997.2 3RS- I should have never driven one…
#31
Rennlist Member
#32
I know a lot of folks here have done just R&P. I think @HarmonyJim and maybe @christallon have both done this on their Pumpkins.
The following 3 users liked this post by JpCrp:
#33
Rennlist Member
I have the 7.2GT3 with the RS drivetrain which includes the shorter RS gearing with the 3.89R/P, taller 6th, and the RS 4.0LWFW clutch set up. This is the way these cars should have come from the factory. Prior to the RS drivetrain conversion, I found the car utterly boring and rarely drove it. Now I absolutely love it. With the side muffler delete, lightweight bucket seats and a lightweight LiOn battery it's just about the perfect light and nimble street / track car. The non RS 7.2 body without the large RS rear wing and overt stickers is a more understated, some would say, prettier sleeker body. I really love this car as a fun weekend car. I doubt I'll ever sell this one. For track and racing I have a much faster dedicated 996.
The following 2 users liked this post by ScottArizona:
cavlino (01-18-2024),
changster123 (01-18-2024)
#34
Rennlist Member
I need a big track to get up to 190mph haha!
Luckily, I bought a great car which had the cam bolts addressed. I couldn't buy it fast enough once i had the full service records. RS 4.0 Steer wheel, LWFW and clutch, coolant lines pinned, cam bolts repair done, 5 lug conversion.
If I am not mistaken, gear ratios are the same between the 3.8 and the 3.8 RS. Back in the DE days, the proper way to maximize gearing was to move 5th gear to 6th, and replace 3-5. But imo that's overkill. Only the RP is different. RS is 3.89. If you are planning on doing the RS ring and pinion, I would suggest upgrading the rear diff. I had a cup car diff and was quite happy with it. No more tail wiggle under braking. Or do Guards
And not to complicate it even more, but if you have the 4.0 clutch/lwfw, maybe plan on a dampener to avoid the loosening of cam sprockets. Or just yours and retighten. There is an harmonic issue when you go with the clutch flywheel package. I was skeptical in the beginning but have heard more than enough stories of loose cam bolts than I would get the dampener just in case. Or lock tight the **** out of the existing ones
And not to complicate it even more, but if you have the 4.0 clutch/lwfw, maybe plan on a dampener to avoid the loosening of cam sprockets. Or just yours and retighten. There is an harmonic issue when you go with the clutch flywheel package. I was skeptical in the beginning but have heard more than enough stories of loose cam bolts than I would get the dampener just in case. Or lock tight the **** out of the existing ones
#35
With the shorter r&p, usually recommended to swap sixth gear to at least the RS gear ratio so you aren't running at 3500 rpm on the highway. There's been some talk of even swapping to the sixth gear from the 997 Turbo, which should drop the freeway rpm even more. These cars already sit fairly high on the tach at 75+ mph so it may be beneficial for cruising.
If you're already going through the effort to pull the trans you might as well tackle the sixth gear at the same time given the relatively low increased cost from the r&p swap alone. Beats not doing it and then having to pull the trans again if it ends up bugging you.
If you're already going through the effort to pull the trans you might as well tackle the sixth gear at the same time given the relatively low increased cost from the r&p swap alone. Beats not doing it and then having to pull the trans again if it ends up bugging you.
The following users liked this post:
cavlino (01-18-2024)
#36
The following 2 users liked this post by powdrhound:
changster123 (01-18-2024),
Steve Theodore (01-18-2024)
#37
Labor on top of that obviously. I did the Guard LSD clutches while it was all apart. The clutches are about $1200 if I recall.
Last edited by powdrhound; 01-17-2024 at 07:10 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by powdrhound:
cavlino (01-18-2024),
changster123 (01-18-2024)
#38
In summary, to get the RS drivetrain in the non RS car, install the 3.89RP, taller 6th, and the LWFW clutch package. Done.
Last edited by powdrhound; 01-17-2024 at 07:16 PM.
The following 5 users liked this post by powdrhound:
cavlino (01-18-2024),
changster123 (01-18-2024),
jreifler (01-18-2024),
Robocop305 (01-18-2024),
Steve Theodore (01-18-2024)
#39
The following 2 users liked this post by powdrhound:
cavlino (01-18-2024),
changster123 (01-18-2024)
#40
Has anyone modified 2nd and 3rd gear as well? The stock drop between 1st and 2nd isn't great on the street or auto-x. I saw Albins has some other ratios available.
This chart below is with a modified 2nd,3rd, and GT2 6th w/ the RS R/P.
This chart below is with a modified 2nd,3rd, and GT2 6th w/ the RS R/P.
Last edited by 00 Scrub; 01-17-2024 at 09:41 PM.
#41
Rennlist Member
can't even imagine how that thing drives. I drove a stock 996 gt3 recently and was blown away with how awesome it was. In some ways, i like it better than my 997.2 GT3. The only downside for me is the looks but outside of that it's an amazing car and probably a much better value than a 997 GT3. had i driven one sooner, I would've likely bought one instead of mine.
The following 3 users liked this post by lawrence1:
#42
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Massachusetts and California
Posts: 3,384
Received 2,305 Likes
on
1,265 Posts
I heard adding a LWFW to a GT3 can damage the engine. Believe they stated it in the manual and voided the warranty if one was installed.
#43
Rennlist Member
If you do lwfw, just have to be smart and do preventative maintenance.
The following 2 users liked this post by The Greek:
changster123 (01-19-2024),
Robocop305 (01-18-2024)
#44
Rennlist Member
Scott, you may have covered this back when you did it but do you mind reminding us what it cost to get your engine turned into a 3.9L?
#45
Rennlist Member
Since we've completely hijacked the poor OP's original thread for re-gearing talk, I'll keep it going . . .
Seems like folks are primarily only doing 6th and 3.8/4/0 R+P. No shorter 2-5? Why or why not ? Certainly in favor of the cheaper solution if that's all we need to convert 7.1, non-RS 7.2 to the way it "should be."
Seems like folks are primarily only doing 6th and 3.8/4/0 R+P. No shorter 2-5? Why or why not ? Certainly in favor of the cheaper solution if that's all we need to convert 7.1, non-RS 7.2 to the way it "should be."