JB911

Last night, at a car meeting, as I was leaving I pressed my key to deactivate the alarm and entered my car(997.2 GT3)
Put the key in the ignition and it felt like the steering was locked- car would not start, and key was stuck in the ignition. I remembered reading about stuck keys before, but it was past 10 PM and I started calling a friend to come help out. Another friend at the car show let me borrow a wrench to disconnect the battery while I tried to read up on what to do. There are many rennlist threads on the stuck key issue, and that includes 987 cars, Cayennes and even 991 cars. I asked the restaurant people for a paper clip to follow the procedure to unlock the key to release it-in a bit of a panic since it was getting late, I din't see that opening the fuse box panel, there is a factory tool metal hook to do this:


In my case, I was still able to press the button and open the frunk to disconnect the battery, to try to reset the system. Once I reconnected the battery, I fiddled some more and heard the "clack" sound, dash lights came back on and the car started. I drove straight home, did a scan with PIWIS-there are 4 VAL options:
1 Pre-VAL
2 Interim VAL
3 Post- VAL
4 Special VAL
After I did one of each VALs to be saved, I did a Vehicle Handover as well, and noticed the PIWIS car's voltage indicator dropped below 14 volts after such a long scanning period, and was around 13 volts until I did all of this, cleared codes, etc.
I'm thinking by then, my fairly new AGM H8 sized 900 amp battery might be the problem, even though it's less than 2 years old and lives with the CTEK connected. Brought it into the Advance store, they connected to test and just gave me a new one-
I think a cell started dying and the alarm system got confused, and after I did the disconnect there was just enough to start and get me home.
Many people have replaced the ignition switch, and there are a lot of posts on this issue, with many different cars- and it might still be something to do with my problem. In my case the power would not come on and the car would not start- most other posts on this are people who can't remove the key but the car still starts-

So with the new battery, 14.6 constant power supply, same PIWIS scanning procedure, the voltage never came below 14.2. I have the 55 amp model, and newer Panameras, Cayennes, Macans and 992s with so many more modules need 75 to 100 amps-I wasn't coding, which can take even longer. So getting a PIWIS with no power supply, or trying a regular low current battery charger will probably end up with catastrophic results-
Even a fairly new battery can fail or start to fail and these cars freak out with it. This Die Hard battery is AGM, made in Germany, but even with taking care of it it failed. My previous H8 Bosch also failed early years ago, and the replacement one lasted 5 years-
I've tested both keys, and as soon as it goes in, I hear the familiar "clack" sound before even turning it. But. I might still buy the ignition switch just in case since so many seem to have issues-

JB

Robocop305

This must have happened after I left. I’m glad you were able to work it out. Yes, these cars are very dependent on having a fully functional battery. Oftentimes, battery issues on these cars are misdiagnosed as other problems.

JB911

Yeah, happened just after you left-
Thought I'd have to leave the car there overnight 🤦‍♂️

Wonderdan

Yea that’s happened to me, I hooked up fuse box jump circuit and grounded to the door, then use the key fob that’s still in the ignition to pop the frunk.

I like to jump off my F250 cause I have 2 - 300 amp alternators w/dual 1200 cca.

Having the light weight lithium option I think ppl have to get very familiar with the PIWIS and jumping the car lol. But I never use it below full charge if I’m not connected to another car, and even when I’m at full charge I have a 30 amp continuous dewalt I use. I serious have no idea what can happen but the 10 warnings the PIWIS gives me about voltage I’m a tad paranoid.

flat6fan18

Is it worth it, for maybe peace of mind, to replace the ignition switch as part of ‘preventative maintenance,’ every ‘x’ number of years?

JB911

Over the years I've tackled quite a few things with the starter, cleaned all contacts, until I eventually had to replace the starter itself-starting with the positive cable quick release, and here are the pictures-Porsche subsequently got rid of the quick release, and in the regular 997 posts, some posted the DIY, which is a pain to do. I prefer to keep it clean, use scotch brite or fine sandpaper to get rid of any corrosion, spray both the post and quick release female end to protect it. This is the picture from around 2018, and periodically I disconnect and double check it. With putting in the new battery the other day, I saw that it's holding up well, and sprayed some more anti-corrosive on the surfaces.











