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2007 GT3, dead battery, battery maintainer @ cigar measures 6v and battery refuses to charge 12v from cigar maintainer . Pulled out driver side hood fuse, applied 12v (using small handheld lithium battery booster) to fuse with ground at door striker and nothing. Used key as well as door lever and hood release fails to open hood. I can get dash to light up but just clicks trying to start car. Not enough voltage to release hood.
Patrick This is how i found fuse area once cover removed. Used low current pigtail to positive terminal of spare RV lithium battery. No need to use high current battery jumpers. In my year model GT3 hood popped via the floor switch lever. Found battery at just 7.6 volts. Charging now with Stanley auto charging and dead battery is drawing chargers full 40amps ! Only 2yo DieHard battery. After 5min of 40 amp draw battery charger shuts off ! Battery now at 10.5v and winter accept full charging, so it's perhaps dead. I'll try and get refund/exchange later today. Maybe charger shuts off after 40amp 5 min draw and hopefully charger will continue to again charge ? I'll keep updates posted. Many thanks P-car forum friends.
Advance Auto gave me new battery. 12mo old battery kapput. Getting dead battery out was difficult, 1x 13mm hold down metal strap, 4x 13mm plate bolts and both terminals are 10mm. Next time it fails i'm going lithium.
Last edited by C4S993; 12-24-2023 at 12:09 PM.
Reason: You guys are amazing, hood opened !
When my battery died I tried to use a small booster on the fuse like you did but found it didn't work either. Did the same with a spare full size battery and booster cables to the fuse and it worked.
I’m sure you guys already did this but it’s not clear so I’ll add.
The voltage clip on the fuse box “when also grounded to the car” only releases the hood with the key fob, not the pull lever next to the seat.
I’ve got 2 different portable battery boosters (one large dewalt and one smaller) and neither produce voltage that the little clip likes, I almost always use a car or another battery as stated already.
I suspect the small lithium booster battery i used failed to energize that red fuse gizmo as handheld battery wants to see another battery to put out 12v.
Today ill try using an actual size donar 12v battery.
Patrick
When my battery died I tried to use a small booster on the fuse like you did but found it didn't work either. Did the same with a spare full size battery and booster cables to the fuse and it worked.
I think you nailed it; that red fuse carrier (hood release fuse) once pulled out wants to see a true car battery to energize that red front hood fuse.
Ill try that today using true car donar battery.
Patrick
PS: love the 997 GT3 but over the years it's ate numerous batteries. I keep it unlocked in garage but battery weakens somehow from parasitic voltage drain. Can those door red flashers cause battery drain ?
That's why I keep my battery charger pigtail sticking out at the wipers. Last time I was able to hook up my charger to tail and it worked. The time before I had to remove that left wheel and pull the cable.
Last edited by RAudi Driver; 12-24-2023 at 12:18 PM.
19182487[/url]]When my battery died I tried to use a small booster on the fuse like you did but found it didn't work either. Did the same with a spare full size battery and booster cables to the fuse and it worked.
I had a reversed experience. I used a well charged battery with no luck. Ended up listing the help of a local P specialist who came with a proper booster and after fiddling for quite some time he finally managed to open it. To be completely fair my battery was more than dead, charging it with Ctek through the cig lighter for several days didn’t do anything. Must have been like having a short.
Now I have a Li battery that turns off when charge go below x and can be (de)activated via bluetooth.
I had a reversed experience. I used a well charged battery with no luck. Ended up listing the help of a local P specialist who came with a proper booster and after fiddling for quite some time he finally managed to open it. To be completely fair my battery was more than dead, charging it with Ctek through the cig lighter for several days didn’t do anything. Must have been like having a short.
Now I have a Li battery that turns off when charge go below x and can be (de)activated via bluetooth.
That's why I keep my battery charger pigtail sticking out at the wipers. Las time I was Abe to hook up my charger to that and it worked. The time before I had to remove that left wheel and pul the cable.
wiper area exit for battery maintainer. Great idea, does cable pinch much ?
patrick
the fusebox 12v supply post is finnicky, it requires strong voltage (at least 13v) and remember you have to hold down the trunk release on the key, not the car - i believe this is an anti-theft feature. also you may need to fiddle/wiggle the ground on the door hinge to get it to actually contact.
i finally just got fed up with it and bought a noco genius 10 and a noco lithium booster and added a new power drop in my garage and this hasn't been a problem. it will jump the fusebox at full voltage and recondition a completely dead battery through the cig plug. the noco booster will crank at least 20 times when you finally get the damn thing open if you still need to boost it. i leave the genius plugged into the cig lighter now through a cracked window. the booster is awesome on manual hood release cars. literally just takes 10 seconds.
this aggravating design has cost me hours of my life and a lot of swearing over the years lol.
also do yourself a favor and keep a tool in the glovebox that is able to unlock the ignition switch. that thing will get stuck when you're trying to re-energize the car. and you will guaranteed drop the little plastic cover and spend 20 minutes trying to find it !!!
Last edited by chiffonade; 12-24-2023 at 10:41 AM.
the fusebox 12v supply post is finnicky, it requires strong voltage (at least 13v) and remember you have to hold down the trunk release on the key, not the car - i believe this is an anti-theft feature. also you may need to fiddle/wiggle the ground on the door hinge to get it to actually contact.
i finally just got fed up with it and bought a noco genius 10 and a noco lithium booster and added a new power drop in my garage and this hasn't been a problem. it will jump the fusebox at full voltage and recondition a completely dead battery through the cig plug. the noco booster will crank at least 20 times when you finally get the damn thing open if you still need to boost it. i leave the genius plugged into the cig lighter now through a cracked window. the booster is awesome on manual hood release cars. literally just takes 10 seconds.
this aggravating design has cost me hours of my life and a lot of swearing over the years lol.
also do yourself a favor and keep a tool in the glovebox that is able to unlock the ignition switch. that thing will get stuck when you're trying to re-energize the car. and you will guaranteed drop the little plastic cover and spend 20 minutes trying to find it !!!
On my '07 GT3 the floor hood open lever worked; but I had the key fob in just in case.
I had a reversed experience. I used a well charged battery with no luck. Ended up listing the help of a local P specialist who came with a proper booster and after fiddling for quite some time he finally managed to open it. To be completely fair my battery was more than dead, charging it with Ctek through the cig lighter for several days didn’t do anything. Must have been like having a short.
Now I have a Li battery that turns off when charge go below x and can be (de)activated via bluetooth.
12-23-2023, 06:45 PM
'07 GT3 refuses to open hood; dead battery.
