willing to pay given the history. Unfortunately Porsche owners seem to be some of the most particular when it comes to any sort of paint repair.
Best of luck with getting into a 997 GT3.
So with a car that has had paint and body work, the lower mileage means less to me. I’d actually take a 20k mile car that didn’t have damage repair rather than a 10k mile car with damage repair, if the price was the same.
No right or wrong answer here but if I was buying that car I’d probably want it for $115k. Since it sounds like you’re going to keep it for a long time (or forever), pay whatever you’re willing to pay given the history. Unfortunately Porsche owners seem to be some of the most particular when it comes to any sort of paint repair.
Best of luck with getting into a 997 GT3.
#11
Rennlist Member
@vma1788 Nice collection of cars. I am an original owner of a thoroughly worked 04 Evo8 RS with many autocross and track days, though still under 30k miles (because I trailer it to distant events). My hope is that my GT3, whichever one that may be, will be a take-to-the-grave car like my beloved Evo. I don't have the budget for a GT3 RS, so I'll have to settle for the Mitsubishi equivalent.
One thing that kills me off in this search is that my first Porsche was a 2010 Cayman S PDK that I bought for $40k around 2014-2015. At the time, I considered a Cayman R that was $50k and a privately owned 2007 GT3 that was $70k. I deemed both to be too expensive for me at the time and bought the Cayman S instead. Today, my old Cayman (same VIN) is listed in the Rennlist Marketplace (not by me) for $39k and the 987.2 R and 997.1 GT3 are worth...well you know...
One thing that kills me off in this search is that my first Porsche was a 2010 Cayman S PDK that I bought for $40k around 2014-2015. At the time, I considered a Cayman R that was $50k and a privately owned 2007 GT3 that was $70k. I deemed both to be too expensive for me at the time and bought the Cayman S instead. Today, my old Cayman (same VIN) is listed in the Rennlist Marketplace (not by me) for $39k and the 987.2 R and 997.1 GT3 are worth...well you know...
I feel you but (as someone who bought a GT3 and then the RS after the price surge) I couldn't afford it when they were cheap but I was able to buy one with the increase and I haven't regretted it ever. In 2019 my neighbor offered me his orange .1 RS for $110k but I had to finish my home renovations. In 2021 I paid $120k for a .1 non RS (actually a black one with 39k miles). I'll say, im VERY happy i bought each of them when I could and didn't sit around waiting for the fall of the market. Life and priorities change so i say do it when you can, you risk losing a few bucks but it wont be worth $0.
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Robocop305 (02-14-2023)
#12
Rennlist Member
Paint and body work on these cars will have less of a price impact as the car ages. You are planning to keep this car for a while so I don’t see an issue long term. Look at the older 911s, they still climbing in prices and buyers care less about paint work or body work. Off course, unless the buyer is looking for a museum piece to put away and never drive it.
#13
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Put a deposit down on the black BaT car tonight. I’m content with the negotiated price given that the car has the color and spec that I want, and about as low of miles as I could hope for in my price range. I ran photos of the damage and the body work documentation by a Porsche Approved Collision Center and they did not think I should be concerned from a functional standpoint (resale notwithstanding). The damage would have been much more problematic on a later model aluminum bodied 911 they said.
I’m going to fly to San Antonio to see it in person before having it shipped out.
Can anyone recommend a San Antonio shop for a PPI? I expect to do a bunch of maintenance after I get ir, but don’t want to inherit any glaring issues.
I’m going to fly to San Antonio to see it in person before having it shipped out.
Can anyone recommend a San Antonio shop for a PPI? I expect to do a bunch of maintenance after I get ir, but don’t want to inherit any glaring issues.
#14
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@vma1788 Nice collection of cars. I am an original owner of a thoroughly worked 04 Evo8 RS with many autocross and track days, though still under 30k miles (because I trailer it to distant events). My hope is that my GT3, whichever one that may be, will be a take-to-the-grave car like my beloved Evo. I don't have the budget for a GT3 RS, so I'll have to settle for the Mitsubishi equivalent.
One thing that kills me off in this search is that my first Porsche was a 2010 Cayman S PDK that I bought for $40k around 2014-2015. At the time, I considered a Cayman R that was $50k and a privately owned 2007 GT3 that was $70k. I deemed both to be too expensive for me at the time and bought the Cayman S instead. Today, my old Cayman (same VIN) is listed in the Rennlist Marketplace (not by me) for $39k and the 987.2 R and 997.1 GT3 are worth...well you know...
One thing that kills me off in this search is that my first Porsche was a 2010 Cayman S PDK that I bought for $40k around 2014-2015. At the time, I considered a Cayman R that was $50k and a privately owned 2007 GT3 that was $70k. I deemed both to be too expensive for me at the time and bought the Cayman S instead. Today, my old Cayman (same VIN) is listed in the Rennlist Marketplace (not by me) for $39k and the 987.2 R and 997.1 GT3 are worth...well you know...
The problem with tracking evos, you will get spoiled handling and performance wise its on par with a gt3.
I currently still own several of them and they are the best allround car sub 40k
my favourite is my evo 6 rs2 lhd it will eat gt3's for breakfast on track