As my original starter kept clicking over a long period, I went to clean the contacts a while back and the positive post on the solenoid just broke off-you can see the signs of failure in the copper contact after the post broke off when I loosened the 13mm nut

Starter motor replaced and I posted this on the starter DIY thread which is helpful to anyone replacing his.
The ignition switch thing is complicated, because it seems some had a genuine reason to do so, others probably didn't really need to. Years ago it appears it was a relatively cheap part, these days with "inflation" it's about $300, about the price of the starter.
What happened to mine seems to be alarm related, the battery freaked out and the car seems to have acted like the immobilizer thought it was car theft-I'm not sure, but with the battery disconnected for over 20 minutes it seems I was able to reset it. After turning the key and holding it all the way to the left, dash lights came on and the car started. Had I been at a gas station or somewhere else, this would have been cause for even more panic than in a parking lot-

So here in the 997 GT2/GT3 there are less threads on the ignition issue, at least from my initial search. I'll search some more-there are DIYs on how to replace it, and using a string to fish in the new switch from the hole itself and other tips to get the old one disconnected and removed-

I imagine many cars will need these things done-the craziest issue was the change-over valve malfunction-the one which controls the disc valve on the transmission, which allows coolant to flow once the car is warm-I did a write up on investigating this, it was very difficult to diagnose but I was able to. The change-over valve is a mere $25-$45 part, not too difficult to replace. Early failures caused confusion at dealerships 10 years ago, who replaced thermostats and other things while overlooking the change-over valve. PIWIS does not detect certain things. 991 cars had many change-over valve issues(they have 8 of them)and Porsche just replaced them all. 997s seem to have been forgotten in that regard-so expect that one to go, as it is the lowest one on the car, next to the transmission.

Also, we're all familiar with the TC and other errors when you disconnect and reconnect the battery. A drive around the block, and it resets itself-even after resetting everything, doing the VALs and Vehicle Handover with the new battery, I still had to drive around the block as usual for that to be reset 😂
So an extended drive last night shows everything ok-back in the garage I again repeatedly inserted both keys, whereby without even turning it I can hear the clack sound of it being accepted. For those following this, try it out and pay attention to the sound when you put the key in-.
I saw that FCP euro has the switch, and I suppose it's included on their lifetime replacement policy so I might go ahead and get it-

JB

JB911

I also went through the owner's manual looking for more info-after uploading these screenshots, somehow it became this very large text but here it is:


I did this synchronization procedure just in case-
And the car could post a message for "Ignition Lock Faulty"- it never appeared in my car:

Clifton

Pardon the ignorance here, but what exactly is the 4 VAL option you mention here and the Vehicle Handover?

JB911

I'll have to open up my PC laptop and go through the saved VALs to compare-
At the top right, Piwis says 13volts. This is with my 55 amp power supply connected, it pretty much confirms the battery was defective. With the new one, it says 14.2v while scanning etc-
Below is how Piwis describes the options-
New batt had a 02/2023 manufacturing date, and tested before I took it 👍



* I'm thinking, while at the car show with the alarm on, the batt dropped to 13 volts, and when I opened the car, it freaked out and thought the car was being stolen and immobilized itself. Inside the car I now recall pressing the frunk button with the remote, and I guess the alarm button too. I opened the car door from inside and the alarm went off. Disarmed it, went out and disconnected the batt for about 20 minutes while I read on my phone "key stuck in ignition" search results on rennlist- and there are a lot of them, not many if any of the 997 GT2/GT3 section-
I think that after reconnecting the batt after a period of time, turning the key all the way left, then back and fourth brought the system back to life and 13 volts was just enough to start the car and get home-

JB911

Well, went for a drive, pulled over by the bay. Went to start the car and the key felt weird. No start-key stuck 🤦‍♂️
Got the metal hook, followed procedure, nothing.


