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Thanks guys, this is really weird and scary-in my case, I'm unable to get the key to release, though last night I was able to briefly get the ignition on and connect Piwis, then back to dead. With my Powermax 55 amp power unit today, the battery after a charge is around 12.4 which I consider suspect. I took it off the car and I'm taking it to be replaced if it's cooked. At the beginning of this thread I posted that a dying battery created the initial meltdown, and a new battery fixed it. But by now, the switch being original and the Australian version, I will go ahead and replace it. Problem is, in my case, the metal rod procedure is not releasing the solenoid. In the video below, at the end, you can see the circuit board and locking solenoid. Some people also said taking the panel off below the steering column helps with access. The problem I have, if I can't get the key released, the plastic oval trim can't be removed because the opening is smaller than the key, I'd have to cut it and order a new one-
Late night report!!! 😂
In order of progress today:
Took the battery to Advance-put on handheld tester, it "refused" the test, and they just gave me a new one 👍
I had 17 months left on the warranty, and they offered me 12 more months for $38. So I said yes, why not, so I have 29 months to replace them 😂
Put the batt in, made dinner, came to fiddle with it and the key still stuck. I persisted with left and right, and pushing the key forward, where I could hear a clack, red airbag light and PCM come on, but no go. A bit more patience and coercion, clutch in and it started!😀
Went for a drive to reset TC and everything else. I had done a PIWIS scan last night when miraculously the ignition came on for a brief period as described last night. But from what I've seen, PIWIS can not reset TC, only a drive can.
So I took a nice drive, AC on to help dehumidify everything, drove about 30 minutes, and when I parked in the garage, turned the key off and the car kept running! 😅
So after more wiggling, it turned off. Key stuck, same condition. Tried the metal rod in the hole again, which is supposed to activate the solenoid and let the key go-but it wouldn't. I then decided to keep wiggling to the left. I started hearing the little solenoid clicking, but it was very fast, and kept locking the key in there. This went on for a good 20 minutes as I patiently fought with it click, turn, click then I was fast enough and the key slipped out!!! You can see the little solenoid which locks the key in the video I posted above. There's another video which I didn't post because it was too long, where another guy took his Boxter's ignition switch apart, and applied power to the 2 little wires that activate the little solenoid. In any case, these switches have been a problem for many people, I read pretty much all 997, 997 Turbo and Baxter threads on it. One guy had a horrible issue after replacing batt, Ignition switch, even programming keys at the dealer. They replaced his immobilizer, $1200 part so in the end the nightmare ordeal cost him over $2000 🙄
So from what I could feel, turning the key left seemed normal, but to the right it felt sticky to bring it back to the center position- so I bet my switch was falling apart inside. There are 2 springs in there, circuit board and the metal contacts. I'll remove the switch tomorrow now that the key is finally out. Had I not been able to remove the key, I would have had to cut the plastic trim ring and order a replacement one, and I'm not sure the nut that holds the switch in place would clear the key either.
Of all the forums and threads I read, I'm the only one who couldn't get the key released with the metal rod method.
So this long detailed post will probably help someone-hopefully the new switch will be it. I also cleaned all fuses on Row C with a file, and the relays I pushed and wiggled just in case.
Fingers crossed that the new switch solves the problem.
If you find yourself with the key stuck in the ignition again, you don’t need to cut the trim ring to drop the lower dash panel. You can separate the key blade from the key fob by opening up the key fob (as if you were going to change the battery) and depressing a small release switch at the base of the key blade.
Had I not been able to free the key, I would have had to cut the oval plastic trim because it wouldn’t clear the stuck key-
The plastic nut however, does clear the stuck key. I just checked it with key inserted into the new ignition switch, in case this happens to someone else:
Too hot to continue right now, after the afternoon rain into the evening it should cool off enough for me to continue
JB
Final report:
The hardest part for me was disconnecting the connector to the ignition switch.
I had planned on removing the bottom panel of the dash but it was too much of a pain. Disconnecting the clutch switch is a must to get your hand in there, but I used my finger to get the harness through the opening under the steering. Then a flat head screw driver to press the connector, and separate it. That took the longest, with humidity here your face turns into a waterfall 😅
This cheap little Led they give away at harbor freight was essential, I put it in where I could see everything. I did this at night to beat the heat, daylight would have helped.
I took the switch apart and clearly the contacts were gone. The little solenoid that holds the key can be seen, I pulled it out of its slot.
