tshih

At 63,000 miles it was time to replace the rear wheel carriers and wheel bearings on my 2010 GT3. I ordered the correct parts from SuncoastPorsche including new rear hubs. The car was driven 60 miles to my mechanic working as normal (no fault codes). Unfortunately the shop made the mistake of inserting the bearings in the wrong direction so after everything was reattached I test drove the car which immediately signaled the ABS system and TC were faulty. I drove back to the shop and they cleared the fault codes and when I started to drive off the codes reappeared. So we ordered new bearings and this time we checked that they were inserted with the magnetic side going to where the ABS sensor is located. Unfortunately the codes came back immediately as before. I ordered a new pair of ABS sensors part # 997.606.407.02 and after installation the codes still pop up . I tried to clear the codes using a PIWIS -scanner and the codes keep coming back. Short of taking it into a dealership does anyone have any idea what could be the solution to this problem. I was forced to drive the car about 120 miles between running with the initial bearings inserted incorrectly and waiting for new ABS sensors to be delivered. How does the ABS/TC system in a GT3 supposed to work. The ABS sensors sends the rotational info to the ABS module which then sends that to the ECU to process and manage the TC , PSM, and ABS during driving. Does changing out the wheel bearings require some kind of reset of ABS or re-initialization of the ABS sensors?

JB911

Try disconnecting the battery to reset the system. Wait a few minutes and reconnect, then drive-there are some things even Piwis doesn't seem to reset. Perhaps this will do it, takes only a few minutes and you can do it yourself.
The shop should have paid for the new bearings, they were incompetent in installing them incorrectly. The factory service manual clearly states the direction they have to face when pressing in.

tshih

That's certainly a very good suggestion to try. I'll try it tonight. The shop did indeed got me new bearings and spent the time to reinsert them in properly.

Spyerx

If they aren't working and registering the shop didn't install them right. Have them fix it. The errors will clear when the system recognizes them. Any codes will appear in PIWIS, they have one right?

tshih

All the parts are new from Porsche and the connectors look like they can only connect one way. The other thing to try is to switch the brake pad wear sensors connectors with the ABS senors to see if they had been inadvertently be switched.Does the ABS sensor gets connected to an ABS module or does the signals detected from the spinning wheel bearings go directly to the Ecu?

lawrence1

you need to scan the codes and figure out which side is the issue to hopefully narrow it down to the correct wheel. Then go from there. or is it both wheels? what codes are you getting?

Something likely got damaged and they just haven't found it yet. Also, the new bearings could've been damaged when pressed in. interested to hear how this turns out.

JB911

There are many sensors that might throw a code but Piwis can't identify the sensor. The control-valve operating the disc valve at the transmission is one example-

Here are the directions that should be followed when pressing in the new bearings in the correct direction, using a test card 147-2(where would one get this test card?) and using the special tools:

tshih

JB911, thank you for posting the Procedure. What is test card 147-2? The shop used a magnet to test which side of the bearing was to be inserted facing the wheel sensor (which violated the bold warning of not allowing the multipole seal to come into contact with highly magnetic parts!). Also the bearings were inserted using a bearing puller tool that used an impact wrench to screw in the central rod that moves the endplate fittings together instead of a press as described by Porsche. So we may have damaged the multipole seal of the wheel bearings during installation. The DTCs displayed showed ABS brake distribution failure, TC failure and PIWIS scan did not register both rear wheel ABS sensors as connected. Last night I disconnected the battery for 10-15 min and restarted the car which immediately displayed the same fault codes saying TC failure, PSM failure, and now PASM doesn't work.

997_rich

I believe this is the type of test card they are referring to. if you hold it to the hall-effect side of the bearing you can "see" the castellation.

997_rich

tshih

Thanks, I just placed the order for it.

Vocan

Keep in mind that after disconnecting the battery these fault codes will generally pop up and you need to drive the car a short distance to clear them. If you just restarted the car without moving it then you would see them.

tshih

After reconnecting the battery, I scanned and clear all DTCs with an XTool D9 scanner then went for a short test drive. Resulting in TC-failure and PASM failure DTCs still being presented. I then hooked up a Durametric Porsche scan tool and cleared those fault codes. Have yet to test drive to see if those DTCs return.

997_rich

You're worried that the shop damaged the bearing upon installing the second time? If that's a real concern it may be time to look at another shop. This is not a complicated procedure.

The bearing puller method (using plates and rods) you described should be valid for porsche as well AS LONG AS they are pushing in the correct places on the bearing with the right size plates. The plate should push on the OUTER race (and nothing else) as they press the bearing into the housing. The plate should press on the INNER race as they press the spindle into the bearing.

You've also checked that the sensors weren't damaged the second time, right?

If all of that was done properly and you're confident that the bearing is in the correct orientation at this point (magnetic side faces the inside of car) then it's almost certainly a digital/ECU issue to solve.

JB911

If you read the factory instructions, it says to heat the carrier to 100 degrees C. That's 212 Fahrenheit.
And the bearings are most likely damaged since the test card was not used, and the magnet used likely demagnetized them.
That's an awful lot of time and labor, this shop doesn't seem qualified to do this. And another thing that comes to mind-
These GT3s have the dreaded rear caliper issue, whereby the solution is to get rid of the factory bolts and using the Cup studs or aftermarket ones.
By now they would have re-used the factory ones multiple times, might be a good idea to order the aftermarket studs and have them installed-but this shop could mess that up too.

From my experience, after disconnecting the battery, even if you clear all error codes and do a VAL and Vehicle Handover with PIWIS, you still have to drive the car to reset TC. So I always drive the car, then do a Piwis scan-

JB