Then, kept trying to push and wiggle the key. I could hear the clack sound, but no go. Started getting really hot, even at 11 o'clock at night, swamp South FL humidity😑
Opened the frunk from the key to see if that worked, it did so I closed it. Back in the car, turned key all the way left, wiggled some more. Clacking sound, but no "ignition on"(when it is on, you can see tire pressure, fuel, etc, but in this case, no.)
PCM screen turned on and off a few times, more clack pushing the key forward. Then, luckily was able to start and drive home 😅
With engine on and AC to cool off, a cop stopped-maybe someone thought I was trying to steal the car 😂
But as I drove away he didn't come say anything. This was very frustrating-

With the car home in the garage, I connected the Ctek through the cigarette lighter as usual, tried the metal hook procedure once more, but key is stuck. With my spare key, I activated alarm with key 1 still stuck, disarmed, key still stuck. Activated alarm and so the car will sleep that way. Tomorrow I'll start looking into it, but it seems my only choice is buying the damn switch and replacing it.
There are more threads on other 997 groups, not many here on the GT2/GT3 section so I'll read some more, but what a nightmare!

RAudi Driver

Sorry to hear that the issue still exists. Subscribed to see the solution.

Metaphysician

If this is a manual, also look into the clutch pedal safety switch. I had an issue in my 997.2 Turbo where the car would struggle to start and I also couldn't remove the key. I diagnosed the switch as the problem. Cheap part and and <30 min swap, if you're agile enough to get under the dash/pedal area. Much faster starting and no more stuck key.

JB911

I'm cleaning fuse F8 on Row C, used a file to make sure contact is good. Humidity and electrical contacts...
Since the key was stuck. overnight, even with the Ctek connected it was probably draining. Volt meter indicated 12.8V which I consider a bit low-
Disconnected battery, put it on a standard charger while a clean the F8 fuse.


I don't think it has anything to do with the clutch switch. Turning the key feels strange compared to normal, and even if there's a problem with this battery, which was just replaced, I think I nee to replace the switch.
Will check the voltage now, reconnect battery and see if the switch lets go of the key. The procedure to release it with the metal hook hasn't worked-

JB911

I searched online and a few P dealers had the new switch ending in 07 for around $279. Years ago they were about $182
went to the nearby dealer, the guy there usually gives me a discount so I got it for $290 plus tax.
Very disappointing to see online places like FCP, AutohausAZ and zeCS charging $380 🤦‍♂️

I’ll probably start working on it tonight, afternoon storms cooled things down
the new switch is made in Spain instead of Austraaalia, as pointed out in other threads. Pretty soon all Porsches will be made in China 😂😂😂

JB911

I disconnected my battery and put it on my old regular charger for a few hours- it indicated 14.2 volts, but I could observe it cgoing down by .1 increments while watching the voltmeter.
I connected it again to the car, wiggled the key left and right, pressed clutch in and the starter engaged-but since I didn't want to start the car, I left it in the On position-it was on, could hear the normal chime, see the normal instrument lights, tpms, etc. I then connected my Powermax 55 amp clean power source and was able to connect PIWIS. I did a Pre-VAL and an Interim VAL and then shut Piwis down. Then tried to remove the key, saw "Key Not removed from ignition" message for a brief moment, and it went back to the problematic condition. Only thing I can see is "Key1" message 🤦‍♂️

So I'm gonna take this battery back since it's still under warranty. I spoke to a friend with a 997 Turbo who just told me a Ctek of his actually drained and damaged a battery of his.
It's pretty late, so I disconnected the batt again, voltmeter reading went down to 12.6 so it's suspicious. At the top of this thread when I created it, the new replacement battery fixed the problem-so maybe this Ctek is not maintaining, and could be it damaged the battery-
And I'm still unable to remove the key with the metal rod procedure, so I can't remove the ignition switch to put the new one in 😕