I only have 29K miles and owned the car for 10 years so I guess my switch lasted longer than some.
As mentioned, I spent days reading every thread on 997 and other groups that use the same switch-mine is the only one that wouldn’t let the key out, so I had the extra headache.
There is a thread on the 997 section where a guy replaced this switch, reprogrammed keys and nothing. Dealer found out it was the immobilizer 😑
My friend replaced his and it only cost $162 in 2016. I would shop dealers online, cheaper prices are about $278
This will eventually happen to everyone’s cars, consider it maintenance but you have to be a contortionist to install it 😂
I used a furniture blanket on the seat
Pics:
Fingers crossed that the new switch solves the problem.
If you find yourself with the key stuck in the ignition again, you don’t need to cut the trim ring to drop the lower dash panel. You can separate the key blade from the key fob by opening up the key fob (as if you were going to change the battery) and depressing a small release switch at the base of the key blade.
Yes I thought of taking the key apart but read that the spring holding the blade can fly out, and with the key stuck to the switch it would have been likely-
Thanks again
So I'm thinking congrats is in order. Even though success is not mentioned, I gonna infer that from your last post. These are the types of threads I love. Problem, Diagnose, Solve! CONGRATS!
Thanks, it was a freaky experience. Strange that the battery was also an issue, not sure what to think of it. I have purposely used the larger H8 battery since I first got the car-many opt for Antigravity batts, lightweight ones etc. But I wanted a large battery that supposedly wouldn't have any issues. I was sick with a cold for almost 2 weeks and when I drove the car and it wouldn't start it had been sitting as usual with the Ctek 7002 on the cigarette lighter like I've always had it-was this battery also defective? Hard to say, it measured 12.6 volts when I took it to get tested. Maybe the store's tester was defective, who knows-but anyway I have a new one, and this switch was a bit of a pain to install. But, I suggest to others that if the switch feels sticky when you turn it, it could be a sign that the contacts are getting like mine.
As mentioned, what freaked me out was that after reading so many threads on these switches, the one that really scared me was the immobilizer one. I couldn't sleep the other night thinking if I had to get a flatbed to tow the car, taking it to a dealer like he had to, it would have been a nightmare. GT3s are much lower than other 997s, even the Turbo isn't as low. Flatbed trucks even need ramps for a GT3, even though mine has the Front Lift option.
I'm really trying to convey what a nightmare it was turning the key left and right, trying not to panic, for almost 20 minutes at night, then the cop coming towards me when it finally started(!) This was very stressful.
I've had issues with my motorcycles on the side of the road over the years, always able to fix things and get home. Leaving this car somewhere or trying to get a flatbed at night is not a situation anyone wants 😂
Some people even have trouble with AAA member services, hours waiting to get help, disgruntled driver, these things can get crazy.
The thing is, electrical problems are the worst because it can be so many things, I even went through fuses, pushed the relays etc.
So I hope the details and pics help others-there are a lot more regular 997s than GT3s so more of these cases were listed there. It could be that their cars have an easier way to pull out the bottom of the dash as mentioned on the YouTube video's comments.
More analysis about what happened to the switch-
With alcohol on a paper towel, I wiped off the gunk to see what the metal contacts really looked like. Whatever paste it was when new(grease probably)turned into that dirty gray substance and bad contact I suppose. Not sure what kind of voltage or current it sees when operated, and I would never opt to clean/repair and put it back in the car. A guy fixing a Boxster cleaned and repaired his, there’s a YouTube video on it. And in taking this thing apart I cracked some of the plastic tabs-I only did this to analyze what the hell happened.
I’ll also find a picture of the distribution box, from where the quick release Positive cable attaches and post it here-
I posted in the beginning of this thread the procedure to clean the pin in the drunk side and spray a protectant to avoid corrosion. I would consider this part of regular maintenance once in a while. The quick release can be taken out and cleaned even with the battery in place, though it’s tight-
the distribution box is inside the car behind the bottom of the dash
Thanks for all the extra detail, @JB911 . For the old ignition switch, apart from the hassle of removing it, do you think it is worth taking apart and servicing? Seeing your photos reminded me of the head light switch on my old E36 M3 ; very similar rotor dial contact progression to activate parking lights then headlamps. I found that it could be taken apart and cleaned by focusing on the contact points and then applying dielectric grease.
08-18-2023, 01:44 PM
